- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: well-drained, moderately fertile, preferably acidic soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Fruiting period: July and August
- Flower colour: white
- Other features: juicy fruit with a tangy flavour
- Hardiness: fully hardy
Identical in every respect to traditional tayberries, with the exception that this exciting new hybrid is thornless so have smooth canes. It will produce its large, tangy fruit in late July and August and bumper crops can be frozen and enjoyed at a later date. Ideal for planting against a wall or a fence, it also does well in large containers.
- Garden care: Prepare the spoil well by digging in lots of composted manure before you plant. Plant it in mounded rows or raised beds with parallel wires for support. Alternatively, train it against a wall or trellis and you can expect up to 20lb of delicious fruit from the second season. It is important to avoid excessive winter wet.
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6 Questions | 7 Answers
Displaying questions 1-6
Q:I have a tayberry (a gift, not one of yours ) it has good new shoots and flowers, but no fruit developes from these flowers. I cut out the old flowering stems late summer and tie in the healthy new shoots. It has done this for 2 years now. We grow lovely blackberries !Any ideas what is going wrong ?Asked on 9/7/2013 by fruity from Hampshire
I'm afraid I am mystified by this as normally, once the canes have flowered, they should go on to produce fruit. If however the plant is stressed, then they do naturally shed their fruit as it does use up quite a lot of their energy. Therefore I would make sure the plant is kept well fed and watered, and try giving it some sulphate of potash, which will give it a bit of a push in the right direction. I would also hang onto one of the older canes and see if it produces fruits in its third year.Answered on 10/7/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Vegetable suggestions for a shady veg. garden!
Hello I have raised beds for veggies in my new garden. One bed gets sun most of the day whilst the other gets only a little sunshine .Could you please help with a list of fruit and veg to grow in each of them. Many thanksAsked on 7/4/2010 by Judith
A:Hello There, I'm afraid you will have trouble getting a bumper yield of any of the edible crops if the bed receives little sun, as most of them need full sun. Ones that tolerate some shade include radish, potato, borage, horseradish, blueberry, blackberry and tayberry - all the others will flourish in the sun. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 8/4/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Tayberry fruiting, and what do I do with my Amaryllis once it has flowered?
Please can you help me with 2 questions? I have a Tayberry bush in its 3rd season. To date, no fruit. In the 2nd season, it had lots of healthy leaves, but nothing else. Any help please? An Amaryllis I was given has almost finished flowering and I'd like to preserve it for next year. How do I do it? Many thanks, SueAsked on 29/3/2010 by sue james
A:Hello Sue, Tayberries usually start to produce fruit while still young, but they will only fruit on canes that are in their second year and you should not be pruning the canes out until they have produced fruit. You should also make sure they get lots of sun and sufficient water, and feed them regularly with a general purpose fertiliser. A sprinkling of Potash will also give them a bit of a push in the right direction. As for the Amaryllis, we do have lots of information on their care, which I will paste below. The bold, showy flowers of these tender bulbs are often used to bring colour into the home throughout the winter and are particularly popular at Christmas. They should be planted from October to January and will generally flower six to eight weeks later. If you follow the instructions below, you should be able to get yours to keep producing flowers year after year. 1. Using John Innes no.2 or a good multipurpose compost and a pot that is just a little larger than the circumference of the bulb, plant it so only the lower third of the bulb is below the surface of the compost. 2. Leave the pot in a bright spot where the temperatures remain around 20C and turn it regularly as it will start groing towards the light. 3. Water sparingly until the new leaves are establishing well and then you can start to water more regularly. The aim at this stage is to not allow the compost to get too dry, but dont allow it to get too wet and soggy either. Make sure the excess water can drain away freely. 4. When the flowers appear, you can prolong their life by moving them to a cooler spot, but make sure the temperatures dont dip much below around 15C. After they have finished flowering, you can grow them on and feed regularly with a balanced liquid fertiliser. Once the weather warms up, you can then take the pots outside and leave them in a sheltered spot (or greenhouse if you have one), but do keep a lookout for slugs and snails. They will need to be fed and watered regularly and should have protection from sun at the hottest part of the day. In autumn, they should be moved again to a bright spot and kept cool (around 13C) for a couple of months. When you move them to this cooler spot, you should also stop feeding them and cut back on the water as you want to encourage them to become dormant. After a couple of months 'down time' you can cut off the old leaves to about 10cm above the top of the bulb and replace the top 5cm of compost to freshen it up. Then just follow the growing instructions from point 2. listed above. If however you dont have a garden, then feed and water regularly through the spring and summer and then stop feeding and watering in early autumn. The plants will probably die right back and the soil will get quite dry. Move the pots to a cool place (they dont need light at this point, so a garage would do) for 1 - 2 months. After that, you can bring them back to life by bringing them back indoors into the light and start feeding and watering again. Every two or three years, they will need to be re-potted, and this should be tackled immediately after they have finished flowering. The main reasons that Amaryllis fail to produce flowers include not enough sunlight, not receiving enough water during the previous summer, or forcing the dormancy too early. They are also prone to a few bulb pests and fungal diseases. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 30/3/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Tayberry 'Buckingham' care and advice
Hi I have been given a Tayberry Buckingham, but I am not sure how big it will grow, and how and when to prune it. I have a row of autumn raspberries so I could add it on to the end of them, or by a post and rail fence, with rather poor soil but very well drained, but without wind protection. Please advise. SallyAsked on 11/3/2010 by Drummond-Hay
A:Thank you. Planted and hoping for lots of Tayberries in the next few years.Answered on 14/3/2010 by Drummond-Hay
A:Hello Sally, If you click on the following link it will take you to some information we have on our site. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/fruit/kitchengarden/fruit-and-berries/cane-fruit/tayberry-buckingham/classid.2000013090/ As for the position, you will need to dig in lots of composted organic matter into the soil, but they don't mind exposed positions, although the tips may get a little scorched by hard frosts. They should be treated in much the same way as blackberries and trained onto supports. Once the canes have produced fruit, they should be cut back to the base to make way for new canes, which can be tied in their place. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 12/3/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Fruit trees for north facing wall?
Hello, I would like to grow some small fruit trees in containers against a north east facing wall. Any advice on what varieties would suit these conditions? Many thanks, TammyAsked on 29/9/2009 by Tammy
A:Hello Tammy, I'm afraid most fruit needs a good amount of sun to flourish, so this a north-east wall is really not an ideal spot. I don't think any of the trees will thrive, however you could try either Blueberries or a Tayberry. I'm sorry not to be more help.Answered on 30/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
I am keen to purchase raspberry canes to grow this year. Before I purchase, can you guarantee that your canes are 'virus free'?Asked on 7/7/2009 by Carol Fry
A:Hello There, All our fruit is virus free, but certificates are only issued when plants cross borders. We only deliver to mainland UK, so we do not have certificates, but keep in mind that all our hardy plants are also covered by a 1 year guarantee.Answered on 8/7/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
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