did not survive winter - disappointing
1
Very disappointing. Very little growth in the first few months in spite of care during planting, and the only plant in my garden that did not survive the Winter
Frank
London
Hydrangea paniculata 'Silver Dollar'
hydrangea
2 litre pot
in stock
This shrub is deciduous so it will lose all its leaves in autumn, then fresh new foliage appears again each spring.
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: moist, well-drained, moderately fertile, humus-rich soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: August to September
- Hardiness: fully hardy
Dense trusses of creamy-white flowers open from the base of the spike from midsummer to early autumn and gradually become pinker as they age. This compact hydrangea is ideal for adding late colour to the shrub border and the flower-heads can be picked for dried arrangements. - Garden care: To enhance flowering prune hard in early spring, cut back the previous season's shoots to within a few buds of the permanent, woody framework of the plant.
Eventual height & spread
Goes well with
Vitax hydrangea feed
£5.99Hydrangea paniculata'Silver Dollar'
1.0
1
0.0
- Is it advise able to replace a viburnum with one of the same species? My 30 year old v sergeantii onondaga has died, apparently of old age. Could I put another in the same spot? If not please advise alternatives for an east facing border. Small garden.
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Sad Tess
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If the plant died of old age, then there is no reason why you couldn't replace it with another. I would however recommend digging in lots of nutrient-rich organic matter before you do.
Helen
- Hi I have had this hydrangea now for 3 years and it has never flowered. What should I do to encourage it to flower? I have looked at the answer to a previous question and it has never had any buds so don't believe frost to be the cause and it has been pruned at the right time of the year. Thanks Fiona
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Pinnygig8
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Hello Fiona, Given that it has been correctly pruned, the most likely causes for this are either not enough sun, water or nutrients. If you have been feeding your plant, it may be worth looking into the type of fertiliser you have been using, as while those that contain lots of nitrogen will promote lots of leafy growth, plants respond better to potash when it comes to the production of flowers. Therefore you could try applying either some sulphate of potash or Tomorite, both of which are high in potash.
Helen
- can an hydrangea pan 'Silver Dollar be kept in a pot on a long term basis or do they need to be planted out. If they can be kept in a pot how often should you repot?
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Chris
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Hello there You could start it off in a pot but long term really it would be better planted in the ground. Ideally I would choose one of the smaller compact macrophylla forms for a container. Something like Hydrangea macrophylla 'Zebra, http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/hydrangea-macrophylla-zebra-pbr/classid.2000014390/ or Hydrangea macrophylla 'Hot Red Violet' http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/hydrangea-macrophylla-hot-red- violet/classid.2000018076/ or Hydrangea macrophylla 'Black Steel Zambia' http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/hydrangea-macrophylla-black-steel-zambia/classid.2000014389/
- Suggestions for planting low maintenance border please Hello, I recently had my garden extended by a piece of land measuring 34 metres by 14 metres, and my son purchased 23 Phormiums from you in last August on my behalf. I was delighted with the service I received, and the plants appear to be thriving well especially considering the dreadful weather we have suffered this winter. We also bought Rootgrow from you to assist with their development ,and also for use when we moved mature Acers and other shrubs. I still need more shrubs or other types of plants and would appreciate some advice as to what to use. Along one of the 14 metre lengths there is a "hedge" of bamboo plants, and adjacent to these on the return (long) length there is a small rise of earth, tapering down to ground level, with a specimen black bamboo at the end of the mound. There is also a mature acer, which we had to move, situated at the edge of the dividing path (between the lawn) on the field side of the garden. Would it be possible for you to suggest the names of suitable plants which I could purchase from you and which would compliment the existing ones. I am in my eighties and therefore need a very low maintenance garden. I would also like to introduce a little colour if possible. My garden is very exposed and is on quite a windy site. I look forward to your reply.
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Marian Burgess
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Hello there, There are many plants that might tempt you - here are some of my favourites:- Fatsia japonica http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/fatsia-japonica/classid.3840/ Rodgersia http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.rodgersia/cat.plants/ Heuchera http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.heuchera/cat.plants/ Hydrangea paniculata http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.hydrangea-paniculata/ Aucuba japonica http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/aucuba-japonica/classid.277/ Rosa rugosa Alba http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/roses/shrub-rose/hedging/bush-rose/hedging-rose/other-shrub-rose/rosa-rugosa-alba/classid.1148/ Cotoneaster http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.cotoneaster/ Buddleja http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.buddleja/ I hope this helps, Helen Plant Doctor
Crocus Helpdesk
- Specimen Ceanothus or another large bushy shrub.... Good afternoon, When I was first looking for a Ceanothus to replace the one we have in our front garden, I looked on your website, but you only had small ones. Our once lovely Ceanothus has been pruned out of all recognition again this year, as I planted it a bit too near our boundary when it was a baby. I know it may come back, but it is getting ridiculous as every time it grows back it has to be cut back again severely and then ooks a mess for most of the year. Have you got a nice, tall, bushy Ceanothus to replace it? I love my Ceanothus but perhaps if you don't have a big one, do you have another large, flowering shrub as an alternative? Hope you can help Regards Margaret
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D DRAKETT
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Hello Margaret, it is rare to find larger sized Ceanothus as they are usually quite short-lived and don't normally live longer than 6 - 8 years. We do have a selection of larger shrubs on our site like Hamamelis, Hydrangeas, Magnolias, Acer, Cornus, Cotinus, Philadelphus, Syringa and Viburnum, so you may find something of interest. They will be listed in this section. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor
Crocus Helpdesk
- Moving Hydrangeas Hello there, I have a wonderful Hydrangea 'Tricolor' which has just finished flowering for this year. However it is now getting too big for its space and I would like to move it. I am wondering if this is possible and if so if now is the best time to do this or if it would be better to wait till the spring. Hope you can help as it is a lovely plant and I do not want to lose it but it is definitely beginning to look unhappy in its current place, although the aspect is appropriate. Thanking you in advance for your time with this. Liz
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ldavidson
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Dear Helen Thank you so much for your prompt and helpful reply to my email about moving my Hydrangea. I will do as you say as I am very keen for it to survive! Thanks again Liz
Crocus Helpdesk
Hello Liz, The best time to move established shrubs is in the autumn when the soil is still warm but the plant isn't in full active growth - so now is perfect. Begin by marking a circle around the shrub, as wide as the widest branch. Dig a trench along the line of this circle. Use a fork to loosen the soil around the root ball as you go to reduce its size and weight so that it becomes manageable. When the root ball looks about the right size that you can still move it but there are still a lot of roots intact, begin to under cut the root ball with a sharp spade to sever the biggest woody roots. Roll up the root ball in sacking or plastic to protect the roots from damage and drying out. Move the shrub to a pre determined position. It is important to have the site ready so that you can transplant the shrub at once and it isn't left for hours (or worse!) drying out. Remove the sacking and plant the shrub in the new hole, at the depth at which it was previously planted. Firm well, water well and mulch with a good thick layer of well rotted farmyard manure. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor
ldavidson
- Hydrangea not flowering Hi I have a Hydrangea in my garden. For a few years it was in a pot but for some reason, it only ever seem to flower every other year. The autumn before last, I planted it in the border as it was getting too big to leave in a pot. It didn't flower last year so I was expecting it to bloom this year but it hasn't got a single flower. Around the beginning of the year I noticed the slugs had had a go at it as it was looking poorly. However, I sorted that problem and the foliage is looking really healthy but it still hasn't got a single flower. Any ideas about what could have gone wrong, please? Thanks Sylvia
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Sylvia Styles
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Hello Sylvia, There are a number of reasons why plants don't flower, but the most likely cause of your problems are either a late frost killing off the buds, or it could be pruning at the wrong time of the year. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor
Crocus Helpdesk
- Rabbit proof shrubs Dear Sirs We are planning to plant a 30mt long border with flowering shrubs and have assorted colours of Rhododendrons in mind. Our main concern is that the shrubs must be rabbit proof as the border is adjacent to woods and a large grassed area. Also, where possible we would like to have 'flowers' on the shrubs throughout the summer. Would you be able to provide a picking list of suitable shrubs? Thank you for your prompt attention Andy
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Clark, Andy (buying)
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Hello there, These are really troublesome pests, and there are no effective deterrents available (apart from getting a guard dog) which will be any help to you. They tend to prefer leaves and soft stems rather than flowers and woody stems, and they seem to prefer feeding in exposed positions and often nibble plants at the edge of borders. This habit can be used to the gardener's advantage by planting more valuable subjects in the centre of beds. In winter, when food is scarce, deciduous plants at the edge of beds will not interest rabbits, and will help protect winter flowers in the centre. Below is a list of flowering shrubs which they usually tend to leave alone. Buddleia davidii, Ceanothus Cistus Cotoneaster dammeri Deutzia Hebe Hypericum Hydrangea Mahonia aquifolium Potentilla fructicosa Rhododendron spp. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor
Crocus Helpdesk
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