Rosa 'Climbing Iceberg'

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Rosa 'Climbing Iceberg'

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Intro offer: 30% off
4lt (climbing rose) £19.99 £13.99
in stock
Quantity 1 Plus Minus
<ul><li><b>Position:</b> full sun<li><b>Soil:</b> fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil<li><b>Rate of growth:</b> fast-growing<li><b> Flowering period:</b> June to September<li><b>Hardiness:</b> fully hardy<br><br>Sprays of double, slightly fragrant, creamy or pure white flowers from June to September and masses of mid-green leaves. This repeat-flowering, climbing rose looks gorgeous silhouetted against a sunny house or garden wall. One of the most reliable climbers, as long as the faded blooms are regularly removed it will continue flowering into autumn.<br><br>All our roses are grown in an open field and then dug up when the weather conditions are right in October or November. Some suppliers send out their roses as 'bare root' plants (ie without pots or compost), but we pot ours up as it helps to keep the roots hydrated and in good condition. As they are dormant throughout the winter, they will not produce any new roots until spring, so don't be surprised if the compost falls away from the roots when you take them out of their pots. The roses can be kept in their pots throughout the winter provided they are kept well fed and watered, however ideally they should planted out as soon as possible. They will already have been cut back so no further pruning will be required, apart from snipping off any tips that have died back. Routine pruning can begin in late winter the year after planting.<br><br><li><b>Garden care:</b> If planting in winter, choose a frost-free spell when the soil is not frozen. Roses are quite deep-rooted plants so dig a deep hole roughly twice as wide as the plants roots and mix in a generous amount of composted organic matter. A top-dressing of a general purpose fertiliser can be worked into the surrounding soil and we also recommend using Rose Rootgrow at this stage to encourage better root development. This is particularly important when planting into a bed where roses have previously been grown as Rose Rootgrow is said to combat rose sickness (aka. replant disease). Before planting you will also need to make sure that there is adequate support for the rose to grow onto.<br><br> Remove the plants from their pots and gently spread out the roots before placing them in the centre of the hole. Try to ensure that the 'bud union' (the point where the cultivated rose has been grafted onto the rootstock, and from where the shoots emerge) is at soil level. You can judge this quite easily by laying something flat, like a spade handle or bamboo cane, across the top of the hole. When they are at the right height, back-fill the hole, firming the soil down gently before watering the plant well. Tie the stems to the support in and open fan shape and as new shoots emerge, tie these in horizontally, as this will encourage flowering shoots to form nearer the base.<br><br>When planting against a large tree, dig a hole about a metre away from the trunk and angle the rose towards the trunk. The tree must be mature and strong enough to take the weight of the rose. Or you can train the rose up to the crown of branches, using wooden supports. In this case the rose should be planted on the outer reaches of the tree's canopy. Allow it to scramble up the supports and then into your chosen tree.<br><br>Water generously until well established, and apply a specialist rose fertiliser (following the manufacturers instructions) each spring. They will also benefit from a generous mulch of composted farmyard manure in spring, but make sure this is kept away from the stems.<br><br>From late autumn to late winter, pop on a pair of tough gloves and remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems. Tie in new stems and and shorten the side-shoots of any flowered stems by up to two thirds. When the plants become congested, remove one or two of the oldest stems, cutting them right back to their base. Climbing roses usually respond well to hard pruning, so those that have become very overgrown can be renovated from late autumn to late winter. First remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems completely. Keeping from four to six young stems, cut all the others right back to their base. Shorten the side shoots on the remaining stems by up to a half and tie these onto the support.</li></ul>

  • Position: full sun
  • Soil: fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil
  • Rate of growth: fast-growing
  • Flowering period: June to September
  • Hardiness: fully hardy

    Sprays of double, slightly fragrant, creamy or pure white flowers from June to September and masses of mid-green leaves. This repeat-flowering, climbing rose looks gorgeous silhouetted against a sunny house or garden wall. One of the most reliable climbers, as long as the faded blooms are regularly removed it will continue flowering into autumn.

    All our roses are grown in an open field and then dug up when the weather conditions are right in October or November. Some suppliers send out their roses as 'bare root' plants (ie without pots or compost), but we pot ours up as it helps to keep the roots hydrated and in good condition. As they are dormant throughout the winter, they will not produce any new roots until spring, so don't be surprised if the compost falls away from the roots when you take them out of their pots. The roses can be kept in their pots throughout the winter provided they are kept well fed and watered, however ideally they should planted out as soon as possible. They will already have been cut back so no further pruning will be required, apart from snipping off any tips that have died back. Routine pruning can begin in late winter the year after planting.

  • Garden care: If planting in winter, choose a frost-free spell when the soil is not frozen. Roses are quite deep-rooted plants so dig a deep hole roughly twice as wide as the plants roots and mix in a generous amount of composted organic matter. A top-dressing of a general purpose fertiliser can be worked into the surrounding soil and we also recommend using Rose Rootgrow at this stage to encourage better root development. This is particularly important when planting into a bed where roses have previously been grown as Rose Rootgrow is said to combat rose sickness (aka. replant disease). Before planting you will also need to make sure that there is adequate support for the rose to grow onto.

    Remove the plants from their pots and gently spread out the roots before placing them in the centre of the hole. Try to ensure that the 'bud union' (the point where the cultivated rose has been grafted onto the rootstock, and from where the shoots emerge) is at soil level. You can judge this quite easily by laying something flat, like a spade handle or bamboo cane, across the top of the hole. When they are at the right height, back-fill the hole, firming the soil down gently before watering the plant well. Tie the stems to the support in and open fan shape and as new shoots emerge, tie these in horizontally, as this will encourage flowering shoots to form nearer the base.

    When planting against a large tree, dig a hole about a metre away from the trunk and angle the rose towards the trunk. The tree must be mature and strong enough to take the weight of the rose. Or you can train the rose up to the crown of branches, using wooden supports. In this case the rose should be planted on the outer reaches of the tree's canopy. Allow it to scramble up the supports and then into your chosen tree.

    Water generously until well established, and apply a specialist rose fertiliser (following the manufacturers instructions) each spring. They will also benefit from a generous mulch of composted farmyard manure in spring, but make sure this is kept away from the stems.

    From late autumn to late winter, pop on a pair of tough gloves and remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems. Tie in new stems and and shorten the side-shoots of any flowered stems by up to two thirds. When the plants become congested, remove one or two of the oldest stems, cutting them right back to their base. Climbing roses usually respond well to hard pruning, so those that have become very overgrown can be renovated from late autumn to late winter. First remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems completely. Keeping from four to six young stems, cut all the others right back to their base. Shorten the side shoots on the remaining stems by up to a half and tie these onto the support.

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Eventual height & spread

"Stronger and more flower-packed than ordinary non-climbing ‘Iceberg’ - with clusters of rhubarb-pink buds set on rhubarb pink stems topped by warm-white floribunda roses - a soft combination"

I bought this rose from you last year and although it has put on a lot of growth,I have been tying it in laterally and it has sent up new shoots spectactularly it has only produced 3 or 4 blooms. What am i doing wrong?

rock gardener

Hello, The most likely causes for a lack of flowers are either not enough sun or feeding it with the wrong thing. Fertilisers that are high in nitrogen will encourage the plant to put on leafy growth, while high potash feeds encourage the production of flowers. Ideally, roses should be fed with a specialist rose fertiliser which will have just the right balance.

Helen

hi there,i wonder if you can help me , i bought this climbing white iceberg from yourselves about two years ago for my trellis arch and it seems to be going all wrong, the rose has developed blackspot(which i am treating)it seems to have lost most of its foilage and the climbing stems have went wild( theyre not growing in the direction i want)they seem to be growing everywhere but over the trellis arch intended .can you help with any advice ie:would it be best to cut it down to the crown and start again(would that work?)or just get rid and buy a more suitable veriaty thank you for any help you can give

jinxygg

Hello, Many roses (including climbing Iceberg) are susceptible to blackspot. This is a fungal disease that is spread by wind and rain and usually causes leaf spotting and yellowing and eventually defoliation. To keep it under control, you should cut back any stems that have lesions in spring and collect all the fallen leaves. You should also spray with a suitable fungicide (Westland Plant Rescue Fungus Control, Bayer Garden Systhane Fungus Fighter, Bayer Garden Multirose Concentrate 2 and Scotts Fungus Clear Ultra), ideally alternating their application as the disease has the ability to become resistant to just one treatment. It is also worth keeping in mind that a rose that is kept well fed and watered is less likely to succumb, so do make sure it gets the best treatment. As for the wayward stems, they will need to be tied onto the support to prevent them going awol.

helen

Is this rose suitable for growing in a large container?

Marc

Morning Ideally climbing roses would prefer to be grown in the ground, but this is one of the smaller climbers so it could be grown in a container, - it still may grow to approx 2m x 3m, so will need to be kept well watered and fed. It will need a large pot, with a loam-based compost like John Innes No 3 mixed in with some multi-purpose compost or a very well-rotted manure for richness. Roses in containers will use up their food reserves quickly so may need to be fed with a granular rose fertiliser, and not allowed to dry out otherwise they can become prone to powdery mildew. Hope this helps

Georgina

Do you keep a history of orders? Do you keep a history of orders? I placed an order last year in the autumn for two rose climbers ( one red and one white) however I have lost the names of them and would like some info "care instructions" Please could you help Many thanks Sharon

Sharon Stiefel

Helen, that's very helpful Many thanks

Sharon Stiefel

Hello Sharon, I have checked your order history and can see that you have purchased Rosa Climbing Etoile de Hollande and Rosa Climbing Iceberg. If you click on the following links it will take you to lots of useful information. Rosa Climbing Etoile de Hollande http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/roses/climber-rose/plcid.8/plcid.11/vid.14/ Rosa Climbing Iceberg http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/roses/climber-rose/plcid.8/plcid.11/vid.12/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

Crocus Helpdesk

Which Roses will still be flowering in September? I am getting married in September and want to give my parents a present to say thanks for all their help. I thought a rose bush would be a really good idea as it should last a long time and will remind them of the day. Ideally I would like to present it to them in flower on and would like it to have white flowers. Any suggestions?

Susan Genever

There are some lovely roses that should still be flowering in September - although ultimately this will largely be dependent on the weather. Below are the white ones we sell that would make a lovely gift, just click on the link below each plant name to find out more about that particular one. Rosa Rambling Rector' http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?ContentType=Plant_Card&amp;ClassID=1282&amp;CategoryID=8 'Rosa Boule de Neige' http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?ContentType=Plant_Card&amp;ClassID=2000002339&amp;CategoryID=8 'Rosa Ice Cream' http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?ContentType=Plant_Card&amp;ClassID=1232&amp;CategoryID=8 'Rosa Winchester Cathedral' http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?ContentType=Plant_Card&amp;ClassID=2000002354&amp;CategoryID=8 >'Rosa Polar Star' http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?ContentType=Plant_Card&amp;ClassID=1242&amp;CategoryID=8 'Rosa Blanche Double de Coubert' http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?ContentType=Plant_Card&amp;ClassID=77824&amp;CategoryID=8 'Rosa Climbing Iceberg' http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?ContentType=Plant_Card&amp;ClassID=1181&amp;CategoryID=8 'Rosa Iceberg' http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?ContentType=Plant_Card&amp;ClassID=2375&amp;CategoryID=8

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