clematis (group 3)
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: fertile, well-drained, neutral soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: July to September
- Hardiness: fully hardy
This vigorous, late-summer flowering clematis produces a profusion of crimson-red flowers from July to September. Named after the kermis insect from which the red dye cochineal is obtained, the scarlet flowers look magnificent scrambling through trees, shrubs and climbing roses. Resistant to clematis-wilt it copes well in moderate wind.
- Garden care: In early spring cut back the previous year's stems to a pair of strong buds about 15-20cm (6-8in) above ground-level and apply a slow-release balanced fertiliser and a mulch of well-rotted garden compost around the plant, avoiding the immediate crown.
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Q:Climbers for trellis with wildlife considerations
Hi I have a bare trellis at the end of my garden which marks the end of my raspberry and rhubarb beds, and where my composting and comfrey live. I want to cover this trellis with something to give colour all the year round, even if that "colour" is green leaves. I also want to provide something beneficial to the wildlife. I had thought about growing an Ivy, with a Clematis. Would these two climbers work in a small area and would I get my combination of colour, all year interest and wildlife benefits? Thanks MikeAsked on 17/3/2010 by Mike Simpson
A:Hello Mike, The best climbers for wildlife are Hederas (Ivy) or Lonicera (Honeysuckles). These are both pretty big and vigorous plants though and your trellis sounds quite small. The ivy can be cut back very hard though, so perhaps your best option would be to use an ivy and then plant a smaller growing group 3 Clematis, which should be cut in early spring each year. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 17/3/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Lawn overhaul, am I doing it right?
Hello again, Since we have been using your web site and getting our plants and shrubs from you we have to say, that although it is a bit of a treck for us to get to you, it has always been well worth the trip. I have another project to do now and that is to completely overhaul the lawn. It's 120 sq mtrs and has developed brown patches and has not grown much this summer. I intend to give it a good scarifying , aerate it properly, give it a good feed then completely re-seed it. Can I put lawn sand on top of the seed to protect it from the birds, as we have 2 pigeons and blackbirds who visit our bird table. I had a lot of conifers in the garden which I have had removed stumps and all, - I think they were taking a lot of moisture out of the grass. Do you think I am going about the refurb.of the lawn in the right way. Yours TomAsked on 30/9/2009 by Anonymous
A:Hello Tom, There are many reasons why lawns develop brown patches, but it may be that yours just needs a bit of TLC. It sounds as if your planning on doing everything correctly, but I would be careful about feeding as this may burn the new grass seedlings. As for using sand, your best option may be to mix the seed with the sand before you spread it as this will also make it easier to see where you are placing it. I hope this helps and good luck. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 30/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:How can I control sheep sorrel in my lawn?
I have a large area of lawn that is covered in sheep sorrel. Is there any product I can use to kill it off without killing the lawn as well?Asked on 21/4/2005 by tiscali
A:I regret that we are unable to recommend a weedkiller which would not damage your lawn, so if you have a big patch, then you could spray it with Roundup. This will kill off the lawn too, but the bare patches can then be re-seeded at a later date. Also, as this tenacious weed tends to thrive in poorly drained soils that have a low nitrogen content, you should also try to improve the overall health and vigour of your lawn. You can do this by aerating and feeding it. This will encourage vigourous lawn growth, which will help prevent the weed getting a foot-hold.Answered on 22/4/2005 by Crocus
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