Strulch organic garden mulch
Strulch has a neutral pH and can be used throughout the garden on borders, raised beds, around cultivated fruit and on vegetable plots.
- Spend less time weeding as Strulch reduces weed growth by up to 95%.
- Save water as Strulch helps retain moisture around plants
- Improve your soil as Strulch enriches soil and its structure
- Use all around the garden as Strulch is suitable for use around flowers,shrubs, fruit and vegetables.
- Save time and money as Strulch, the mineralised straw garden mulch, lasts up to two years, spreading the cost, saving water and fertiliser, making your plants grow healthier and stronger and giving you more time to relax.
- 100 litre bag will cover approx 3 square metres.
Please note: As a precaution please use gloves when handling. The packed product may contain traces of iron which will be absorbed by the straw after spreading. Keep away from sources of ignition when dry.
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Q:When is the best to apply Strulch?Asked on 9/25/2013 by MillyMulch from Retford
Strulch can be applied at any time of the year, but I suppose the most popular times would be Spring or Autumn.Answered on 9/26/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Dear Plant Doctor,
My laurocerasus rotundiflora have never flowered in six years. A couple of years ago i saw the buds beginning to grow. What should i do to encourage the white flowers to grow. I have never added mulch around the hedge which is in my front garden which does not have a garden wall.Asked on 7/6/2013 by Fabriella from Buckhurst Hill, Essex
There are a number of reasons why plants don't flower. These include too much shade or not enough water or nutrients. It can also be caused by the plant putting on new root growth instead of focusing its energies on producing flowers. I am not really sure why yours have not produced buds, but given time and the right conditions, there is no reason why they wont. You can often give them a bit of a push by feeding during the growing season with a high potash fertiliser.Answered on 7/9/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Is Strulch pet friendly with there being added mineralsAsked on 3/8/2013 by potty from yorkshire
A:Not sure about safety, but the best thing about Strulch for me is that my neighbours' cats HATE it. This is enough to make me keep buying it every year!Answered on 3/29/2014 by Mrs H from Hertfordshire
This product has not been tested on animals, however the manufacturers have both dogs and cats in their garden and they have never heard of it causing any problems. It is made of straw and is not designed to be eaten, but it contains less that 1% iron minerals and the same organic preservatives that they use in bread, so it seems very unlikely that there is anything in it that would harm your pets.Answered on 3/8/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Can this be used for clematis and general plants. I have 2 raised beds that were constructed over builders rubble a year ago. I have used usual potting compost, but I think the soil needs some sort of manure.Asked on 2/8/2013 by Bunty from Isle of Wight
This can certainly be used with Clematis and as it has a neutral pH, it will be suitable for most plants. It is a mulch however, so should be left to break down on the top of the soil, rather than dug in. It will slowly add some nutrients to the soil, but if you want a manure, then you should opt for either the Farmyard Manure - please click on the link below to go straight to it,
or Pelleted Poultry Manure
I hope this helps,Answered on 2/11/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Moving a Rhododendron
Please can you tell me, when is the best time to move a Rhododendron? I live in West Sussex. Many thanks. BeverlyAsked on 2/14/2010 by Anonymous
A:Hello Beverley, The best time to move established shrubs is in the autumn when the soil is still warm but the plant isn't in full active growth. Begin by marking a circle around the shrub, as wide as the widest branch. Dig a trench along the line of this circle. Use a fork to loosen the soil around the root ball as you go to reduce its size and weight so that it becomes manageable. When the root ball looks about the right size that you can still move it but there are still a lot of roots intact, begin to under cut the root ball with a sharp spade to sever the biggest woody roots. Roll up the root ball in sacking or plastic to protect the roots from damage and drying out. Move the shrub to a pre determined position. It is important to have the site ready so that you can transplant the shrub at once and it isn't left for hours (or worse!) drying out. Remove the sacking and plant the shrub in the new hole, at the depth at which it was previously planted. Firm well, water well and mulch with a good thick layer of well rotted farmyard manure. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 2/15/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Can I use Rootgrow on established Roses?
Can Rootgrow be usefully used on established roses? If not, please could you advise me as to what I should use on them at this time of year, to help next year's flowering? SarahAsked on 11/19/2009 by Sarah Craig
A:Thankyou for your suggestion that I apply composted organic matter to my roses. I will do this. SarahAnswered on 11/20/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Hello Sarah, Rootgrow should only really be used when you are first
planting as it needs to come into contact with the roots. At this time
of the year the best thing you can do for established roses is apply a
generous layer of composted organic matter as a mulch. I hope this
helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 11/20/2009 by Sarah Craig
Q:Tree Fern winter care
Hi, I bought a Tree Fern a few years back and it seems to be establishing quite well. I have it in a semi-shaded spot, and I ensure that it is watered and fed regularly. Each year around this time, I protect it for the winter by stuffing straw in the crown, tying up the fading fronds around it and wrapping the trunk in fleece. The only thing is in the spring/summer it tends to produce what I think is a meagre amount of new fronds - 5 or 6 at the most. How can I encourage it to produce a greater number of large and healthy fronds? Also are the fronds prone to wind or sun damage, as the fronds on my tree this year looked like they were burned and shrived at the tips and dry to the touch. Your advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and Regards SteveAsked on 11/3/2009 by Steve Crawford
A:Hello Steve, If the fronds are dry, then it is either getting scorched by too much sun or wind, or it needs more water. I think the key to success is to make sure it can spread its roots, so plant it out in a sheltered part of the garden if it is still in a pot. Also and even more importantly, when you water really soak the whole length of the stem as this is covered by aerial roots - this should be done pretty regularly in summer, but not so the soil below is constantly wet. They do not need much feeding though, so just a top dressing of chicken manure or mulch in spring will do. Finally I live in central London and mine just gets a couple of handfuls of leaves in the crown in autumn and they seem to cope with the weather - including some quite heavy snow at times. I leave the fronds on and only cut them off when new growth emerges each spring. If you live in a colder part of the country then you will need to protect it a little more, but make sure air can circulate and water can get through. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 11/4/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:My Honeysuckle is losing leaves
I have a Honeysuckle climbing over an arch, it is putting on loads of growth, but it is shedding a lot of leaves all the time. What do I do please?Asked on 6/10/2006 by margaret_stokes
A:Plants tend to shed leaves when they are stressed, and the most common reason for this is drought. Apply a mulch around the base of the plant with well-rotted organic matter, as this will help improve the soil moisture and feed the plant too.Answered on 6/12/2006 by Crocus
Q:How do I prevent Pear midge?
My pear tree suffered from what I think I have correctly identified as 'pear midge' last summer and I lost the whole crop. I collected and destroyed the affected fruit, and in March this year pruned the tree as it was needed. What do I need to do to prevent this happening again this year? I would prefer an organic or wildlife friendly approach as a lot of birds frequent my friut trees, and the pears are also usually enjoyed by family and friends.Asked on 4/19/2005 by Ann Williams
A:There are a few ways you can tackle pear midge that doesn't involve spraying lots of chemicals. The best way is to remove infested fruit. This helps to reduce pest levels, and hopefully to guarantee a crop in future seasons. Pick off any affected fruitlets as soon as they are noticed. You can also place a barrier on the soil under the tree canopy to catch falling larvae and fruits. This could be a plastic sheet, or thick cardboard to prevent larvae reaching the soil. Sweep up all fallen debris daily and put it in the dustbin. Keep the ground under the trees covered with a mulch which should be removed each autumn and renewed in the spring. Larval cocoons will be removed with the mulch at the end of each season. In winter, lightly fork or hoe the soil under the trees to expose cocoons to predators, but take care not to damage any shallow tree roots. Pear midge lay their eggs in mid-spring so very early or very late flowering varieties of pear may escape damage. Early flowering varieties are also prone to frost damage so choose a late-flowering variety such as ???Concorde??? or ???Onward???.Answered on 4/20/2005 by Crocus
Q:Why isn't my Magnolia flowering?
I planted a Magnolia stellata 4 yrs ago. It has flowered every year so far, but has not produced flower buds this year - only leaves. It is in a fairly sheltered location, with poor, sandy soil which has been well-improved with organic compost and mulch. Any ideas ?Asked on 4/18/2005 by Andy Bills
A:If the plant gets plenty of sun, then it sounds like the plant just needs a really good feed to help encourage new growth and flower buds. You do need to mulch the plant every year with organic matter, and a feed in spring with a slow-release general fertiliser will help too. A little extra potash (sulphate of potash) in spring will also help encourage flower formation, while in autumn you can feed with bonemeal to help encourage good root growth. Don't forget to keep the plant well watered too in dry weather.Answered on 4/19/2005 by Crocus
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