Excellent for introducing scented glamour into courtyards, city gardens or roof terraces and in warm sunny borders at the foot of a sheltered south-facing wall
- Position: full sun
- Soil: fertile, well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: June to August
- Flower colour: white flowers
- Other features: very fragrant flowers
- Hardiness: frost hardy (needs winter protection)
An attractive woody, evergreen climber with rich, dark green leaves which turn bronze in winter. Clusters of fragrant, pure white flowers are produced from mid- to late summer. It is best grown against a warm, sunny wall in milder areas or in a greenhouse or conservatory in areas prone to severe frosts.
- Garden care: After flowering has finished prune back to fit the available space. In frost prone areas, grow in pots of loam-based potting compost, such as John Innes No2 and move to a frost-free spot in winter.
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I've just received a Star Jasmine from you. Taken out of the box and noticed a few yellow leaves over all the plant ...
I've repotted in much larger pot with a Peat Free compost and placed in garden. I'm monitoring the progress to see if the leaves to make sure they don't get worse.. I have give the plant a watering along with small amount of Tomatoe food when potted on..there are signs of new growth heads or oncoming flowers..... Is there any thing else i should do.. Example - unravel the vines and train up some bamboo, a Give it extra feed and if so how much .... I haven't undone any of the ties on the plant which are attached to bamboo cane already... Should I untie and train up some more bamboo ?? Many thanksAsked on 3/5/2015 by Tommyvb from East Yorkshire
I would definitely recommend gently untying it and unraveling the stems so it can climb onto a more permanent support. I would also advise against overfeeding, so for now, just let it settle in before giving it something else (keep in mind that most potting composts contain enough fertiliser to last around 6 weeks). As for the yellow leaves, it is quite normal for these to lose some of their older leaves as they put on lots of fresh new growth each spring.Answered on 15/5/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:Hi - I'd like to use trachiospermum to cover a long south facing fence in a London garden and am trying to decide how many and what size to buy. Can you tell me approximately how tall the 3l pot plants are? Thank you.Asked on 3/5/2015 by Novice gardener from London
These should be around 60cm tall in a 2-litre pot.Answered on 15/5/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:Hello, I have a tracylospermum jasminoides which I planted last autumn on a south facing wall about 12" away from the wall. It appears to be alive but hasn't grown at all. Initially it received full sun, but is now more shaded due to a laurel growing very vigourously nearby. It has been watered occasionally. Could you tell me how best to get it to grow . Many thanksAsked on 18/4/2015 by Scenic from Surrey
If you planted this in autumn, then I would not expect to see any new growth this early in the year. Usually you would start to see some signs of life by mid-June, so you may need to be patient, but for now you could feed it with Vitax Q4 and give the laurel a clip back so it doesn't steal all the sun.Answered on 22/4/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:I have 3 star jasmine planted in 3 containers on the south-west corner of our roof terrace. The original one, planted over 10 years ago, is thriving and flowers profusely. The other two had to be replaced a few years ago when their containers became waterlogged, and one has died this winter due again to waterlogging. The other "new" one has gone to seed for the first time and is looking very unhappy. It's leaves are drooping and yellowy (the healthy one has its winter red leaves still as normal and has never ever had seed pods) and a bit crispy/dry. The compost is moist but not wet. What do I need to do to save its life?Asked on 15/4/2015 by rooftop gardener from London
Drooping yellow leaves is usually a sign of too much water, so I would check to make sure the excess water can drain away freely from the bottom of the pot. If this is rectified and the damage is not too severe, then it should start to pick up again.Answered on 14/5/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:Hello, I have five 1m long / 27cm tall / 18cm deep planters which I will be placing along a fence in partial sunlight. I want to plant trachelospermum in them in order to cover the three fences in our small SW London garden.
The planters will be put on a wall at the bottom of the garden, and it is out hope that the jasmine will grow to cover the left and right sides too to create a green space. We already have tension wires in place to train the plants along all 3 fences which create a U shape.
In terms of eventual required coverage, the left fence is about 4m square; the fence where the planters will be (the bottom of the U) is 6m square and the right fence is 5m square.
My question is how many of the 10 litre pots we should plant, knowing the constraints of the planter size and the ambition to get good coverage ASAP.
Many thanks!Asked on 12/4/2015 by HLM from SW London
Trachelospermum is a lovely plant, but it does get pretty big and therefore it needs a generous root system to thrive. In fact virtually all climbers need to get their roots down if you want them to offer good coverage. Therefore, I would think that the planters you have are really too small for them if this is going to be a long term project. If you want quite immediate effect and are happy to replace them, then you could plant 3 in each metre-long trough, but otherwise I would strongly recommend you lift a few paving slabs and plant them straight into the ground.Answered on 21/4/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:I have a west facing fenced garden. I would like a fragrant, hardy and really easy (I've not had a garden before) climber. I love this plant in other peoples gardens but not sure if I should go for this or a honeysuckle (if so which one) or may be something else.Asked on 9/4/2015 by Linda from Hampshire
This is a lovely climber and would be hay in a sheltered west facing garden but it isn't fully hardy so might need protection during the winter.
Otherwise honeysuckle sounds a lovely idea,- I have attached a link below to these fragrant plants.
Hope this helps.Answered on 14/4/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:Hi i am looking to buy a quick growing flowering plant to grow in pots at the bottom of my Arch would these Trachelospermum jasminoides - Evergreen Jasmine be ok i live in north west ukAsked on 15/2/2015 by janetdu from United Kingdom
This climbers can grow up to 9m x 3m eventually although growing it in a pot will restrict it's growth, however if it is grown in a large container, and kept well watered and fed it should be ok.
However this plant likes a warm, sunny sheltered spot as it is frost hardy, so unless it can be given these conditions, or you can move it in the winter into a frost free conservatory, it might not be the best plant for North West UK.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 16/2/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
I have a southfacing garden in London. I'm considering star jasmine on all 3 walls of the garden. I would like it to cover the fence in a nice uniform fashion as a backdrop to roses/limelight hydrangeas. Would star jasmine be appropriate for this purpose?Asked on 1/21/2014 by blc47 from London
That sounds lovely, and as long as they get plenty of sun, in a well drained fertile soil they should be fine. You will need to have some kind of frame work to train the climbers over your fence as they aren't self clinging.
These plants are classed as frost hardy which means they will tolerate short periods of light frosts, otherwise you can protect them by mulching the roots in the autumn and using a frost fleece to cover the plant.
Hope this helps.Answered on 1/23/2014 by Georgina from Crocus
Q:We have experienced blackness on the leaves and branches of our jasmine (I believe a star Jasmine 'White flowering'). What do I need to do to get rid of this? There is new growth but the blackness seems to be spreading.Asked on 12/27/2013 by Nigel from Hereford
I suspect this blackness is black sooty mould, which is caused by a fungus that colonises honeydew. Honeydew is a sticky substance secreted by sap-sucking insects such as aphids, scale, mealy bugs and whitefly.
The best course of action is to eradicate the insects and then the sooty mould can be wiped from large tough leaves using soapy water.Answered on 12/30/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:I planted aTrachelospermum jasminoides about 3 months ago. The leaves wilted but a few new leaves sprung up - unfortuantely the same has happened again but this time there are no new leaves. It has been well watered etc, on a west facing wall. So please tell me what has gone wrong?
ValerieAsked on 7/28/2013 by laverie from Ireland
These plants rarely suffer from pests and diseases, so I suspect that as it has been so hot recently, this wilting has been brought about by heat or water stress. I am not sure where it is planted, but if the root ball is very close to the base of the wall or if it is in a pot, then it will need a lot more water than it normally would.Answered on 7/29/2013 by Helen from Crocus
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