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- Position: full sun
- Soil: will tolerate most soils, except very chalky or badly drained
- Rate of growth: slow growing
- Ultimate size on VVA-1 rootstock: 3 x 3m (10x10ft)
- Flowering period: April to May
- Flower colour: white
- Other features: a popular culinary plum with dark purple fruit (early August)
- Hardiness: fully hardy
One of the most popular culinary varieties available. White flowers are produced in spring, followed by a heavy crop of juicy, dark purple fruit with yellowish-green flesh. If the fruit is left on the tree to fully ripen, they can also be used as a dessert plum. It is a reliable variety with good frost resistance, is self-fertile and is easy to grow. This bush has been grafted onto VVA-1 rootstock, which produces a plant that is similar in size to those grafted onto 'Pixy' rootstock. They also tend to produce a higher yeild of larger fruit on plants that show a better winter hardiness.
- Garden care: When planting incorporate lots of well-rotted garden compost in the planting hole and stake firmly.
Stone fruits like the plums should be pruned in the summer because they are prone to a disease called Silver Leaf which enters through cuts. If you prune in late summer, the sap is slowing but is still running fast enoughenough to seal up any wounds. Check and remove any damaged, diseased or broken branches.
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4 Questions | 4 Answers
Displaying questions 1-4
Q:I am looking for a fruit tree other than a fig that would take well to being in a pot on a patio and trained on an espalier up a wall - the wall gets very hot during summer but is pretty dark from autumn through winter. Many thanks,
EmmaAsked on 30/9/2013 by tilly123 from gloucestershire
The best option might be a tayberry as it tolerates partials shade and can easily be trained against a wall. Please click on the following link to go straight to it. Figs unfortunately like the sunniest spot possible.
http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/tayberry-buckingham/classid.2000013090/Answered on 2/10/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Help with Plum tree disease?
I have two Victoria plum trees. For several years now the fruit has been blighted with what I think is 'brown spot'. The fruit that isn't blighted is delicious, but each year I have more diseased fruit than good. Is there anything I do to combat the problem? I have recently wondered whether to take the drastic step of chopping them down. Regards JoanAsked on 27/9/2009 by Anonymous
A:Hello Joan, Plums are prone to loads of different pests and diseases, and unfortunately I have not been able to diagnose what is troubling yours from your description. If however you go on to a specialist fruit suppliers website like Ken Muir which has an excellent section on common pests and diseases. Then click on Ask Ken, select Plums in Ken's Clinic and then from the descriptions and photos he has on the site you may be able to find out more. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 28/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:What is wrong with my Plum?
I have a Victoria plum tree (fan trained) and this year there is quite a good crop of plums, but many have turned into something more like prunes - rather sticky and purple coloured, with off-white coloured spots all over. Is there anything that I can do about this, perhaps for next year?Asked on 28/8/2006 by David Ellis
A:It sounds like your plum may have Brown Rot. The Brown Rot fungi affects almost all top fruits, particularly apples, pears, plums, peaches and nectarines. The fungi Sclerotinia fructigen (on apples) and Sclerotinia laxa (on other host plants) gains entry through injured skin. This initial injury can be caused by pecking birds, cracking due to frost or irregular growth and scab infections. The fungus can spread to adjacent healthy fruit by direct contact, or by insects, birds or rain splash that has come in to contact with the source of infection. Fruit can also contract the disease in storage. DAMAGE Brown Rot occurs as brown decaying patches (which later bear white concentric rings of spores) on ripening fruits. Infected fruits usually drop off, but sometimes remain attached to the tree and become mummified. CONTROL There are no chemicals available to control this disease. However, preventative measures can be taken. All overwintering sources of infection should be removed and destroyed by the early spring. Fallen fruits, mummified fruits and the short section of the spur to which the fruit was attached should be removed and burned immediately. From May onwards the crop should be examined at regular intervals and any infected fruits should be destroyed. Avoid or minimise possible causes of injury to fruits by taking appropriate measures of pest control. Codling Moth is one of the major factors causing injury. The fungus gains easy entry into fruits through bird pecks and wasp bites. Netting will keep birds of the fruit and jam jars hung from trees can be used to trap wasps. Smear a small amount of jam inside the jar and fill it with soapy water. The fungus may also enter the fruit at the site of scab infection so control measures should be implemented against this disease. Fruit thinning will also reduce the spread of Brown Rot from one fruit to the other by contact. Fruit that is put in to storage should be unblemished and checked at regular intervals.Answered on 29/8/2006 by Crocus
Q:Can I grow a Plum in a large pot ?
Can I grow a plum in a large pot - and if so what variety is best?Asked on 19/6/2006 by Tom Hill
A:Most plum trees are grafted, and what rootstock they are grafted onto will determine their eventual height and spread. As the name suggests, plum trees grafted onto Pixie rootstock will produce a dwarfing tree, with an eventual height and spread of just 3 x 3m, so these are the best options for pots. These tend to do very well in large pots, provided they are kept well fed and watered.Answered on 20/6/2006 by Crocus
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