Empathy rose rootgrow

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This is the first and currently the only plant or soil treatment to be licensed by The Royal Horticultural Society.

RHS Gardeners find plants treated with Rootgrow....
  • Have superior plant establishment with better natural vigour
  • Overcome re-plant problems more successfully
  • Have better developed root systems
  • Are better able to cope with conditions of drought
  • A single application of Rootgrow will support a plant for its its entire lifetime.

    Specific Benefits to roses.
    Over the last few years the benefits of treating roses with rootgrow at planting time has been well documented. Using rootgrow with roses will not just help them to establish well and produce a good show of flowers but it will also also enable gardeners to grow roses in soil that has previously had roses growing in it. Now established throughout the UK as a standard treatment for roses rootgrow has reported to be successful in combating the problem of rose replant disease or rose soil sickness.

    How do mycorrhizal (pronounced my-cor-y-zal) fungi benefit plants?
    In its simplest sense mycorrhizal fungi do everything plant roots do, just better. When new plants are planted with Rootgrow it takes only 2-4 weeks under normal conditions for these fungi to start benefiting plants. In that time they attach themselves to the plant's root system and grow out rapidly into the soil, searching for nutrients and water. They essentially become part of the plant's own root system.

    The benefits to plants are;

    Better nutrient uptake.
    These fungi are so much thinner and finer than the plant's own roots they can therefore find nutrients in the soil far more efficiently than the plant's own coarse roots. They are especially good at finding nutrients responsible for flowering and fruiting such as Phosphorus and Potassium. As they can explore a much greater amount of soil than the plant's own roots they are also far more likely to find trace elements and the rare nutrients that all plants need to grow well.

    Drought tolerance.
    Mycorrhizal fungi are an essential part of a plant's ability to combat drought. Leaves and stems have developed mechanisms to combat drought such as silver leaves, waxy leaves and hairy leaves but these adaptations on their own aren't enough if the plant doesn't have its friendly fungal partner on its roots. Mycorrhizal fungi hold onto water in soils like a sponge.

    Establishment in difficult soils
    Mycorrhizal fungi will enable plants to establish and thrive even in difficult soils. In poor sandy soils the mycorrhizal fungi will be able to find scarce nutrients and hold onto water. In clay soils these fungi will be able to unlock nutrients from the soil acting like a clay breaker.

    Useage Guidelines
  • for a 4-5 litre rose use 50 grams of rootgrow (a 60 gram sachet will cover approx. 1-2 plants).

    Empathy is about making a choice to garden with minimal use of chemicals whilst maximising plant growth and health. Empathy products are biological, they will benefit your plants not just over a few months but through their lifetime and are designed to treat the soil as well as the plant. Empathy supports the RHS mission for 'Sharing the best in Gardening'.

  • There are currently no 'goes well with' suggestions for this item.


    by PowerReviews
    Empathy rose rootgrow

    (based on 1 review)

    Ratings Distribution

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    • 1 Stars



    Reviewed by 1 customer

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    It works!

    By MariaS

    from London

    Verified Buyer


    • Accelerated Growth
    • Easy to Use
    • Organic
    • Roses Have Grown Strongly
    • Used It To Plant Roses


      Best Uses

      • Flower Gardens

      Comments about Empathy rose rootgrow:

      It seems to work well as my roses have grown strongly and fast

      • Your Gardening Experience:
      • Experienced

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      Do you want to ask a question about this?

      If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
      5 Questions | 6 Answers
      Displaying questions 1-5
      • Q:

        Hello, I'm going to remove old roses in October and plant new roses. The ground has not been treated for many years. What should I do to properly prepare the ground ? Thank you. Stan. Povall
        Asked on 26/7/2013 by Stan. from Liverpool

        1 answer

        • Plant Doctor



          Roses suffer from something called replant disease. This means that newly planted roses wont thrive in soil where roses have previously been established. The only way around this is to replace the soil that surrounds the roots (approximately 60cm in diameter and 30cm deep) and use things like the mycorrhizal fungi to help get them settled in. There has been some reports that planting your new roses into cardboard boxes (with their bases removed) and then planting these into the ground will also help.

          Answered on 29/7/2013 by Helen from Crocus
      • Q:

        How do I use rootgrow to prevent replant syndrome? Do I put it into the hole or do I dip the roots in it first?
        Asked on 8/3/2013 by Mardler from Bury St Edmunds

        1 answer

        • Plant Doctor



          When planting, it is important that the roses roots come into direct contact with the Rose Rootgrow. Therefore, just before you position the rose into the planting hole, the Rootgrow should be sprinkled either over the surface of the soil or onto the roots themselves.

          Answered on 11/3/2013 by Helen from Crocus
      • Q:

        Rootgrow when to use?

        Can you tell me whether Rootgrow has to be used in the hole when you plant out new plants or if can be used on newly planted or established plants. Thanks, Mary
        Asked on 6/4/2010 by Mary Pooley

        1 answer

        • A:

          Hello Mary, To work effectively, the fungi has to come into direct contact with the roots of the plant. Therefore you should only really use it when planting out new things. If however you have an ailing plant in the garden, you could try planting something next to it using the rootgrow. As it grows the new plants roots may merge into the established plant and the fungi may then attach itself to the older plants roots - but this is a bit hit and miss and will take a long time. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

          Answered on 8/4/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
      • Q:

        Can I use Rootgrow on established Roses?

        Can Rootgrow be usefully used on established roses? If not, please could you advise me as to what I should use on them at this time of year, to help next year's flowering? Sarah
        Asked on 19/11/2009 by Sarah Craig

        2 answers

        • A:

          Hello Sarah, Rootgrow should only really be used when you are first
          planting as it needs to come into contact with the roots. At this time
          of the year the best thing you can do for established roses is apply a
          generous layer of composted organic matter as a mulch. I hope this
          helps. Helen Plant Doctor

          Answered on 20/11/2009 by Sarah Craig
        • A:

          Thankyou for your suggestion that I apply composted organic matter to my roses. I will do this. Sarah

          Answered on 20/11/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
      • Q:

        How do I prune my rose?

        I have a rose but I don't know how to prune it - can you advise?
        Asked on 25/2/2005 by Sharon Wallis

        1 answer

        • A:

          Rose pruning can seem bewildering when you're new to gardening. But it's really simple once you know why you're doing it and what type of rose you are tackling. The reason roses need pruning is to keep them shapely, healthy and flowering well. As I don't know which type of rose you have, below is a guide to all the pruning groups. All roses can be divided into four groups that have slightly different pruning requirements: bush roses including all hybrid teas and floribundas, patio roses and most standards; shrub roses, including species and old-fashioned roses as well as rose hedges; climbing roses; and rambler roses including weeping standards. What to prune now:- All bush roses, patio roses and most standards ??Any shrub roses and hedges that were left to produce attractive hips ??Any climbing roses that were left to produce attractive hips then the golden rules of pruning 1.Always use the right tools: tackle stems up to 1cm thick (1/2in) with good-quality secateurs; 1-3cm (1/2-1 1/4in) using long-handled loppers; and stems over 3cm (1 1/4in) using a pruning saw. 2.Always make sure the blades are sharp to make cuts without crushing or bruising the stems. 3.Always make sure the blades are clean to prevent the spread of diseases - wipe the blades with disinfectant after pruning out diseased wood. Traditional pruning advice dictates that each cut should be made to just above (about 3mm) an outward-facing bud using a slanting cut that helps protect the bud and shed water. However, recent research by the Royal National Rose Society amongst others has shown such precise attention to detail isn't really necessary when dealing with most roses. Pruning bush roses:- A common error made by beginners is to confuse shrub (see below) and bush roses. Bush roses includes all hybrid tea (sometimes referred to as 'large-flowered') and floribunda ('cluster-flowered') roses, as well as patio roses and rose varieties grown as standards. These should be pruned in late winter or early spring when the weather is not too frosty. Newly planted bush roses should be cut back to within 15cm (6in) of ground level after planting. Thereafter prune your roses hard back each year reducing stems to within 30cm (12in) of the base, or at the most to around knee height. Aim to keep the centre of the bush uncluttered by cutting out all the dead and diseased stems first, as well as any that are spindly and overcrowding. A quick method of pruning using secateurs, shears, or even a hedgetrimmer is gaining in popularity with busy gardeners. With this method you simply reduce all the stems back roughly (not worrying about cutting above a bud) to 30-45cm (12-18in). It seems that the plants don't suffer - at least in the short term - and such rough treatment increases flower production the following year. Standard roses are just bush roses on a leg and should be treated as such when pruning. Cut them back during late winter or early spring, reducing the main framework of stems by about one-third, and thin out side-shoots that are becoming congested. However, weeping standards should be pruned after flowering like rambler roses (see below). Patio roses don't need much pruning at all. If they get too big give them a general trim, removing any dead stems while you're at it. Pruning bush roses step-by-step 1.Remove all dead, diseased and weak growth. 2.If the plant is still congested select the framework of four or five well-spaced young vigorous stems you wish to keep that will create a neat cup-shaped arrangement once pruned. Remove any unwanted older stems. 3.Prune back the selected framework to within 45cm (18in) of the ground, cutting to just above an outward-facing bud using a slanting cut. Pruning shrub roses:- Shrub roses, which include the species and old-fashioned roses, should be pruned after flowering. Newly planted specimens do not require pruning other than removing broken and diseased stems. Thereafter, it's not so much pruning as long-deadheading really. Simply cut back each stem with its fading bloom with 15-20cm (6-8in) of stem attached. This will keep the plants compact and shapely. It's also worth removing old and flowerless stems right back to a younger side-shoot lower down. Old, neglected plants that have been allowed to become leggy should have a few of their oldest stems cut right back to within 15cm (6in) of the ground to encourage new shoots to be produced from the base. Shrub roses grown as informal hedges can be pruned in the same way to maintain dense growth, or use a hedgetrimmer after flowering is over if you want a more formal look. Bear in mind that any shrub roses grown for their hips should not be pruned until winter or early spring. Pruning climbing roses:- Climbing roses can be divided into two groups: those that bloom all in one go during early summer and the rest which flower more than once, sometimes on and off all summer long. Those in the once-flowering group produce flowers on old wood and should be pruned after flowering. First remove all diseased and dead wood. Then, prune vigorous plants hard by removing one in three of the main stems starting with the oldest. Cut them back to a newer sideshoot produced lower down. Finally, trim back the flowered sideshoots on all the stems that are left to within two or three buds of the main framework. Less vigorous varieties are best deadheaded only. Repeat-flowering climbing roses bear their flowers on short sideshoots produced during the current season on an established framework of branches. Pruning is not normally necessary although regular deadhead where practical will improve the display. However, if they are being grown for their attractive hips any trimming should be left until winter or early spring. Then, cut back the flowered sideshoots on all the stems to within two or three buds of the main framework. Pruning rambler roses:- All ramblers produce a single flush of flowers in summer. The flowers are borne on growth that was produced last year. Most will readily produce vigorous young shoots from the base forming an impenetrable thicket if left unpruned. To keep ramblers accessible and blooming well it is worth thinning out one-in-three stems after flowering starting with the oldest. Cut back to within 7-10cm (2-3in) of the main framework or to ground level. If there are insufficient new stems, cut back the older stems to a newer sideshoot near the base of the plant. Less vigorous varieties are best simply deadheaded. Weeping standard roses are produced by budding a rambler on top of an upright stem. These should be pruned after flowering by shortening the oldest main stems to a newer shoot nearer the crown and thin out side-shoots that are becoming congested. Pruning groundcover roses:- With groundcover roses the aim is to get a thick carpet of flowering stems. Pruning is, therefore, usually unnecessary except to remove unwanted upright growths. Use a pair of shears or a hedgetrimmer for a speedy trim. Aftercare:- Clear away all prunings to prevent carryover of disease. With standards, climbers and ramblers check ties and supports and adjust or replace as necessary. Feed after pruning in early spring by applying a proprietary rose fertiliser at the recommended rate over the ground around roses. This will encourage vigorous disease-resistant new growth. Mulch the soil with a 5-7cm (2-3in) layer of well-rotted organic matter taking care not to pile the material against the plants' stems.

          Answered on 25/2/2005 by Crocus
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      Planting roses during late autumn and winter

      Roses get away extremely well when planted in their dormant season, between November and early March. Although they will be delivered potted up (to help keep the roots moist), the compost will fall away from the roots as you remove the rose from the pot a

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