Wisteria floribunda f. multijuga
Japanese wisteria ( syn. Wisteria Macrobotrys )
Often considered one of the most spectacular wisterias, multijuga produces extravagantly long clusters of lightly scented, bicoloured flowers,...
3 litre pot | 60cm cane | grafted
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5 litre pot | 1.5m cane | grafted
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Plant description
Often considered one of the most spectacular wisterias, multijuga produces extravagantly long clusters of lightly scented, bicoloured flowers, which typically appear in late spring or early summer - at around the same time as the pinnate foliage starts to unfurl. The pale violet and deeper purple, pea-like flowers are very beautiful, so the plant really creates an impressive display when it's grown over a robust pergola or trained against a sunny wall.
This plant has been vegetatively propagated, so will flower earlier than those grown from seed.
This plant has been vegetatively propagated, so will flower earlier than those grown from seed.
Eventual height & spread
Flowering period
- Jan
- Feb
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
- Dec
Plant features
Position
Full sun
Rate of growth
Fast-growing
Soil
Moderately fertile, moist, well-drained soil
Hardiness
Fully hardy
How to care for Wisteria floribunda f. multijuga:
To get lots of flowers, the twining stems need pruning twice a year - once in summer (about two months after the flowering has finished) and again in mid-winter. To train your wisteria against a wall, the wall will first need a network of stout horizontal wires, attached at approximately 30cm intervals. After planting, prune the leading shoot of your wisteria back to approximately 90cm above ground level and remove any side branches as this will encourage a strong new leader to form. In the summer of the first growing season, tie the leader in vertically and choose two new lateral shoots on either side of the leader. Tie these onto the wires at a 45 degree angle. Any smaller shoots coming from these lateral branches should be cut back to two or three buds. In the first winter, cut back the leader to a bud approximately 75cm above the highest lateral branch. Gently untie the lateral branches and prune them back by about a third, then re-tie them onto a wire so they are nearly horizontal. In subsequent summers (and until the plant has filled the allotted space), tie in the leader as it grows and choose two strong laterals to form the next tier. These should then be tied in at a 45 degree angle and as in the previous year, any smaller shoots coming from these should be cut back to two or three buds. In subsequent winters cut back the leading shoot as before and cut back and re-tie the new laterals to a near-horizontal position. The older laterals can be cut back by about a third of their total length. Once the plant has become established and reached the desired height, keep tying in the lateral stems as they spread out. In summer, cut back the wispy stems on both the laterals and sub-laterals (the side shoots from the laterals) to about five or six buds from the main branches. In winter, cut back these stems even harder to within two or three buds of the main branches. These form the short spurs that will go on to produce flowers in the following spring.
Please note:
This climber is deciduous so it will lose all its leaves in autumn, then fresh new foliage appears again each spring.
Warning
Humans/Pets: Harmful if eaten
GOES WELL WITH
Mediterranean
Mediterranean gardens can take on various guises from the rustic and rambling to the formal elegance of an Italian courtyard. However, they all have key features in common, including the use of exotic, sometimes tender, drought-tolerant plants in pots and
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