Elaeagnus × ebbingei 'Limelight'

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  • Position: full sun or partial shade
  • Soil: fertile, well-drained soil
  • Rate of growth: average
  • Flowering period: October and November
  • Hardiness: fully hardy

    Young green leaves mature to lime-green and yellow-splashed centres, while the creamy-white, autumn flowers fill the air with their fragrance. This versatile, variegated plant is ideal for illuminating dark areas of the shrub border or for growing as an informal hedge and the foliage is excellent for flower arranging. One of the toughest evergreen shrubs, it copes well with dry soil and salt-laden air.

  • Garden care: To keep hedging specimens tidy in late summer cut back long or misplaced shoots using secateurs. Remove any plain green-leaved shoots as soon as they appear, cutting them back to the origin.

Sarcococca confusa

sweet box

Sweetly scented, pure white flowers December to March

£4.99 Buy

Choisya ternata Sundance ('Lich') (PBR)

Mexican orange blossom

Cheerful, bright yellow evergreen foliage

£12.99 Buy

Galanthus nivalis

common snowdrop bulbs

A favourite for late winter

£3.49 Buy

Clematis 'Black Prince'

clematis (group 3)

Beautiful deep purple flowers

£12.99 Buy

Ceanothus thyrsiflorus 'Skylark'

Californian lilac

A haze of bright blue flowers in early summer

£12.99 Buy
 

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10 Questions | 11 Answers
Displaying questions 1-10
  • Q:

    Hedging Advice

    Dear Crocus Helpline We are looking for hedging ideas for the bottom of our garden with the aim of providing screening which can be easily maintained at around 10 feet tall. The soil is clay, and standing water tends to collect in one small area when we have very heavy rainfall. We have the usual wood feather board fencing in place which we need to retain, but there is no other planting to consider apart from lawn (in fact the garden is nothing but lawn!). The area we need to plant measures approx 11mt across. As our budget is tight, we need suggestions for smaller, fast-growing plants, rather than mature, slow-growing ones to give us the screening asap. We look forward to hearing from you in due course. With thanks
    Asked on 4/13/2010 by Selina Edwards

    2 answers

    • A:

      Hello There, The cheapest option will be the bare-root whips, but these are only sold when the plants are completely dormant from autumn to early spring. Failing that you can buy 2 or 3lt pots, which should be planted at 30cm intervals if you want a nice, dense hedge. If the soil remains waterlogged for any length of time, you will have problems getting most plants to grow, but from what you say it doesn't sound too boggy, so I would recommend the following:- Crataegus http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/hedging/crataegus-monogyna-/classid.1044/ Elaeagnus http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/hedging/elaeagnus-%C3%97-ebbingei-limelight/classid.3775/ Prunus laurocerassus http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/hedging/prunus-laurocerasus-rotundifolia/classid.4306/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

      Answered on 4/15/2010 by Selina Edwards
    • A:

      Dear Helen Thanks you so much for your prompt reply. We will look forward to looking into your suggestions.

      Answered on 4/16/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
  • Q:

    Problem with Elaeagnus x ebbingei 'Limelight'

    Dear Crocus, I have a large Elaeagnus shrub in my garden which is starting to look very sickly in parts. The shrub I would say is around 10ft high and 6ft wide and has been in the garden for more than 10 years. Some of the leaves are pale and droopy, and some have a sooty grey look on the underside. What may be causing this and what should I do Thank you Claire
    Asked on 4/11/2010 by CLAIRE LAWTON

    1 answer

  • Q:

    Hedging ideas

    Hello and hope you can help,- I'm a novice and a hopeless gardener hoping to learn quickly. Do you have any suggestions for mixed hedging for an approx 60 feet boundary? No preference or favourites, though a bit of colour would be appreciated at some time in the seasons but it needs to grow to at least five feet preferably six feet high and act as a barrier to human. I would like it to attract wildlife, particularly the birds and provide some year round interest with colour (hopefully). Lawrence
    Asked on 3/14/2010 by lawrence dixon

    1 answer

  • Q:

    Hedging and Osmanthus plants

    Dear Crocus, I am looking for two Osmanthus burkwoodii plants but notice on your website that you only offer them for sale in 2 litre size. Do you have any larger Osmanthus burkwoodii plants? I am also looking for suggestions on which plants would make a good hedge. I am looking for something hardy, able to stand the frost, evergreen, not poisonous to horses and if possible, not just green possibly red / purple or variegated, any thoughts? Also, as these plants are grown in Surrey, will they be suitable to grow in the Scottish Borders? Many thanks, Jane
    Asked on 11/29/2009 by Janey Mitch

    1 answer

    • A:

      Hello Jane, I'm afraid we have all the plants we sell displayed on our website so we do not sell larger sizes of the Osmanthus. As for the hedging, if you click on the link below it will take you to our full range of hedging plants. Unfortunately we do not have anything that meets all your criteria, but if you click on the smaller images it will give you a lot more information on hardiness levels (fully hardy means they can cope with the weather in Scotland) as well as leaf colour etc. Unfortunately though I do not have a list of plants which are not poisonous to horses, but your local vet may be able to help you with this. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/hedging/plcid.30/ Best regards, Helen Plant Doctor

      Answered on 11/30/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
  • Q:

    Tomatoes not ripening?

    Hi there, I wonder if you can help. This year I am growing the tomato variety "Shirley" in the greenhouse. They are very healthy and laden with fruit, but they are not ripening. Regards. Kate
    Asked on 7/17/2009 by kate roberts

    1 answer

    • A:

      Hello Kate, There is something called Dry Set, which means the growth of the tomatoes stops when they are still very small. This is brought about by the air being too hot and dry when pollination is taking place, and the best way to cure this is to mist the plants with water twice a day - in the morning and evening.

      Answered on 7/17/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
  • Q:

    Screening in pots

    Hi there I'm looking for screening ideas. I'm having a raised deck built and I would like some privacy from the neighbours, can any of the hedges be grown in troughs?
    Asked on 6/28/2009 by Michael Mullen

    1 answer

    • A:

      Hello There, Many of the hedging plants can be grown in really large pots, as long as you make sure the plants are kept really well fed and watered. The following are some of the best options. Photinia, Elaeagnus, Prunus laurocerassus, Pyracantha and Phyllostachys I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

      Answered on 7/4/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
  • Q:

    What tough plants can I grow in big pots?

    I am looking for plants to fill up some outdoor planters facing a carpark. I want something tough please - can you give me 2 to 3 options?
    Asked on 2/6/2006 by Fung

    1 answer

  • Q:

    Which plants are Deer proof?

    I want a list of Deer proof plants please. It`s either a change in habitat or environment, but I get total devastation now and in the last two years they come up the drive.
    Asked on 2/3/2006 by david

    1 answer

    • A:

      Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful, but it is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual tastes which might like the bitter taste! Below is a list of good plants that generally are quite successful though. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Elaeagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally, fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer eat roses and some thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly will exclude them. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.

      Answered on 2/6/2006 by Crocus
  • Q:

    What can I plant in a pot?

    I am having problems with hooligans throwing stones at my patio windows. Can you suggest a small tree or shrub that will grow to around 2 - 2.5m high that can be placed in a large pot in front of the windows to help deter them?
    Asked on 5/4/2005 by peter davies

    1 answer

  • Q:

    What can I plant that the deers won't eat?

    What types of plants do deer not like? If you could help me out I could greatly appreciate it.
    Asked on 3/18/2005 by Kelly L. Sliker

    1 answer

    • A:

      Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful. It is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual taste which might like a bitter taste, but the following is a list of plants that generally are quite successful. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Eleagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer do eat roses and some other thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly tend to keep them out. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.

      Answered on 3/21/2005 by Crocus
Displaying questions 1-10

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