Gardening Jobs for February

Garden Designer Lucy Willcox

Written by: Ashley Edwards

Three jobs for February in the garden

February can be an exciting time in the garden, if you look close enough! Snowdrops up and flowering, hellebores are taking centre stage and the sweet scent of winter flowering shrubs fills the air. When the sun is shining you could almost imagine that spring has already arrived!

Cutting back perennials & ornamental grasses

February is a great time to begin cutting back herbaceous perennials to make space for spring bulbs to emerge, but if you leave pruning too late you risk accidentally removing new growth along with the old. Before you prune, check that no heavy frosts are forecast, look out for overwintering insects (leaving any stems that are housing creatures until March), and prune carefully as fresh growth may already be starting to appear.


The tools you select should be comfortable to use, appropriate for the scale of cutting back you’re doing, clean and sharp. Secateurs are great for individual plants and grasses, a scythe works for large clumps of grass like Miscanthus, and if you have a whole grass garden, you could even use a strimmer. Some herbaceous plants, like Verbascum for example, form very woody old stems and you may need to use a pair of loppers.

When it comes to cutting grasses back, your technique will depend on whether they are evergreen or deciduous:


Deciduous grasses - these can be cut down to 5-10cm above ground level and include Miscanthus, Pennisetum, Molinia, Panicum and Calamagrostis.

Evergreen/semi evergreen grasses - should be combed either using your hands (make sure you wear gloves!) or a hand rake or comb. These include Stipa tenuissima, Festuca glauca, Carex, Luzula and Sesleria.

Avoid cutting your grasses back in very wet weather as this can cause your plant to rot. If the clump has been in the ground for several years and is looking bare, you can rejuvenate it by digging it up and dividing in spring.

To help wildlife, cut back in stages so any insects can have a chance to hide in another patch of the garden. If you can leave an area until spring arrives, even better. You could also leave some stems standing throughout the garden. Hollow stems are particularly good for overwintering insects and pithy stems are great for hibernating solitary bees. The greater the diversity in your garden, the healthier it will ultimately be and so try to mimic nature where you can. I recently learnt at the Wilding Gardens conference that Knepp cuts plants back at different heights and times to imitate natural grazing by herbivores.

Dahlia tubers - What to do when they arrive?

Starting your dahlias off right will make all the difference come summertime.

When your dahlias arrive, carefully unpackage them straight away and make sure they haven't been damaged in transit. The tubers may look dry and slightly wrinkly, but this is perfectly normal, they are full of potential. If you can't pot up your tuber straight away, then keep them somewhere dry, cool but frost free.

Pot your tubers up as soon as possible in a free draining compost. Use a 2-3 litre pot depending on the size of your tuber. You don’t want the tubers swimming in compost or they can rot, it’s better to start small and work your way up. You should plant your dahlias with the neck of the old stem just above the compost level, this is where the new shoots will form.


Place the pots somewhere bright, cool and frost-free: a greenhouse, cold frame or sunny windowsill. Water lightly at first as they rot far more easily than they dry out at this stage. Once shoots appear, you can increase watering and even pinch the first tips to encourage bushier plants. When all risk of frost has passed, harden them off and plant them out.

Dahlia Tubers

Cutting back Buddleja

Buddleja is also known as butterfly bush and in the summer this becomes apparent as every flower is covered in the winged beauties. You’ve probably seen Buddleja growing in abandoned places and witness how unruly they can become if left to their own devices. Pruning is key to creating a healthy plant with plenty of flowers, suitable for the garden setting.

These hardy, deciduous shrubs flower on new growth and at the tips of stems, for this reason they should be cut back hard in February to encourage flowering. Start by using secateurs or loppers to take out any dead, damaged or crossing branches. Once you can see the healthy structure of your plant you can start to prune it into shape. Take all the branches back above a healthy outward facing bud, creating a low framework around 30-50cm from the ground. You should be aiming for a goblet like structure, similar to rose pruning, where air can easily pass through the centre of the shrub.


This may feel drastic but it will produce strong stems with lots of flowers that will be at eye level rather than way overhead where you can’t appreciate them, or the butterflies that visit. Once you have finished you can mulch your plant using a garden compost which will provide a slow release of nutrients during the growing period.