Cornus sanguinea 'Midwinter Fire'
midwinter fire dogwood
- Position: full sun to part shade
- Soil: any moderately fertile soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: June
- Hardiness: fully hardy
The green leaves of this upright, deciduous shrub turn bright shades of orange-yellow in autumn, before they fall to reveal spectacular orange, red and yellow bare stems. Position in full sun for best colour.
- Garden care: For best stem colour, cut the stems back hard to within 5-7cm (2-3in) from the ground in March and apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or horse manure around the base of the plant.
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Q:I'm keen to plant some Cornus sanguinea in a north-easterly facing border close to my house, but it will mean the plants will be shaded for much of the afternoon. Is this something that they can tolerate?Asked on 5/1/2016 by Beginningtogrow from Hampshire
These plant will tolerate partial shade so as long as they receive some sun they should be fine. Hope this helps.Answered on 6/1/2016 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:Would it be possible to grow these in containers on our decking or are they not suitable for containers/pots?Asked on 10/3/2015 by cornuscopia from Sandwich Kent
Ideally they would be better grown in the ground, but as long as they are in large pots and kept well watered, as they won't like to dry out, and fed they should be ok.
Hope this helps.Answered on 12/3/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:Can you tell me whether Midwinter Fire Dogwood spreads? I think it would look good on the perimeter of my garden but don't want it to spread into the border.Asked on 17/3/2013 by Daisy from Chelmsford
This shrub forms a clump about 80cm across, but it does not spread so wont take over your whole garden.Answered on 18/3/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:I have just bought three cornus sanguinea midwinterfire - how far apart should I plant them? Thank you.Asked on 26/2/2013 by deb from East Sussex
A:It depends on the look you are going for, if you want the plants to knit together to form what looks like one bush I would recommend that you plant them at about 40cm apart. If you would like each plant to stand on its own without growing into the other I would recommend planting them at about 1 metre apart.Answered on 26/2/2013 by Steve
Q:Creating a Winter Garden
Dear Crocus I am wanting to create a " winter garden " area and fancy an Acer griseum as the central feature. I had thought of planting a Cornus Midwinter Fire and Bergenia 'Bressingham Ruby' to complement the scheme but I would welcome any other suggestions please. Many thanks ClaireAsked on 26/2/2010 by CLAIRE LAWTON
A:Hello Claire, If you click on the following link it will take you to all our winter flowering plants. I would definitely recommend hellebores and snowdrops, perhaps some Cyclamen and and Euonymus fortunei for foliage colour. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/vid.204/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 1/3/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Specimen Ceanothus or another large bushy shrub....
Good afternoon, When I was first looking for a Ceanothus to replace the one we have in our front garden, I looked on your website, but you only had small ones. Our once lovely Ceanothus has been pruned out of all recognition again this year, as I planted it a bit too near our boundary when it was a baby. I know it may come back, but it is getting ridiculous as every time it grows back it has to be cut back again severely and then ooks a mess for most of the year. Have you got a nice, tall, bushy Ceanothus to replace it? I love my Ceanothus but perhaps if you don't have a big one, do you have another large, flowering shrub as an alternative? Hope you can help Regards MargaretAsked on 5/12/2009 by D DRAKETT
A:Hello Margaret, it is rare to find larger sized Ceanothus as they are usually quite short-lived and don't normally live longer than 6 - 8 years. We do have a selection of larger shrubs on our site like Hamamelis, Hydrangeas, Magnolias, Acer, Cornus, Cotinus, Philadelphus, Syringa and Viburnum, so you may find something of interest. They will be listed in this section. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 8/12/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Which plants are Deer proof?
I want a list of Deer proof plants please. It`s either a change in habitat or environment, but I get total devastation now and in the last two years they come up the drive.Asked on 3/2/2006 by david
A:Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful, but it is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual tastes which might like the bitter taste! Below is a list of good plants that generally are quite successful though. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Elaeagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally, fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer eat roses and some thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly will exclude them. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.Answered on 6/2/2006 by Crocus
Q:What can I plant that the deers won't eat?
What types of plants do deer not like? If you could help me out I could greatly appreciate it.Asked on 18/3/2005 by Kelly L. Sliker
A:Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful. It is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual taste which might like a bitter taste, but the following is a list of plants that generally are quite successful. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Eleagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer do eat roses and some other thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly tend to keep them out. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.Answered on 21/3/2005 by Crocus
Q:Can I prune my dogwood now?
I have a small Cornus florida that was planted in the Autumn. It is bushier than I would like as I want a tree rather than shrub. Its starting to bud now and I probably should have pruned it in the winter, but is it too late now?Asked on 17/3/2005 by Richard Stanaro
A:Ideally you should prune this Cornus in late winter or early spring. However you may still get away with it if you do it very soon. Just cut back the branches you don't want by pruning to an outward facing bud.Answered on 21/3/2005 by Crocus
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