Solanum crispum 'Glasnevin'
Chilean potato tree
- Position: full sun
- Soil: fertile, moist but well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: June to September
- Flower colour: deep purple-blue
- Other features: tiny yellowish-white autumn berries (poisonous)
- Hardiness: frost hardy (needs winter protection)
Deep purple-blue, scented blooms appear in generous clusters from summer to autumn creating a pretty spectacular display. These are followed by yellowish-white fruits. The dark green leaves will usually stay on the plant in milder winters, but will drop if the temperatures become too low. This vigorous climber is perfect for covering a sunny, sheltered wall or fence. Lavenders and catmint are ideal companion plants, clothing the ground underneath the climber and helping to balance the design.
- Garden care: Tie in stems to horizontal wires or trellis. In early spring remove a third of the oldest stems to ground level.
- Harmful if eaten
Reviewed by 2 customers
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Comments about Crocus Solanum crispum'Glasnevin':
I have had a Solanum 'Glasnevin' in my town garden in East Anglia against an east facing fence for about 20 years. It survived the hard winters of 2011 and 2012. It has now lost its youthful vigour and I shall be replacing it.
- Your Gardening Experience:
Comments about Crocus Solanum crispum'Glasnevin':
Seems to be fast growing. The leaves smell of potato peel. And the light mauve flowers are pretty but very tiny. The fact that it is not hardy works against it. It`s a nice enough climber to grow up a tall fence but that`s it.
- Your Gardening Experience:
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Q:Can you please suggest something to plant under my Chilean potato tree? I have had no luck with anything I have tried, I assume due to its roots taking over. It is west facing, and ideally I want something not as attractive to bees as lavender, as my young children play in this area.Asked on 29/8/2015 by SCGH from Ruislip
If the roots of the potato vine are well established, then you will need to make sure whatever you plant is kept really well fed and watered if it is going to survive. If you can do that, then I would recommend something really tough. Here are some of the best.
Cotoneaster Coral Beauty
http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.vinca/sort.0/Answered on 1/9/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:I recently purchased from yourselves a 'Glasnevin' which has since grown vigorously but produced no flowers at all. This can't be normal so what is wrong? It is in a sunny spot, in a container with JI No.3 and with some multi purpose compost.Asked on 14/7/2014 by kevin from lower sunbury on thames
There are a number of reasons why plants don't flower including too much shade or not enough water or nutrients. It can also be caused by the plant putting on new root growth instead of focusing its energies on producing flowers. I am not really sure why yours has not produced buds, but given time and the right conditions, there is no reason why it won't flower. You can often give them a bit of a push by feeding during the growing season with a high potash fertiliser.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 17/7/2014 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:Can this be planted in a pot, or does it need to be in the ground? Thanks.Asked on 6/6/2014 by Mona from Manchester
It is a big plant so ideally it should be planted in a sheltered spot in the garden. It will survive however in a really large pot for several years if it is kept really well fed and watered.Answered on 10/6/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:my solanum crispum glasnevin is coming up to its 3 summer it had budded up all over earlier in the year but 2/3 of the plant buds have since dry up and died could this have happened because of a late frost or maybe this has happened because I didn't take 1/3 of the old wood back to ground leval or is their another reason for this or do I need to dig this plant out and start again many thanksAsked on 27/5/2013 by big ale from brighton / hove east sussex
It is difficult to say exactly why some of the buds have died on your Solanum, it could be that it has been caught by one of the late frosts as it is not fully hardy. I wouldn't give up on the plant, I would trim it back, give it a feed, and as long as the damage is not too severe it should come back.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 29/5/2013 by Georgina from Crocus
Q:Looking for a suitable plant to screen pipe
I am looking for advice please. We have recently installed a downstairs toilet which involved erecting a very large ugly grey pipe (vertically) which almost reaches the eaves of the house. The position of the house/pipe wouldn't be suitable for a tree as it is directly on the driveway side of the house. Could you possibly suggest a fast growing bushy evergreen climber to disguise it? I'd thought of ivy but perhaps you could suggest something bushier or better?Many t hanks ElizabethAsked on 17/10/2009 by elizabeth cairns
A:Hello Elizabeth, There are very few truly evergreen climbers that are fast growing, so ivy may be a good option. Another option may be Clematis armandii, but this is not quite fully hardy - just click on the following link to go straight to it
or if you want a semi-evergreen, then these two might be worth considering. Lonicera japonica Halliana
or Solanum (again not quite fully hardy)
http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/other-climbers/solanum-crispum-glasnevin/classid.1720/ I hope this helps Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 19/10/2009 by elizabeth cairns
Q:Evergreen climbers for south facing pots
Hi, I have a south facing veranda which does get very hot in the summer. We are in the lee of a valley so pretty sheltered. I want to plant three evergreen climbers to go up the posts of the veranda and along the top of it. Please can you advise the best plants and also how big the pots should be and what compost they should go in. Thanks RosemaryAsked on 13/10/2009 by Anonymous
A:Hello Rosemary, There are several plants worth considering, but it will be crucial that the plants go into really large pots (the biggest you can find), and that they are kept well fed and watered. Here are some of my favourites Clematis cirrhosa var balearica http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/clematis/clematis-cirrhosa-var.-balearica/classid.871/ C. Freckles http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/clematis/clematis-cirrhosa-var.-purpurascens-freckles/classid.872/ Lonicera henryi http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/honeysuckle/lonicera-henryi-/classid.1676/ Solanum crispum Glasnevin http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/other-climbers/solanum-crispum-glasnevin/classid.1720/ I hope this gives you a few ideas. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 14/10/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Which plants are Deer proof?
I want a list of Deer proof plants please. It`s either a change in habitat or environment, but I get total devastation now and in the last two years they come up the drive.Asked on 3/2/2006 by david
A:Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful, but it is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual tastes which might like the bitter taste! Below is a list of good plants that generally are quite successful though. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Elaeagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally, fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer eat roses and some thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly will exclude them. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.Answered on 6/2/2006 by Crocus
Q:What can I plant that the deers won't eat?
What types of plants do deer not like? If you could help me out I could greatly appreciate it.Asked on 18/3/2005 by Kelly L. Sliker
A:Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful. It is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual taste which might like a bitter taste, but the following is a list of plants that generally are quite successful. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Eleagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer do eat roses and some other thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly tend to keep them out. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.Answered on 21/3/2005 by Crocus
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