Jobs for April in the garden

Garden Designer Lucy Willcox

Written by: Ashley Edwards

April is the moment when spring truly lets herself be known. Blossoms dust the trees and the dawn skies are full of the sound of birdsong. Much like March however, April too can bring a surprise frost and even on occasion snow. So don’t be fooled into planting your tender plants out too early, protect them under cover until the end of the month at least and don’t get caught out by late frosts.

A beginner’s guide to Dahlias

Dahlia popularity has exploded over the last few years, and once you’ve grown them, you can see why. With glamourous-looking blooms in all colours and shapes, they provide late colour for hot sunny borders, containers, as well as providing armfuls of cut flowers in the home. If you’re growing dahlias for the first time, or are a little unsure on what the best way to treat them, then follow these steps to get the best results.

When your dahlias arrive, carefully unpackage them straight away and make sure they haven't been damaged in transit. The tubers may look dry and slightly wrinkly, but this is perfectly normal, they are full of potential. If you can't pot up your tubers straight away, then keep them somewhere dry, cool but frost-free.

Pot your tubers up as soon as possible in a free-draining compost. Use a 2-3 litre pot depending on the size of your tuber. You don’t want the tubers swimming in compost or they can rot, it’s better to start small and work your way up. You should plant your dahlias with the neck of the old stem just above the compost level, this is where the new shoots will form.

Place the pots somewhere bright, cool and frost-free: a greenhouse, cold frame or sunny windowsill. Water lightly at first as they rot far more easily than they dry out at this stage. Once shoots appear, you can gradually increase watering. When the shoots of the plant have reached 30-40cm, cut back the tops of your plant to 2-3 pairs of leaves. Although this can feel counter productive, this actually encourages the plant to branch, which will mean more flower buds. You can use the tips that you’ve cut off to create new plants. Place them in a well-drained compost, keep humid but not wet, and they will produce roots of their own and become whole new plants, genetically identical to the parent.

Dahlias

Refreshing your containers

By April, your containers may be looking a little tired. Pansies, violas and cyclamen do well until the temperatures start to heat up, but they may be passed their best. Spring bulbs are usually fading at this time of year and can be swapped out and planted into borders, allowing them to die back and reappear next year. You don't have to rip out your whole container, but now is a good time to give them a refresh.

Start by clearing out anything that's dying back or yellowing enough that you feel it needs replacing. Before adding new plants, it’s worth taking a moment to improve the compost. Containers lose nutrients quickly, so removing the top few centimetres and replacing it with fresh compost will make a noticeable difference. It’s a good idea to feed your containers with an organic liquid fertiliser, like liquid seaweed extract, through the growing season.

April is an ideal time to introduce seasonal bedding plants that thrive in the cool but lengthening days of spring. Plants such as tulips, bellis, forget-me-nots, wallflowers, and primroses can create vibrant displays that will last well into early summer. Tucking these amongst existing plants is often all that’s needed to transform a container.

Perennials can also play a valuable role in spring containers. Hardy plants like coral bells (Heuchera), hostas, small grasses, ferns, or compact geraniums provide texture and longevity. You could also add small shrubs like skimmia, late-flowering camellias, azaleas, miniature conifers, Californian lilacs (Ceanothus) and evergreen bittersweet (Euonymus) for structure and colour. This combination keeps containers looking fresh while ensuring there is something to enjoy beyond a single season.

It’s best to wait to plant tender container plants like petunias, marigolds and pelargoniums until late May to avoid any risk of frost damage.

When planting your container, think about balance. You want to have height (sometimes called a thriller) , a mid-layer, made up of bedding plants or perennials (your filler) and then something to gently tumble over the edge of the pot (spiller). Place your container near a doorway, on a patio, or somewhere you’ll appreciate it the most.

Pots & containers

Pots & containers

Shop now

Spring & summer bedding plants

Spring & summer bedding plants

Shop now

Top tips to defend your plants against slugs

Most insects that visit our garden are beneficial. Even so-called ‘pests’ are an important part of the food chain, without them we wouldn't have birds, bats, hedgehogs, frogs, toads and other creatures we enjoy seeing in our gardens.

Problems only occur when there is an imbalance in populations of critters like aphids, slugs, snails, vine weevils, that then subsequently feed on plants and cause significant damage.

By encouraging beneficial insects you can keep pest damage at a minimum, but it is important to tolerate a small population of these plant eating insects, to allow for natural predators to maintain a balanced ecosystem

There are natural and cultural methods you can try to help slow down the damage caused. Watering in the morning rather than evening makes the garden less attractive to nocturnal slugs and snails. You can catch slugs and snails in the evenings and transport them to a wild space, far from your garden (don’t be tempted to throw them over the neighbour’s fence as they’ll only find their way back).

Leave small patches of wild areas in your garden to encourage natural predators and if you can add a pond (even a small tub in the ground with some plants) you’ll encourage frogs, toads and other wildlife who love to feed on slugs and snails.

When growing vegetable plants, I find it best to grow seedlings indoors until they are robust enough to go outside in the veg patch. It’s the same thing with tubers like dahlias, grow them indoors until they are a sturdy size and big enough to take some slug damage without being decimated.

You can use other physical barriers like netting and fleece to protect against cabbage whites and cloches to protect against slugs and pigeons. Some people swear by egg shells, there's no harm in trying, but slugs have an amazing protective slime that allows them to slither across most surfaces. Hair or wool (pet or otherwise) can be a decent deterrent as it sticks to slugs, and strulch (straw mulch) is also said to work well. If you have a severe infestation, consider nematodes which are microscopic worms that feed on slugs and snails. They are specific to their host, but there are plenty of predatory slugs (like the leopard slug) that eat other slugs, and these would also be killed by nematodes.

The best defence against pests, is a healthy garden. Garden organically, in a way that considers the fine balance of nature, and you’ll create a haven for all varieties of insects, the good, the bad, and the ugly. The chain of life will keep itself in check.

Pest control

Maintain a healthy and thriving garden with our extensive range of pest control products. Designed to keep pests off your plants and deter animals from invading your outdoor space.

Shop now

Pest control

Maintain a healthy and thriving garden with our range of pest control products.

Shop now

Slug-resilient plants

If slugs keep going for your plants each year, consider growing something else that may not be as inviting to their palate. Slugs generally go for soft, leafy growth, so try plants that are hairy, contain scented oils, or have thick, rubbery leaves. Here are a few you could try:

1. Bergenia - has thick waxy leaves that slugs tend to leave alone. They are available in lots of bright colours, and the leaves are evergreen, turning deep red in winter. It grows in most conditions and is particularly useful for dry, shady spots.

2. Euphorbia - all the members of this genus have a toxic milky sap that deters even the hungriest slug! They grow well in full sun, but there are also species such as E. robbiae that will grow in full shade. They have cup-shaped flowers and often flower in late winter/early spring

3. Anemone × hybrida cultivars (Japanese anemone) - these late summer/autumn flowering perennials have saucer-shaped flowers and come in pink, magenta, and pure white. They are great for woodland-style planting, but do spread, so best in a pot if you have a small space. The leaves are quite hairy, deterring slugs and snails.

Bergenia plants

Bergenia plants

Shop now

Euphorbia plants

Euphorbia plants

Shop now

Anemone plants

Anemone plants

Shop now

Putting plant structure in ahead of growth

As spring starts to gear up, herbaceous plants put on lots of growth, ready for flowering. Without proper support, stems can break in wind or heavy showers. It’s always good to put in the supports early, before the plant needs it, and April is a great time for this.

We grow lots of peonies and yarrows (Achillea), delphiniums and dahlias, all needing additional support. The weight of the flower heads and the exposed windy site means stems can easily snap. There are many types of supports available, and they can be ornamental as well as functional.

Metal hoops work well for heavier plants, like peonies, and can be placed over the crown of the plant to provide support as it grows. For Achillea we have wire-framed domes that the stems can weave through, being hidden later in the season by foliage. Last year we used hazel poles and twine on the dahlias and this seemed to work well, although some of the dinner-plate dahlias are so heavy you inevitably lose a couple in a summer storm.

You can try making your own supports by using cut material from trees and shrubs. Willow and dogwood are fantastic for bending into supports, and the colourful stems are attractive in their own right. Position the support so it surrounds the young shoots rather than sitting directly on top of them, allowing the plant room to grow naturally. As the stems develop, they will weave through the support, creating a strong, natural-looking structure.

Putting in this additional work now will give you peace of mind going into summer and keep your blooms standing tall.

Plant support & obelisks

Shop now

Plant support & obelisks

Shop now

Feeding container shrubs or mulching shrubs as they start to come into growth

As temperatures and daylight hours increase, your shrubs will start to push out new growth. This makes April the ideal time to give them a boost with a well-balanced feed. You can find organic slow-release granular feeds that you simply scatter around the base of your plant and work in with a fork.

Mulching with organic garden compost is also beneficial, it will help retain moisture from spring rains, as well as feed your plant. Mulching also improves soil structure and soil biodiversity, creating a healthier ecosystem for your plants

Shrubs grown in containers need a little more attention. Because they are restricted to a limited volume of compost, nutrients are quickly depleted through watering. Removing the top few centimetres of old compost and replacing it with fresh compost can make a noticeable difference. After this, a slow-release fertiliser or regular liquid feeding will help maintain healthy growth throughout the season. I like to use organic liquid seaweed extract to encourage leafy growth.

Plants such as hydrangeas, rosesand container-grown box (Buxus) particularly benefit from this spring boost, responding with stronger growth and better flowering later in the year.

Taking a few minutes to feed shrubs in April is a small task that can make a big difference. By giving plants the nutrients they need at the start of the growing season, you can set the stage for healthier growth and more abundant displays through spring and summer.

Compost, bark & mulches

Shop now

Compost, bark & mulches

Shop now