25% off
25% off
25% off
apple 'Red Falstaff' (PBR)
eating / dessert apple
A red sport of the well-known 'Falstaff', this small tree produces a generous crop of apples, which have a crisp, juicy...
9 litre pot | MM106 root stock | 1.2m
In stock (delivery within 2-3 working days)
12 litre pot | M27 | top worked at 70cm
In stock (delivery within 2-3 working days)
bare root | MM106 root stock | 1.2m tall
available to order from summer
1
Delivery options
Plant description
A red sport of the well-known 'Falstaff', this small tree produces a generous crop of apples, which have a crisp, juicy flesh that is the perfect blend of sweet and tangy. It's a great dessert apple that can be eaten straight from the tree in October, but it also stores well.
Developed in Norfolk in 1983, apple 'Red Falstaff' shows a good resistance to frost, and because it is partially self fertile, you can grow it without a pollination partner - although you will have an even bigger crop if there is one nearby.
If you choose the top worked option, the crown of this small tree has been grafted onto the upright stem of the rootstock at a height of 70cm, which will limit the eventual height. Perfect for a small garden or growing in a large pot with a loam-based (John Innes) compost.
Pollination information: This apple belongs to pollination group 3, however it is partially self fertile, so does not need a pollinating partner to produce a crop of apples. For a bumper crop, it can be cross-pollinated with other apples in this group.
Developed in Norfolk in 1983, apple 'Red Falstaff' shows a good resistance to frost, and because it is partially self fertile, you can grow it without a pollination partner - although you will have an even bigger crop if there is one nearby.
If you choose the top worked option, the crown of this small tree has been grafted onto the upright stem of the rootstock at a height of 70cm, which will limit the eventual height. Perfect for a small garden or growing in a large pot with a loam-based (John Innes) compost.
Pollination information: This apple belongs to pollination group 3, however it is partially self fertile, so does not need a pollinating partner to produce a crop of apples. For a bumper crop, it can be cross-pollinated with other apples in this group.
Eventual height & spread
Flowering period
- Jan
- Feb
- Mar
- Apr
- May
- Jun
- Jul
- Aug
- Sep
- Oct
- Nov
- Dec
Plant features
Position
Full sun
Rate of growth
Average
Soil
Moderately fertile, moist, well-drained soil
Hardiness
Fully hardy
How to care for apple Red Falstaff (PBR):
When planting your apple tree, prepare a hole up to three times the diameter of its root system. Fork over the base of the pit in readiness, incorporating plenty of organic matter into the backfill and planting hole. Place the plant in the planting hole and carefully refill, firming the soil around the roots to eliminate air pockets. Insert stake at this point if required.
Avoiding frozen and waterlogged soil, trees should be planted out as they arrive. If you've ordered a bare root tree, soak the roots in a bucket of water for half an hour prior to planting - or if this is not possible, they can be heeled in temporarily, covering their roots with soil, or potted up.
Keep the base of the tree weed free, fertilise at the beginning of each year water regularly during hot, dry spells.
The main prune should be done in the winter as long as it isn't frosty or freezing. Take out the 3D’s (dead, dying and diseased wood) and create an open shape. Then reduce the leaders back by a third. Aim to create an airy structure without any crisscrossing branches.
In August summer prune. Shorten any side shoots (or laterals) which are longer than 20cm back to three leaves. This will allow the sun to ripen the fruit and encourage more fruit buds. Make sure that the growth you’re cutting away feels firm to the touch.
Avoiding frozen and waterlogged soil, trees should be planted out as they arrive. If you've ordered a bare root tree, soak the roots in a bucket of water for half an hour prior to planting - or if this is not possible, they can be heeled in temporarily, covering their roots with soil, or potted up.
Keep the base of the tree weed free, fertilise at the beginning of each year water regularly during hot, dry spells.
The main prune should be done in the winter as long as it isn't frosty or freezing. Take out the 3D’s (dead, dying and diseased wood) and create an open shape. Then reduce the leaders back by a third. Aim to create an airy structure without any crisscrossing branches.
In August summer prune. Shorten any side shoots (or laterals) which are longer than 20cm back to three leaves. This will allow the sun to ripen the fruit and encourage more fruit buds. Make sure that the growth you’re cutting away feels firm to the touch.
Please note:
This plant is deciduous so it will lose all its leaves in autumn, then fresh new foliage appears again each spring.
