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apple 'Red Windsor'
eating / dessert apple
This apple is perfect for smaller gardens as you don't need another tree to produce a bumber crop of superbly flavoured...
12 litre pot | M27 | top worked at 70cm
In stock (delivery within 3-4 working days)
12 litre pot | MM106 root stock | 1m
In stock (delivery within 3-4 working days)
9 litre pot | M26 root stock | 1.5m
available to order from late spring
9 litre pot | M27 root stock | 1.8m
available to order from late spring
bare root | M27 root stock | 1.2m tall
available to order from late spring
bare root | M26 root stock | 1.2m
available to order from late spring
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Delivery options
Plant description
This apple is perfect for smaller gardens as you don't need another tree to produce a bumber crop of superbly flavoured deep red fruits, which will be ready to eat in September. 'Red Windsor' will be happy in a large pot, as long as it is kept well fed and watered, and it has a good resistance to many of the common diseases.
If you choose the top worked option, the crown of this small tree has been grafted onto the upright stem of the rootstock at a height of 70cm, which will limit the eventual height. Perfect for a small garden or growing in a large pot with a loam-based (John Innes) compost.
Pollination information: This apple belongs to pollination group 2, however it is partially self fertile, so does not need a pollinating partner to produce a crop of apples. For a bumper crop, it can be cross-pollinated with other apples in this group.
If you choose the top worked option, the crown of this small tree has been grafted onto the upright stem of the rootstock at a height of 70cm, which will limit the eventual height. Perfect for a small garden or growing in a large pot with a loam-based (John Innes) compost.
Eventual height & spread
Flowering period
- Jan
- Feb
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
- Dec
Plant features
Position
Full sun
Rate of growth
Average
Soil
Moderately fertile, moist, well-drained soil
Hardiness
Fully hardy
How to care for apple Red Windsor:
When planting your apple tree, prepare a hole up to three times the diameter of its root system. Fork over the base of the pit in readiness, incorporating plenty of organic matter into the backfill and planting hole. Place the plant in the planting hole and carefully refill, firming the soil around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Insert stake at this point if required.
Avoiding frozen and waterlogged soil, trees should be planted out as they arrive. If you've ordered a bare root tree, soak the roots in a bucket of water for half an hour prior to planting - or if this is not possible, they can be heeled in temporarily, covering their roots with soil, or potted up.
Keep the base of the tree weed free, fertilise at the beginning of each year water regularly during hot, dry spells.
The main prune should be done in the winter as long as it isn't frosty or freezing. Take out the 3D’s (dead, dying and diseased wood) and create an open shape. Then reduce the leaders back by a third. Aim to create an airy structure without any crisscrossing branches.
In August summer prune. Shorten any side shoots (or laterals) which are longer than 20cm back to three leaves. This will allow the sun to ripen the fruit and encourage more fruit buds. Make sure that the growth you’re cutting away feels firm to the touch.
Avoiding frozen and waterlogged soil, trees should be planted out as they arrive. If you've ordered a bare root tree, soak the roots in a bucket of water for half an hour prior to planting - or if this is not possible, they can be heeled in temporarily, covering their roots with soil, or potted up.
Keep the base of the tree weed free, fertilise at the beginning of each year water regularly during hot, dry spells.
The main prune should be done in the winter as long as it isn't frosty or freezing. Take out the 3D’s (dead, dying and diseased wood) and create an open shape. Then reduce the leaders back by a third. Aim to create an airy structure without any crisscrossing branches.
In August summer prune. Shorten any side shoots (or laterals) which are longer than 20cm back to three leaves. This will allow the sun to ripen the fruit and encourage more fruit buds. Make sure that the growth you’re cutting away feels firm to the touch.
Please note:
This plant is deciduous so it will lose all its leaves in autumn, then fresh new foliage appears again each spring.
