Excellent for introducing scented glamour into courtyards, city gardens or roof terraces and in warm sunny borders at the foot of a sheltered south-facing wall
- Position: full sun
- Soil: fertile, well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: June to August
- Flower colour: white flowers
- Other features: very fragrant flowers
- Hardiness: frost hardy (needs winter protection)
An attractive woody, evergreen climber with rich, dark green leaves which turn bronze in winter. Clusters of fragrant, pure white flowers are produced from mid- to late summer. It is best grown against a warm, sunny wall in milder areas or in a greenhouse or conservatory in areas prone to severe frosts.
- Garden care: After flowering has finished prune back to fit the available space. In frost prone areas, grow in pots of loam-based potting compost, such as John Innes No2 and move to a frost-free spot in winter.
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Q:Hi i am looking to buy a quick growing flowering plant to grow in pots at the bottom of my Arch would these Trachelospermum jasminoides - Evergreen Jasmine be ok i live in north west ukAsked on 15/2/2015 by janetdu from United Kingdom
This climbers can grow up to 9m x 3m eventually although growing it in a pot will restrict it's growth, however if it is grown in a large container, and kept well watered and fed it should be ok.
However this plant likes a warm, sunny sheltered spot as it is frost hardy, so unless it can be given these conditions, or you can move it in the winter into a frost free conservatory, it might not be the best plant for North West UK.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 16/2/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
I have a southfacing garden in London. I'm considering star jasmine on all 3 walls of the garden. I would like it to cover the fence in a nice uniform fashion as a backdrop to roses/limelight hydrangeas. Would star jasmine be appropriate for this purpose?Asked on 1/21/2014 by blc47 from London
That sounds lovely, and as long as they get plenty of sun, in a well drained fertile soil they should be fine. You will need to have some kind of frame work to train the climbers over your fence as they aren't self clinging.
These plants are classed as frost hardy which means they will tolerate short periods of light frosts, otherwise you can protect them by mulching the roots in the autumn and using a frost fleece to cover the plant.
Hope this helps.Answered on 1/23/2014 by Georgina from Crocus
Q:We have experienced blackness on the leaves and branches of our jasmine (I believe a star Jasmine 'White flowering'). What do I need to do to get rid of this? There is new growth but the blackness seems to be spreading.Asked on 12/27/2013 by Nigel from Hereford
I suspect this blackness is black sooty mould, which is caused by a fungus that colonises honeydew. Honeydew is a sticky substance secreted by sap-sucking insects such as aphids, scale, mealy bugs and whitefly.
The best course of action is to eradicate the insects and then the sooty mould can be wiped from large tough leaves using soapy water.Answered on 12/30/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:I planted aTrachelospermum jasminoides about 3 months ago. The leaves wilted but a few new leaves sprung up - unfortuantely the same has happened again but this time there are no new leaves. It has been well watered etc, on a west facing wall. So please tell me what has gone wrong?
ValerieAsked on 7/28/2013 by laverie from Ireland
These plants rarely suffer from pests and diseases, so I suspect that as it has been so hot recently, this wilting has been brought about by heat or water stress. I am not sure where it is planted, but if the root ball is very close to the base of the wall or if it is in a pot, then it will need a lot more water than it normally would.Answered on 7/29/2013 by Helen from Crocus
My Trachelospernum is growing in a large pot on a wall that gets the afternoon sun, it is just about to flower (plenty of them too) but I seem to be losing an awful lot of leaves that are turning red and falling (bit like in the Autumn) what am I doing wrong?
ThanksAsked on 7/14/2013 by Leelyd from Wimbledon
Many evergreen plants will lose leaves as they put on new growth or are about to flower. This is quite a normal process, but if it is quite widespread, then it may be that your plant needs a bigger pot, or needs more food or water.Answered on 7/15/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:We have a trachelospermum jasminoides planted in soil on a west facing wall in a small sheltered garden in West London. It was planted in 2008 and has never flowered. Everything else in the garden flowers. We pruned it a couple of years ago to about 1.5m high as it was getting out of control, and still no flowers. It is growing actively. Does it need feeding if so what? Our neighbour has one facing the same direction and it flowers profusely. Have we just bought a blind plant?Asked on 6/19/2013 by Urbanist from Barnes
There are a number of reasons why plants don't flower including too much shade or not enough water or nutrients. I am not really sure why your Trachelospermum has not flowered but I would try and give it a bit of a push by feeding during the growing season with a high potash fertiliser like Tomorite or sulphate of potash
Hope this helpsAnswered on 6/19/2013 by Georgina from Crocus
can you please tell me how large the Trachelospermum in the 10lt pots are - photo would be useful? I want to grow them against a long south facing fence - how far apart would you space the plants?
thanksAsked on 5/11/2013 by plantmad from Reading
The Trachelospermum jasminoides in a 10lt pot is about 1.75m tall. These are lovely plants but they are only frost hardy, so do need winter protection. The spacing of the plants depends on how patient you are waiting for them to cover the fence. They can grow to 3m wide x9m at least, but if you want more instant cover plant them closer together and then prune after flowering to keep in check.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 5/16/2013 by Georgina from Crocus
Q:I have a pair of star jasmines about 2m tall, bought last year and planted in pots. They are in an unheated, south facing conservatory. One is looking fine but the other has developed large brown patches over many of its leaves. They both have plenty of new growth and buds. I think I have treated them both the same, (their position is close to one another so as to make no difference in terms of shade etc.) so I wonder what could have gone wrong? Could you advise on possible reasons and what to do, please?Asked on 4/17/2013 by Trugmeister from Buckinghamshire
These plants are rarely troubled by pests or diseases, so I suspect it is a cultural problem of some sort. It is difficult to pinpoint from your description, but if the leaf tips or margins are going brown, then this usually indicates drought or scorch of some sort. If however the discolouration is radiating out from the centre of the leaf, then the most likely cause is waterlogging.Answered on 4/18/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Hi there. I am thinking of planting a couple of these climbers - but the winter warnings are something I need to gain more knowledge on.
Planting in Glasgow, a south east facing wall that gets plenty of sunshine, good drainage.
I want to plant these to climb and cover a fence - but this has the disadvantage that I can not take them into the greenhouse in the winter. Can I protect them in the winter when planted or do I need to look at a better suited plant?
AndrewAsked on 4/10/2013 by ManInBlack from Uddingston
It is very difficult to be too specific. These plants are frost hardy and that means they will tolerate short periods of light frost. Having said that I have had reasonably heavy snow on mine several times without protection and it has come through it with flying colours. If you want to have a go, then the best way to protect them is to mulch the roots in autumn and cover the foliage with a layer of frost fleece during the worst weather.Answered on 4/10/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:I recently took delivery of a trachelospermum jasminoides. This is tightly twisted around the supporting cane, in a downwards direction too. I began to untwist it with the objective of fastening it to supporting wires, but then wondered if I was doing the right thing. Can you advise me how I should be treating this plant?Asked on 4/4/2013 by Rosegarden from Durham
The growers of these plants have wound the stems around the canes as they grow, so you will get a more mature plant. When you want to plant it, you should gently unravel it and then re-tie the stems onto your supporting wires or trellis.Answered on 4/5/2013 by Helen from Crocus
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