Rosa rugosa 'Rubra'
rose (shrub) - Hedging range
- Position: full sun
- Soil: fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: July to September
- Flower colour: purplish-red
- Other features: excellent cut-flowers
- Hardiness: fully hardy
The Royal Horticultural Society bare root hedging range is a very low cost way of planting a hedge. The bare root plants are only available to buy and plant when dormant. (November-March) These plants, with known seed provenence, are grown in 220 acres of rich Herefordshire soil. As they are dispatched directly from the fields, rather than through a nursery, they are much fresher than imported or even stored plants. RHS bare root plants are grown through low input horticultural methods. Plants are rotated with pigs annually, to improve soil condition. Water is harvested in the winter for use in the summer. No heat or polytunnels are used and, as the plants are dispatched direct from the fields, transport is kept to a minimum.
To find out more about how to plant a hedge, click here
Masses of fragrant, single, yellow-centred, purplish-red flowers from July to September, followed by attractive, tomato-shaped, red or orange-red rose-hips. This vigorous, repeat-flowering species rose is ideal for wilder areas of the garden. An excellent, informal, flowering hedge for an open, sunny site, the leathery, dark-green leaves turn butter-gold in autumn.
Please note that as we grow the hedging especially for you, we need to take full payment when you place your order so as to reserve stock for you. The bareroot plants will then be despatched to you during November.
All our roses are grown in an open field and then dug up when the weather conditions are right in October or November. Ideally they should be planted out as soon as possible. They will already have been cut back so no further pruning will be required, apart from snipping off any tips that have died back. Routine pruning can begin in late winter the year after planting.
- Garden care: If planting in winter, choose a frost-free spell when the soil is not frozen. Roses are quite deep-rooted plants so dig a deep hole roughly twice as wide as the plants roots and mix in a generous amount of composted organic matter. A top-dressing of a general purpose fertiliser can be worked into the surrounding soil and we also recommend using Rose Rootgrow at this stage to encourage better root development. This is particularly important when planting into a bed where roses have previously been grown as Rose Rootgrow is said to combat rose sickness (aka. replant disease).
Remove the plants from their pots and gently spread out the roots before placing them in the centre of the hole. Try to ensure that the 'bud union' (the point where the cultivated rose has been grafted onto the rootstock, and from where the shoots emerge) is at soil level. You can judge this quite easily by laying something flat, like a spade handle or bamboo cane, across the top of the hole. When they are at the right height, back-fill the hole, firming the soil down gently before watering the plant well.
Water generously until well established, and apply a specialist rose fertiliser (following the manufacturers instructions) each spring. They will also benefit from a generous mulch of composted farmyard manure in spring, but make sure this is kept away from the stems.
As most shrub roses tend to flowers best on older stems, they only need a little light formative pruning. Hard pruning should be avoided unless absolutely necessary as it can often ruin the plants shape. The best time to prune is in late summer after they have finished flowering. While wearing tough gloves, remove dead, damaged, diseased or congested branches completely. If the centre of the shrub is becoming congested, remove one or two of the older stems to their base. If they have become too leggy, then you can often encourage new growth to form by cutting one or two stems back to within 10 - 15cm above ground level.
There are currently no 'goes well with' suggestions for this item.
Do you want to ask a question about this?If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
Q:Madame 'Alfred Carriere' Rose- does it have thorns?
Hi there, the above rose would seem perfect for my garden, but I need to know one thing, ....is it thorny? I particularly want a thorny rose as I am planting it as a security aspect as well as for its looks. Many thanks, SharonAsked on 4/14/2010 by Sharon Boothroyde
A:Hello Sharon, These are beautiful roses and they do have thorns, but not masses of them. If you want as particularly thorny rose, then the Rosa rugosa species are the best - but they are large shrubs rather than climbers. http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.rugosa/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 4/14/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Disease resistant roses for a coastal area
Hi, Before I order some roses I need some information on which ones would grow well in our local conditions. I live in the far west of Cornwall, the soil is fairly acid,- Camellias grow well here. It's windy and the air is quite salt laden since we're not far from the sea. I'd like disease resistant plants if possilbe since the climbing roses by the cottage door do get black spot. At the moment, even here, where we hardly ever have a frost, there is 4 inches of snow on the ground and the temperature has been 0 to minus 1 for the past five days.... the postman hasn't reached us for four days! ...So, I won't be ordering the roses right now. Thanks, TrudiAsked on 1/9/2010 by Trudi Gurling
A:Hello Trudi, All roses need similar growing conditions, although a couple are slightly more tolerant of shade than others. If you click on the following link it will take you to all our roses that show some resistance to diseases. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/roses/plcid.8/vid.243/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 1/11/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Hedging and Osmanthus plants
Dear Crocus, I am looking for two Osmanthus burkwoodii plants but notice on your website that you only offer them for sale in 2 litre size. Do you have any larger Osmanthus burkwoodii plants? I am also looking for suggestions on which plants would make a good hedge. I am looking for something hardy, able to stand the frost, evergreen, not poisonous to horses and if possible, not just green possibly red / purple or variegated, any thoughts? Also, as these plants are grown in Surrey, will they be suitable to grow in the Scottish Borders? Many thanks, JaneAsked on 11/29/2009 by Janey Mitch
A:Hello Jane, I'm afraid we have all the plants we sell displayed on our website so we do not sell larger sizes of the Osmanthus. As for the hedging, if you click on the link below it will take you to our full range of hedging plants. Unfortunately we do not have anything that meets all your criteria, but if you click on the smaller images it will give you a lot more information on hardiness levels (fully hardy means they can cope with the weather in Scotland) as well as leaf colour etc. Unfortunately though I do not have a list of plants which are not poisonous to horses, but your local vet may be able to help you with this. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/hedging/plcid.30/ Best regards, Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 11/30/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Prickly hedge required
Dear Crocus, I am looking to grow a hedge in my garden. The purpose is that it looks good and stops intruders climbing over a wall so I would like nice prickly plants. I have looked at the 'Firethorns' - Pyracanthas, but are there any others that you sell that you would recommend? The location is on top of a wall and against a fence. I will either use troughs, railway sleeper or something similar to create a bed which I will then have to feed the plants myself. Are these plants suitable? Thank you for your assistance. AndrewAsked on 10/27/2009 by Andrew Baldwin
A:Hi Helen, Many thanks for your reply. What is the minimum soil depth, is
30-60 cm going to be workable if the hedge only needs to be approx 90cm
tall? Thank youAnswered on 10/27/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Hello Andrew, there are no hard and fast rules, but hedges are densely planted so there is a lot of competition for water, light and nutrients. Therefore I can only say the bigger the planter the better, and the smaller the root area, the higher the maintenance will be and the harder it will be to keep them alive. I'm sorry not to be more help. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 10/28/2009 by Andrew Baldwin
A:Hello Andrew, I am worried about the area you want to plant in which sounds very small. For the plants to grow to create a healthy hedge they will need space and soil depth. Pyracantha is good for hedging, but you may also like to look at Rosa rugosa or Berberis. Hope this helps Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 10/28/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Many flowering plants can be encouraged to produce better and longer-lasting displays with the minimum of effort. A plant produces flowers in order to reproduce and ensure the survival of the species. Once a plant has flowered and fertilisation has takenRead full article
Wildlife-friendly gardens are not only more interesting as you can watch all the comings and goings, but they are often more productive as many creatures will help increase pollination. Garden ponds act as a magnet to dragonflies and damsel flies, along wRead full article
Early-summer- flowering shrubs can be pruned this month to keep them vigorous and flowering well. It is also the ideal time to prune several trees that are prone to bleeding if pruned at other times, and it’s not too late to complete the pruning jobs forRead full article
The traditional cottage garden was an intensive, yet carefree mixture of fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers all crowded into a tiny space. Today, this informal charm can be recreated using modern varieties that largely take care of themselves around anRead full article
Early spring is a good time to start pruning roses The exact time will depend on where in the country you are and how cold it is. Pruning time is between mid-March through to early April, watch for when the buds start to swell, but before any leaves appeRead full article
Hybrid Musks mingle well with English honeysuckle and they are amongst the most fragrant and healthy. They perform from July onwards, after the main flush of most roses, so they are useful to the gardener. Hybrid Musks are still in the top drawer, despiteRead full article
At some stage in June, your garden will be a glorious affair full of scent and soft flower. Placing a posy from the garden, close to a family hub like the kitchen table, unites your home and garden as effectively as having a huge picture window. You don’tRead full article
The rose has been the nation’s favourite flower for centuries, prized for their fragrant blooms that make June the dreamiest month of the year. However late-autumn and winter, when these sleeping beauties are having their long rest, is the best time to pRead full article
Modern roses are generally bred to be repeat-flowering with a main flush in June, followed by further flowers throughout the season. These roses ration their flowers with five to six weeks between flushes, finishing with a late flourish in October, or eRead full article
Lots of roses escape black spot (Diplocarpon rosae) and they include Rugosa roses bred from a shrubby Japanese species found naturally on poor, sandy soil. These thrive in most gardens, although lime-rich soil will produce yellow, chlorotic foliage. OneRead full article
As the days shorten, the autumn sun sinks a little lower every day and begins to backlight the borders, picking up detail and silhouette. There’s plenty to enjoy and rosehips can provide the cherry on the cake, although they vary from red, to soft-orangeRead full article