Rosa 'Souvenir du Docteur Jamain'

rose Souvenir du Docteur Jamain (climbing)

25% off Roses
4 litre pot
pot size guide
£24.99 £18.74 Buy
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  • Position: full sun or partial shade
  • Soil: fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil
  • Rate of growth: average
  • Flowering period: July to September
  • Flower colour: deep wine red
  • Other features: excellent cut-flowers
  • Hardiness: fully hardy

    First introduced in 1865, this rose was a firm favourite of the renowned plantswoman Vita Sackville-West, and all the top designers are still scrambling for it today. It is one of the best climbers for a north facing wall, as the deep claret coloured flowers tend to fade in full sun. The main flush of flowers appear in midsummer, but it will continue to have smaller bursts until autumn. They are tolerant of poor soils, have few thorns, and can be grown as an open shrub if they are given support.

    All our roses are grown in an open field and then dug up when the weather conditions are right in October or November. Some suppliers send out their roses as 'bare root' plants (ie without pots or compost), but we pot ours up as it helps to keep the roots hydrated and in good condition. As they are dormant throughout the winter, they will not produce any new roots until spring, so don't be surprised if the compost falls away from the roots when you take them out of their pots. The roses can be kept in their pots throughout the winter provided they are kept well fed and watered, however ideally they should planted out as soon as possible. They will already have been cut back so no further pruning will be required, apart from snipping off any tips that have died back. Routine pruning can begin in late winter the year after planting.

  • Garden care: If planting in winter, choose a frost-free spell when the soil is not frozen. Roses are quite deep-rooted plants so dig a deep hole roughly twice as wide as the plants roots and mix in a generous amount of composted organic matter. A top-dressing of a general purpose fertiliser can be worked into the surrounding soil and we also recommend using Rose Rootgrow at this stage to encourage better root development. This is particularly important when planting into a bed where roses have previously been grown as Rose Rootgrow is said to combat rose sickness (aka. replant disease). Before planting you will also need to make sure that there is adequate support for the rose to grow onto.

    Remove the plants from their pots and gently spread out the roots before placing them in the centre of the hole. Try to ensure that the 'bud union' (the point where the cultivated rose has been grafted onto the rootstock, and from where the shoots emerge) is at soil level. You can judge this quite easily by laying something flat, like a spade handle or bamboo cane, across the top of the hole. When they are at the right height, back-fill the hole, firming the soil down gently before watering the plant well. Tie the stems to the support in and open fan shape and as new shhots emerge, tie these in horizontally, as this will encourage flowering shoots to form nearer the base.

    When planting against a large tree, dig a hole about a metre away from the trunk and angle the rose towards the trunk. The tree must be mature and strong enough to take the weight of the rose. Or you can train the rose up to the crown of branches, using wooden supports. In this case the rose should be planted on the outer reaches of the tree's canopy. Allow it to scramble up the supports and then into your chosen tree.

    Water generously until well established, and apply a specialist rose fertiliser (following the manufacturers instructions) each spring. They will also benefit from a generous mulch of composted farmyard manure in spring, but make sure this is kept away from the stems.

    From late autumn to late winter, pop on a pair of tough gloves and remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems. Tie in new stems and and shorten the side-shoots of any flowered stems by up to two thirds. When the plants become congested, remove one or two of the oldest stems, cutting them right back to their base. Climbing roses usually respond well to hard pruning, so those that have become very overgrown can be renovated from late autumn to late winter. First remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems completely. Keeping from four to six young stems, cut all the others right back to their base. Shorten the side shoots on the remaining stems by up to a half and tie these onto the support.

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REVIEW SNAPSHOT®

by PowerReviews
 
3.5

(based on 2 reviews)

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Reviewed by 2 customers

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3.0

Very fussy rose

By ccbath

from south west england

Pros

  • Beautiful Old Rose Colour
  • Fragrant
  • Healthy

Cons

  • Difficult To Place

Best Uses

    I chose this rose with care and positioned it where it would not get midday sun - however it still failed to flower well as blooms scorched in the small amount of sun that it did receive. I moved it to a more shaded spot and found that it did not thrive, despite attentive care. In the end I've removed it. Although the rose is a glorious colour when it flowers and it is pretty disease resistant, the flowers spoil so quickly that it does not earn its garden space.

    • Your Gardening Experience:
    • Experienced

    Comment on this review

    (6 of 6 customers found this review helpful)

     
    4.0

    A rose that requires a lot of staff

    By rosa

    from derbyshire dales

    Pros

    • Attractive
    • Fragrant
    • Hardy

    Cons

      Best Uses

      • Garden

      A rose of great refinement - and she will let you know it. Lots of work to keep her propped up (very thin stems and heavy heads). The normally beautiful, dusty-maroon flowers will turn brown, really ugly, if they open in strong sunshine. Otherwise, a really old-fashioned lady with great style.

      • Your Gardening Experience:
      • Experienced

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      Do you want to ask a question about this?

      If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
      3 Questions | 5 Answers
      Displaying questions 1-3
      • Q:

        I have a west-facing front garden and would like to plant some roses in a sheltered bed under the sitting room window. My Ferdinand Pichard usually does well in this spot(though not last summer as it was so miserable). Could you recommend any other roses that are likely to be happy in this position? They would need to be bush roses rather than climbers or ramblers.

        Thanks very much,

        K
        Asked on 4/10/2013 by K from South Hertfordshire

        1 answer

      • Q:

        Planting a climbing Rose by a drain pipe?

        Hello I am an 'old' customer and would love to buy a Rose Souvenir du Dr Jamain. BUT there is only one place it could go which is near a drain pipe. Question: How far away from a drain pipe do you think one should plant this rose OR how big a pot would you advise if it would be preferable to put it in a pot (if it will grow in that). Many thanks Julia
        Asked on 2/19/2010 by Julia Engelhardt

        3 answers

        • A:

          Hello again Julia, Roses are not known to seek out loads of water, so as long as they are adequately watered I would not expect them to cause any problems with the drains. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

          Answered on 2/19/2010 by Julia Engelhardt
        • A:

          Hello Julia, None of the climbing roses do well in pots for any length of time, so you should aim to plant it in the ground. As for the planting distance from the drainpipe, I would not be too concerned as long as the pipe is sound and well connected to the wall. This rose has an eventual spread of around 2m, so I would aim to plant it around 1m away from the pipe. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

          Answered on 2/19/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
        • A:

          Thanks. I was much more concerned about the roots interfering with the pipe below ground, to be honest, so is the answer the same? Best. Julia

          Answered on 2/23/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
      • Q:

        Disease resistant roses for a coastal area

        Hi, Before I order some roses I need some information on which ones would grow well in our local conditions. I live in the far west of Cornwall, the soil is fairly acid,- Camellias grow well here. It's windy and the air is quite salt laden since we're not far from the sea. I'd like disease resistant plants if possilbe since the climbing roses by the cottage door do get black spot. At the moment, even here, where we hardly ever have a frost, there is 4 inches of snow on the ground and the temperature has been 0 to minus 1 for the past five days.... the postman hasn't reached us for four days! ...So, I won't be ordering the roses right now. Thanks, Trudi
        Asked on 1/9/2010 by Trudi Gurling

        1 answer

        • A:

          Hello Trudi, All roses need similar growing conditions, although a couple are slightly more tolerant of shade than others. If you click on the following link it will take you to all our roses that show some resistance to diseases. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/roses/plcid.8/vid.243/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

          Answered on 1/11/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
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