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Excellent for introducing scented glamour into courtyards, city gardens or roof terraces and in warm sunny borders at the foot of a sheltered south-facing wall
- Position: full sun
- Soil: fertile, well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: June to August
- Flower colour: white flowers
- Other features: very fragrant flowers
- Hardiness: frost hardy (needs winter protection)
An attractive woody, evergreen climber with rich, dark green leaves which turn bronze in winter. Clusters of fragrant, pure white flowers are produced from mid- to late summer. It is best grown against a warm, sunny wall in milder areas or in a greenhouse or conservatory in areas prone to severe frosts.
- Garden care: After flowering has finished prune back to fit the available space. In frost prone areas, grow in pots of loam-based potting compost, such as John Innes No2 and move to a frost-free spot in winter.
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Q:My newest trachelospermum has been doing really well - lots of buds and flowers but the flowers have quickly turned brown. Another (much more established) plant in a different border is in much better condition - thousands of healthy flowers. I think the aspect is right but the new plant is in clay soil (into which I have tried to incorporate much topsoil) whereas the older plant is not. Is this the problem?Asked on 5/8/2016 by Mandy from Milton Keynes
There are a couple of things that may be causing this, however I think that the main cause is probably related to how much sun the plant is getting. Flowers will tend to fade faster if they get lots of hot mid-day or early afternoon sun, and watering may also play a part as the flowers will be the first thing to be shed if the plant is stressed. Finally, when watering, avoid wetting the flowers as this too may cause them to rot, or if hit by strong sunlight soon afterwards, scorch.Answered on 8/8/2016 by Anonymous
I was thinking of buying this climber to grow up a small North-East facing wall. The wall will get the sun early morning but not after.
Does that count as "full sun" or should it be west or south?
ThanksAsked on 15/3/2016 by John from Hertfordshire
Really a Trachelospermum needs a sheltered, sunny south or west facing aspect, so a north east aspect won't be warm enough for it.
There are other plants that will grow in a north east aspect with limited sun. I have attached a link below.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 17/3/2016 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:Hi there: How long is the flowering period? Is it as long as the Star of Toscana? What are the differences between the two apart from colour? Thanks!Asked on 11/3/2016 by Susanna from Bristol area
These tend to flower from mid- to late summer, although the weather does affect this, and they often have a smattering of flowers into autumn.Answered on 18/3/2016 by Helen from crocus
Q:A simple question I hope - what size of plant is supplied?Asked on 9/11/2015 by JML from Hampshire
This plant in a 2lt pot will be approx 60cm tall.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 10/11/2015 by Georgina from crocus
Q:I bought and planted one of these star jasmine plants in April to grow round a garden arch. Though the roots are mostly in shade, the plant gets afternoon/evening sun. Last month I noticed that the leaves had started to get dark brown spots on them and I'm not sure what the cause is. The plant looks generally healthy and is flowering, and the leaves aren't fully turning brown, but the spots are on nearly all leaves, including new growth coming through. I've pruned off some of the worst affected, but don't want to remove them all otherwise I'd be stripping the young plant of most of its leaves! Are the spots likely to be fungal or environmental? It has been quite a cool, wet summer?Asked on 16/8/2015 by gardening_novice from Leeds
I suspect you are right on two counts as it is likely that the spots are caused by a fungus (fungal leaf spot actually) and that this is often brought about by environmental stress. For more information please click on the following link.
http://www.crocus.co.uk/pestsanddiseases/_//top12/Fungal%20leaf%20spot/ArticleID.1170Answered on 25/8/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:I want to plant one of these in my small inner London garden against a wall/trellis and wonder what is the best month to plant it to ensure it gets off to the best possible start?
Also we have a clay soil - I see them in neighbours' gardnes so believe it will grow but wonder about any special planting and care tips?Asked on 28/6/2015 by Tango from Finsbury Park, North London
The best times for planting are either spring (or if you have a sheltered garden) autumn. It can however be planted in summer providing you make sure it is kept well watered. They tend to be quite happy in clay soils, provided they are not too heavy or remain waterlogged for any length of time. They need to be kept well fed (a good general purpose fertiliser such as Vitax Q4 ids ideal) and watered and if they get too big, they can be cut back to fit the available space after they have finished flowering.Answered on 1/7/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:Hi We have just planted 4 Trachelospermum Jasminoides at the 4 corners of a new pergola. They are planted in the ground. Can you please advise on what I need to do to encourage them to climb up the pergola? Thank youAsked on 9/6/2015 by Hellyhall315 from Peterborough
You will need to provide something for the twining stems to cling to and make sure the plants are kept well fed and watered, as this will encourage new growth.Answered on 10/6/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:Is trachelospermum self clinging. If it is will it damage a brick wall. ThanksAsked on 5/6/2015 by nordicwalkingcarreras from london
These are twining climbers, so need to have something to twine around for support - some trellis, an arbour etc. Therefore they will not cause any harm at all to your brick wall.Answered on 5/6/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:We have just bought 2 Trachelospermum jasminiodes which we have planted in a metre long trough to grow up a trellis. We have separated and attached the stems to the trellis and planted in multi purpose compost. We have watered probably every other day and the compost is moist at all times. When we got them they had a few yellow/red tinged leaves, these fell off. Since then more of the mature leaves have gone yellow/red (with red/brown spots on the back). Is this anything to worry about I.e disease? ThanksAsked on 26/5/2015 by Sunny from Hertfordshire
If it is the older foliage, then I would not be too alarmed as it is quite normal for evergreen plants to lose some of their older leaves as they put on fresh new growth.Answered on 27/5/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:how tall is the 10 litre pot and is it mutli stemed plant or just a single and tall one please? i wonder if you could show us some photos of the actual plants you are selling please?Asked on 25/5/2015 by redblue27 from bromley, south east london
I'm afraid that as we have such a high turnover, we cannot show you photos of the plants we are actually selling, but as a very general guide, this will be around 1.75m tall and will have a couple of stems.Answered on 27/5/2015 by Helen from crocus
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