Euonymus europaeus 'Red Cascade'
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: any well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: May and June
- Hardiness: fully hardy
A large deciduous shrub, a native of European hedgerows, from which the wood was traditionally used for making spindles. This plant really comes into its own in autumn and winter, when its dark green leaves turn blazing scarlet. Insignificant summer flowers are followed by gorgeous, orange-pink, winged fruit which remain long after the leaves have fallen. Plant it in view of the house, where its vibrant display can be appreciated. It's also wonderful in a winter border among early-flowering bulbs or shrubs grown for winter interest. The autumn colour is spectacular in full sun, but 'Red Cascade' will grow reasonably well in partial shade.
- Garden care: Tip prune young plants in mid to late spring to encourage bushy growth and apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant.
- Harmful if eaten
Do you want to ask a question about this?If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
Q:I have had a spindle berry bush/tree for the last 3 years and each year had it has had masses of flowers on it., but these have not developed into the gorgeous berries in the autumn. There are no other spindal berries bushes in the neighbourhood.
It has been well cared for, and looks very healthy. Should I be giving it a specific feed? or does it need a companion to cross fertilise it?Asked on 20/6/2016 by honeybottom from north herts.
These plants are self-fertile and do not need a pollinating partner, so it seems very strange that such a healthy plant would not produce its fruit - particularly as yours flowers so prolifically. The only thing you can do is make sure it gets plenty of water throughout the summer, and try giving it a feed of sulphate of potash just to give it a bit of a push.Answered on 23/6/2016 by Helen from crocus
Q:I have this in my garden, the previous house owner planted it between a shed and a 6 ft fence, 9inches from both! I would love to move it, to enjoy its beauty. How easy do you think it would be to move it successfully, assuming I can get between the gap! Thank you.Asked on 4/10/2015 by sweetpea from SE England
It really depends on how long it has been there. If you think it was planted within the last year or two, then the chances are reasonably good -provided you can get a good sized rootball. If however it has been planted for a long time, then I suspect you will be better off starting again from scratch.Answered on 5/10/2015 by Helen from crocus
How big would this be on delivery please and could it be trained into a more tree like shape than a bush? I would like it bare at the bottom with more if a canopy, is that possible? How many years would it take to establish and reach a good height?
I have looked at the larger size but have a bare garden and I'm having to buy a lot of plants so my funds won't really stretch to that right now.
Many thanks.Asked on 29/3/2015 by LI from North Yorkshire
This plant comes in a 2lt pot and will be approx 30cm when delivered.
It can be trained into a tree form by removing some of the lower branches as it grows. Unfortunately it is impossible to say how long it will take to reach maturity, as so many factors can affect a plants growth, but it can take between 10-20 years.
Hope this helps.Answered on 2/4/2015 by Anonymous
Q:Shrubs with orange berries?
I am looking for shrubs which have orange berries with no thorns, - the berries must not be poisonous, and I need it to grow to 1.5m in semi shade. Please can you advise which plants I should consider. Thanks JohnAsked on 10/3/2010 by John Goldschmidt
A:Hello John, I'm afraid I cant think of anything that will meet all your criteria, however the following might be worthy of consideration. Euonymus europaeus Red Cascade http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/euonymus-europaeus-red-cascade/classid.3813/ Skimmia japonica subsp. reevesiana http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/skimmia-japonica-subsp.-reevesiana/classid.4389/ I'm sorry not to be more help. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 11/3/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Euonymus europaeus 'Red Cascade' problem
Dear Crocus, Some weeks ago I took delivery (exceptional packing incidentally) of two shrubs - a Potentilla and a Euonymus europaeus 'Red Cascade'. The Potentilla was fine and is thriving. The Euonymus did not look so great when it was unpacked and had indications of either having been subjected to rain and then exposed to dust or had it a touch of mildew? After planting it didn't progress and I thought it might have been suffering from a powdery mildew. It was given plenty of TLC,- fed and treated with proprietary fungal pesticide. It has grown but continues to look a bit poorly with leaf curl and some leaf fall. I have read that this shrub has tendencies towards mildew. Like most gardeners I have had my share of successes and a few disappointments. That is what gardening is all about. What I am looking for is your advice as to the chances of this shrub recovering. What might I do? Should I cut my losses and choose something else with lesser risk? The soil is neutral and it's location offers equal periods of partial shade and full sun. I look forward to hearing from you. With thanks HaroldAsked on 28/9/2009 by HAROLD SELLORS
A:Hello Harold, We do suffer from limescale from our hard water on the nursery and this will leave white, powdery marks on the leaves and I wonder if this is the cause of the discolouration on yours. If it does have powdery mildew, then it is unlikely to cause any serious problems, but you should try to improve the air circulation and make sure the soil does not get too dry. The leaves are starting to die back naturally now, so I would not be too alarmed, but as they drop you should collect them and remove them from the garden. I have added some notes to your order about your concerns, so if the plant does not put on lots of new, healthy growth in spring, then please take a picture and send it in to us so we can have a look. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 28/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
The garden is at its most dormant right now, so it’s a good time to catch up on any pruning missed or forgotten since the autumn. If the weather isn’t favourable, you can leave it for a week or two, but make sure all winter pruning is completed before theRead full article
Come autumn the flowers may be fading away, eclipsed by shorter and cooler days, but there’s still plenty of foliage whether on the ground, or held aloft against a sinking sun. Touches of lipstick-red, sombre-burgundy, orange-peel and mustard-seed glow inRead full article
As frost descends and the leaves gather on the lawn, the most important colour is red because it glows against the backdrop of fading stems in muddy shades of khaki, grey and brown. Red’s the colour that fixes the rest of the palette and luckily red berriRead full article