Rosa 'Wedding Day'
rose Wedding Day (rambler)
- Position: full sun
- Soil: fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: July and August
- Flower colour: creamy-white
- Other Features: excellent cut-flowers
- Hardiness: fully hardy
Extravagant clusters of single, scented, creamy-white flowers in July and August, ageing to pale pink, and shiny, mid-green leaves. This extremely vigorous rambling rose is ideal for covering a large house or garden wall in sun or partial shade. Excellent for concealing an unsightly structure, it must, however, have adequate space to grow.
All our roses are grown in an open field and then dug up when the weather conditions are right in October or November. Some suppliers send out their roses as 'bare root' plants (ie without pots or compost), but we pot ours up as it helps to keep the roots hydrated and in good condition. As they are dormant throughout the winter, they will not produce any new roots until spring, so don't be surprised if the compost falls away from the roots when you take them out of their pots. The roses can be kept in their pots throughout the winter provided they are kept well fed and watered, however ideally they should planted out as soon as possible. They will already have been cut back so no further pruning will be required, apart from snipping off any tips that have died back. Routine pruning can begin in late winter the year after planting.
- Garden care: If planting in winter, choose a frost-free spell when the soil is not frozen. Roses are quite deep-rooted plants so dig a deep hole roughly twice as wide as the plants roots and mix in a generous amount of composted organic matter. A top-dressing of a general purpose fertiliser can be worked into the surrounding soil and we also recommend using Rose Rootgrow at this stage to encourage better root development. This is particularly important when planting into a bed where roses have previously been grown as Rose Rootgrow is said to combat rose sickness (aka. replant disease). Before planting you will also need to make sure that there is adequate support for the rose to grow onto.
Remove the plants from their pots and gently spread out the roots before placing them in the centre of the hole. Try to ensure that the 'bud union' (the point where the cultivated rose has been grafted onto the rootstock, and from where the shoots emerge) is at soil level. You can judge this quite easily by laying something flat, like a spade handle or bamboo cane, across the top of the hole. When they are at the right height, back-fill the hole, firming the soil down gently before watering the plant well. Tie the stems to the support in and open fan shape and as new shhots emerge, tie these in horizontally.
When planting against a large tree, dig a hole about a metre away from the trunk and angle the rose towards the trunk. The tree must be mature and strong enough to take the weight of the rose. Or you can train the rose up to the crown of branches, using wooden supports. In this case the rose should be planted on the outer reaches of the tree's canopy. Allow it to scramble up the supports and then into your chosen tree.
Water generously until well established, and apply a specialist rose fertiliser (following the manufacturers instructions) each spring. They will also benefit from a generous mulch of composted farmyard manure in spring, but make sure this is kept away from the stems.
When your rose has filled the allotted space, one in three of the oldest stems can be cut right back to their base. In smaller areas, remove all the stems that have flowered, tie in new stems to replace them, and then shorten the side-shoots of the remaining stems by up to two thirds. This should be done in late summer after their flowers and hips have faded. Rambling roses usually respond well to hard pruning, so those that have become overgrown can be renovated from late autumn to late winter. First remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems completely. Keeping from four to six young stems, cut all the others right back to their base. Shorten the side shoots on the remaining stems by up to a half and tie these onto the support.
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Q:Hi, i got Rosa Wedding Day in March 2013 (14 months ago now). I planted it next to a large buddleia which is cut into a tree shape (ie no lower branches so room and light for shrubs underneath). I watered it very very often last summer but it didnt flower last year and so far no sign of buds this year. It also has seven leaves per stem instead of the normal five. I am worried it's gone a bit rogue and might never flower. Can you advise please?Asked on 5/30/2014 by niqniq from london
These plants prefer a sunny spot, so even though your Buddleja has had its lower branches removed, it will still be casting shade and its well-established roots will be quite competitive with the roses for the available water, light and nutrients. The good news is that given the right conditions, there is no reason why your rose wont flower, so I would be tempted to move it to a better spot (ideally during the dormant season) and make sure it is kept well fed and watered. In time it should treat you to lots of lovely flowers.
As for the number of leaflets, this often varies on roses, so is of no concern, provided the stems are coming from above the graft union.Answered on 6/2/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:why is my wedding day ramble always got mildew ?Asked on 9/19/2013 by sherby from peterborough
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease, which is encouraged by the plant being dry at the roots, with damp stagnant air around the top of the plant. It looks unsightly and can cause leaves to drop early, but if the plant is well established it is a relatively harmless disease. However, care should be taken with younger plants since these may be drastically weakened. You should remove all dead leaves in autumn to prevent the spores from over wintering and mulch well in spring and autumn with well rotted farmyard manure to prevent the roots drying out. If possible, prune plants so they have an open shape and air can move through the branches. You can also spray with a systemic fungicide at the first signs of attack - or use this spray prior to any signs of the disease, as a preventative measure.Answered on 9/20/2013 by Helen from Crocus
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