Hydrangea macrophylla 'Zebra' (PBR)
- Position: partial shade
- Soil: moist, well-drained, moderately fertile, humus-rich soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: June to October
- Flower colour: white
- Hardiness: fully hardy
The glowing white flowerheads and lush green foliage provide a brilliant contrast to the near-black stems. This new hydrangea is perfect for adding a burst of colour to a partially shaded bed and will also make a fine, informal, flowering hedge. Their long flowering period throughout summer and autumn and their tough and undemanding nature, means that these wonderful deciduous shrubs should be top of most gardeners wishlists.
- Garden care: Leave the old flower heads in place through the winter. As the new shoots start to emerge in spring cut back a third to a quarter of the previous seasons flowering stems to the base and cut back the remaining flower heads to the first pair of buds.
- CAUTION toxic if eaten/skin & eye irritant
There are currently no 'goes well with' suggestions for this item.
Do you want to ask a question about this?If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
Q:Hi, I have several of these Hydrangeas planted in large troughs along a border. Some of them seem healthy and have put on some new growth whilst others seem to be struggling. One or two leaves have started to turn brown (from the tip to the halfway point) shrivel up and die. Some of the plants have produced flowers and some haven't. All the plants have been planted in the same soil and in the same area of the garden. Thanks Tracey P.S. What should I do to the affected leaves?Asked on 8/18/2014 by I don't have one from Nottinghamshire
It is not unusual for the leaves of these plants to start looking tatty by the end of summer and any leaves that really spoil the look of the plant can be removed. As for why some of your plants are struggling and others are flourishing, it may be that they are planted too densely and there is just not enough room for them. Hydrangeas are pretty thirsty plants, and particularly when they are grown in pots, they do need lots of water. Feeding them with a good general purpose fertiliser such as MiracleGro or Vitax Q4 during the growing season will also help keep them in tip top condition.Answered on 8/27/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:When will this hydrangea (Zebra) start forming foliage in the spring? I'm looking to underplant with some winter- and/or spring-flowering bulbs, to help cover the woody stems below the dried flower heads. I'm mostly thinking of daffodils (from your "6-months of daffodils" collection), but would tulips come up too late? Any recommendations on bulbs to use would be appreciated. These will be in a relatively small, urban garden, so I'm focusing on year-round interest as the whole garden is quite visible from the house. Thank you!Asked on 7/31/2014 by LAS from London
It is difficult to say as it will depend on the weather. If we have a mild Spring, then it could start coming into leaf in March, but if the Spring is colder, then they may not start coming into leaf until late April. If you are thinking of under-planting with bulbs, then I would opt for early flowering bulbs such as snowdrops or crocus.Answered on 8/4/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:I planted a lace cap hydrangea couple of years ago and it just isn't growing. There should be no issues with soil as we have two other varieties in different locations of the garden. Any suggestions re what I can do to encourage growth...and flowers!
Carol AshleyAsked on 3/25/2014 by Toddy from Wightwick
It can be very frustrating when plants refuse to grow for seemingly no reason. Even small changes in soil moisture and nutrients, or aspect can make a big difference to the plants vigour. The most likely causes of this would be and air pocket or buried builders rubble (or something else unpleasant) in the soil, or a lack of water. I know there are two other Hydrangeas growing happily in other places in the garden, but the one that is struggling may be close to the base of a wall, or in a more exposed position, which will mean that it is much drier. The best way forward then (if you are confident the soil is OK) is to make sure you keep the plant well watered and fed with a good general purpose fertiliser such as Vitax Q4 - please click on the following link to go straight to it
I hope this helps,Answered on 3/27/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:Should I dead head each flower head once it's past its best ? Other websites say not, does this mean I should just leave branches with the blooms on & the plant should grow new branches which will provide the summer long flowering ?Asked on 8/7/2013 by archie from london
I wouldn't dead head as I think the dried dead flowers look attractive left on the plant through the winter. Then in the spring as the new shoots start to emerge cut back a third to a quarter of the previous seasons flowering stems to the base, and cut back the remaining flower heads to the first pair of buds. Hope this helpsAnswered on 8/7/2013 by Georgina from Crocus
Q:I want to plant 2 plants ,one In an east and one in a west facing bed In a courtyard sheltered with the walls of the house on three sides . So each plant will get the sun for around half the day.
Will these plants but happy in this environment? The soil does not tend to dry out too much and I will mulch well.
I just need reassurance to how much sun these plants will tolerate, my other hydrangeas ( Annabelle) are in a more shady environment
Thank you for your help.Asked on 2/17/2013 by Scottishgardener from Tunbridge Wells
This hydrangea prefers a spot in partial shade, so if each plant gets sun for just half a day then they should be fine.
I hope this helps,Answered on 2/19/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:What shade of blue will my Hydrangea be?
I have just looked at your blue Hydrangeas on the website, and I am curious to know, which picture shows the true likeness of colour for these plant? Thank you.Asked on 4/9/2010 by PATRICK BARRETT
A:Hello There, The flower colour of the Hydrangea flower will vary depending on the pH of your soil, so they are more blue in acidic soils and take on pink tones when planted in alkaline soils. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 4/12/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:What colour flower will a Hydrangea produce in a lime soil?
Hi, I like the Hydrangea macrophylla 'Endless Summer Blue' ('Bailmer') in a 5 litre pot. On the website it doesn't mention any specific soil requirements. What colour will the flowers be in lime soil? Thank you StephanieAsked on 3/8/2010 by Stephanie Thorne
A:Hello Stephanie Like all the other Hydrangeas, the flower colour of this cultivar will become pinker in alkaline soils, so ideally should be grown in neutral to acidic soils to keep the colour. I'm sorry for any confusion and will amend the details on our site to make this clearer. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 3/9/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Specimen Ceanothus or another large bushy shrub....
Good afternoon, When I was first looking for a Ceanothus to replace the one we have in our front garden, I looked on your website, but you only had small ones. Our once lovely Ceanothus has been pruned out of all recognition again this year, as I planted it a bit too near our boundary when it was a baby. I know it may come back, but it is getting ridiculous as every time it grows back it has to be cut back again severely and then ooks a mess for most of the year. Have you got a nice, tall, bushy Ceanothus to replace it? I love my Ceanothus but perhaps if you don't have a big one, do you have another large, flowering shrub as an alternative? Hope you can help Regards MargaretAsked on 12/5/2009 by D DRAKETT
A:Hello Margaret, it is rare to find larger sized Ceanothus as they are usually quite short-lived and don't normally live longer than 6 - 8 years. We do have a selection of larger shrubs on our site like Hamamelis, Hydrangeas, Magnolias, Acer, Cornus, Cotinus, Philadelphus, Syringa and Viburnum, so you may find something of interest. They will be listed in this section. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 12/8/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Hello there, I have a wonderful Hydrangea 'Tricolor' which has just finished flowering for this year. However it is now getting too big for its space and I would like to move it. I am wondering if this is possible and if so if now is the best time to do this or if it would be better to wait till the spring. Hope you can help as it is a lovely plant and I do not want to lose it but it is definitely beginning to look unhappy in its current place, although the aspect is appropriate. Thanking you in advance for your time with this. LizAsked on 10/23/2009 by ldavidson
A:Dear Helen Thank you so much for your prompt and helpful reply to my
email about moving my Hydrangea. I will do as you say as I am very
keen for it to survive! Thanks again LizAnswered on 10/26/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Hello Liz, The best time to move established shrubs is in the autumn when the soil is still warm but the plant isn't in full active growth - so now is perfect. Begin by marking a circle around the shrub, as wide as the widest branch. Dig a trench along the line of this circle. Use a fork to loosen the soil around the root ball as you go to reduce its
size and weight so that it becomes manageable. When the root ball looks about the right size that you can still move it but there are still a lot of roots intact, begin to under cut the root ball with a sharp spade to sever the biggest woody roots. Roll up the root ball in sacking or plastic to protect the roots from damage and drying out. Move the shrub to a pre determined position. It is important to have the site ready so that you can transplant the shrub at once and it isn't left for hours (or worse!) drying out. Remove the sacking and plant the shrub in the new hole, at the depth at which it was previously planted. Firm well, water well and mulch with a good thick layer of well rotted farmyard manure. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 10/26/2009 by ldavidson
Q:Hydrangea not flowering
Hi I have a Hydrangea in my garden. For a few years it was in a pot but for some reason, it only ever seem to flower every other year. The autumn before last, I planted it in the border as it was getting too big to leave in a pot. It didn't flower last year so I was expecting it to bloom this year but it hasn't got a single flower. Around the beginning of the year I noticed the slugs had had a go at it as it was looking poorly. However, I sorted that problem and the foliage is looking really healthy but it still hasn't got a single flower. Any ideas about what could have gone wrong, please? Thanks SylviaAsked on 7/29/2009 by Sylvia Styles
A:Hello Sylvia, There are a number of reasons why plants don't flower, but the most likely cause of your problems are either a late frost killing off the buds, or it could be pruning at the wrong time of the year. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 7/30/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Make the most of over 3000 years of gardening tradition by creating an oriental-style garden. Originally designed as a place for intellectual contemplation and meditation, they are an ideal sanctuary from the pressures of modern living. Japanese gardens aRead full article
Many shrubs, trees and climbers are showing signs of growth, so it is an ideal time to check them over for winter damage. If you feel they need a little care and attention, here are a few notes to use as a pruning guide. during April.Read full article
Hydrangeas come in many guises, but the blue and pink mopheads and lacecaps that flower in summer are generally forms of Hydrangea macrophylla, an Asian species that prefers lots of summer rainfall and drier winters. This can be tricky in drier gardens, bRead full article