Paeonia 'Buckeye Belle'
paeony / peony
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: fertile, moisture-retentive yet well-drained
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: May to June
- Hardiness: fully hardy
Prized for their blowsy, glamorous blooms and glossy, deeply cut foliage, peonies are held in deep affection by many gardeners, despite their short flowering season and vulnerability to peony wilt in damp weather. It's easy to see why. From the promise of early spring, when their red, mottled shoots push through bare earth and the handsome foliage unfurls, to early summer, when the huge flowers burst open from spherical red buds, peonies exert a fascination that few can resist. 'Buckeye Belle; has deep red semi-double flowers from early to mid summer and dark green leaves. This lovely, early-flowering peony will thrive in partial shade but will prefer a sunnier spot. Fill the bare ground around the peony with spring bulbs to prolong the season of interest.
- Garden care: Deadhead after flowering. In early spring apply a top-dressing of a balanced slow release fertiliser around the base of the plant and mulch well with well rotted garden compost or manure. If the plant shows signs of collapse or the leaves become spotty, this may be a symptom of peony botrytis. Remove affected leaves immediately. In autumn, cut off all foliage and dispose of it to prevent reinfection the following spring.
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Q:I purchased a paeonia buckeye belle from you four years ago and until last year it flowered well. Last year the flower buds did not open they were brown. I noticed the leaves were spotted and cut them off in autumn. This year the leaves emerged but I only have one bud which is brown again and not opening. Is this the dreaded botrytis and what can I do to revive my treasured plant?Asked on 13/6/2016 by Lynnie from Nottingham
If the spots are really dark, then this could well be botrytis (its usually seen after a wet season), however if the spots are reddish, then I suspect the culprit is a paeonia blotch. How to treat the plant will depend on which one you are definitely doing the right thing by collecting the affected foliage in autumn. You can also help control them by using a suitable fungicide.Answered on 23/6/2016 by Helen from crocus
Q:I bought a paeonia buckeye belle from you six years ago and it has flowered well until last year when there were not as many flowers as previous years. I thought it might be paeonia wilt as the leaves were spotted. I made sure I took leaves off in the autumn and destroyed them. However this year, the leaves emerged healthy but I only have one bud which looks a little brown. Any advice on how to bring it back to its former glory? Thank youAsked on 5/6/2016 by Lynnie from Nottingham
The most likely causes of this are insufficient light (if there is a tree nearby it may be blocking out more sun), not enough fertiliser (of using one that contains too much nitrogen, the foliage was removed too early last autumn, or a hard, late frost.Answered on 16/6/2016 by Helen from crocus
Q:Growing plants for a wedding
Dear Crocus, I am a very happy customer ..... I love your site, plants and service. I learnt about you first from Arabella Lennox-Boyd. But now I am writing for some advice please. My sister is getting married in Oxfordshire on the last weekend of May. I would love to grow the flowers for the wedding. I have a big garden with empty beds and a green house at my disposal. Could you give me some advice on types of cut flowers that would be in bloom at the end of May? Some pointers as a place to start my research and buying would be fantastic. Thank you very much, Best wishes, KateAsked on 8/1/2010 by Kate Olivia Higginbottom
A:Hello Kate, It will be a little hit and miss as a lot will depend on the weather, but the following plants should be in flower around that time. Choisya ternata
Osmanthus x burkwoodii
Viburnum x carlcephalum
http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.paeonia/ Euphorbia palustris
and if we have a hot start to the summer a couple of roses or some of the earlier lavenders may have started too. I hope this gives you lots of ideas. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 8/1/2010 by Kate Olivia Higginbottom
A:Thank you so much Helen - amazing! I'll send you photos of the finished results. Best wishes and thanks again, KateAnswered on 8/1/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Hi, I received my RHS garden magazine a few days ago and I am interested in the Peonies. I just have a question regarding Peonies - if I buy them now when is the best time to plant them? Regards GiovannaAsked on 22/10/2009 by Giovanna
A:Hello Giovanna, Ideally these should be planted as soon as you receive them into fertile, moisture-retentive yet well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade. I hope this helps. HelenAnswered on 22/10/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Chelsea - Peonies?
Dear Sirs, I visited Chelsea Flower Show this year, and really liked the Laurent Perrier show garden. From their leaflet, I believe you may have supplied the plants. Could you please confirm exactly which dark red Paeonia was used, as I'm not sure that it was the one pictured - it was absolutely gorgeous! Also please can you advise what time of the year is best to buy these plants? Yours faithfully KatharineAsked on 30/9/2009 by Anonymous
A:Hello Katharine, It was Paeonia Buckeye Belle - just click on the following link to go straight to it. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/perennials/paeonia-buckeye-belle/classid.2000007631/ These can be planted at any time of the year as long as the ground is not too heavy and wet in winter. The best times to plant though are spring or autumn. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 30/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Paeonias starting to look bit unwell- are they ok?
Hi, I ordered some Paeonias in April.....of the four that I bought I am bit worried as to me thye don't look very healthy. Would you be able to give me some advise please? Are they Ok? Thanks and with kind regardsAsked on 26/9/2009 by Maria Hagbro
A:Hello there, These plants are starting to die back now and this is a natural part of their life cycle. The leaves will continue to deteriorate in autumn and disappear altogether in winter, then in the Spring the plants will put on lots of new, lush growth. Best regards, Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 28/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Hello I just wanted a quick bit of advice before I make a purchase. I'm hoping to plant some peonies in a raised bed on an allotment this September. I was thinking of purchasing the following: Paeonia Buckeye Belle, Paeonia lactiflora Sarah Bernhardt, Paeonia lactiflora Bowl of Beauty I just wanted to check how big a bed I should have, how deep the bed should be and how far should I space each specimen. Many thanks, SimonAsked on 16/8/2009 by Simon Swift
A:Hello Simon, There are no hard and fast rules. You can see the eventual width of these plants on our site, which is between 80 - 90cm, so if you want to space them with small gaps in between you should aim to plant 1 per m2. If you don't mind them touching and intermingling, you can plant them closer. As for the depth, they do not really need to be grown in raised beds as long as the soil is good and does not remain waterlogged for any length of time. If the raised bed in going over soil, then the plants roots will work their way down into this anyway. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 17/8/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Can I divide my Peonies?
Could you please tell me what to do with my Peonies, now that they've finished flowering. I would like to move and divide them if possible, as they have outgrown the space where they were first planted. Thank you ValAsked on 14/6/2009 by david gregory
A:Hello Val, Herbaceous Peonies, should be left until they have died back and then lift and divide them in the autumn or early spring. I hope this helps.Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 15/6/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:How do I look after my Paeonies?
I have two newly established Paeonies (2nd year - still no flowers) and the leaves have now turned brown. Am I meant to prune them? Is there any other advice regarding their general care?Asked on 8/11/2005 by Bets Ingram
A:Paeonies can take a few years to establish and produce flowers, so I would not be too despondent. As for general care instructions, it all depends on what type of paeony you have - a tree paeony or a herbaceous type. If your paeonies still have a woody stem at this time of year then they are more than likely tree paeonies. The herbaceous paeonies die right down, so any foliage now would have collapsed due to the frosts The later need very little care. Do not prune the plants at all, but remove the dead foliage in autumn to tidy them up. In early spring apply a balanced slow-release fertiliser around the base of the plant and mulch with well-rotted compost or manure. If you have a tree paeony, you will need to treat it a little differently, but you will still need to remove the dead leaves, making sure the remaining stem remains intact. Depending on the size of the plant you have bought, they can take up to to four years to start flowering after planting. Sometimes a newly planted tree peony will appear to make very little growth in its first season, but all its activity happens underground as its energies are going into producing a good root system. Providing the foliage looks reasonably healthy, there is nothing to worry about and this may just be a 'settling in' period. Occasionally the main stem may die back a little. This might be a little worrying, but wait until the following spring when vigorous growth should resume from the lower part of the stem or even from below soil level. Tree peonies are heavy feeders and they respond well to a generous, early autumn top dressing of blood, fish and bone, a slow release organic fertiliser. Its high potash content encourages flowers to develop. A light sprinkling of a general fertiliser such as Growmore can be applied in the spring if you wish. They also respond well to pruning. Ultimately you should aim for a broad, multi-stemmed shrub of up to 120-150cm in height, which will not need staking. Chinese and American types have a naturally branching habit and will need less regular pruning than the Japanese and French types. While the plant is still young, don't be tempted to prune, apart from removing dead wood during the first two years to help get the plant established. After this if your plant forms a good shape, no regular pruning is needed. However, if your plant has few stems and is poorly shaped, then prune hard in late winter or early spring, just as the growth buds are swelling. This may mean that you sacrifice some flowers in the coming year. If this is a big issue, you can also prune it directly after flowering but the regrowth will be slower.Answered on 9/11/2005 by Crocus
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