Rosa 'New Dawn'
rose New Dawn (climbing)
- Standard £4.99
- Next / named day £6.99
- Click & collect FREE
Grow over an arch or against a warm sunny wall; also ideal for shady city courtyards
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil, including clay
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: July to September
- Hardiness: fully hardy
Sprays of fragrant, pale pearl-pink flowers appear from July to September. This is a lovely, repeat-flowering climbing rose that flourishes in both sun or partial shade. One of the best and most vigorous climbing roses, it's perfect for covering a house or garden wall.
All our roses are grown in an open field and then dug up when the weather conditions are right in October or November. Some suppliers send out their roses as 'bare root' plants (ie without pots or compost), but we pot ours up as it helps to keep the roots hydrated and in good condition. As they are dormant throughout the winter, they will not produce any new roots until spring, so don't be surprised if the compost falls away from the roots when you take them out of their pots. The roses can be kept in their pots throughout the winter provided they are kept well fed and watered, however ideally they should planted out as soon as possible. They will already have been cut back so no further pruning will be required, apart from snipping off any tips that have died back. Routine pruning can begin in late winter the year after planting.
- Garden care: If planting in winter, choose a frost-free spell when the soil is not frozen. Roses are quite deep-rooted plants so dig a deep hole roughly twice as wide as the plants roots and mix in a generous amount of composted organic matter. A top-dressing of a general purpose fertiliser can be worked into the surrounding soil and we also recommend using Rose Rootgrow at this stage to encourage better root development. This is particularly important when planting into a bed where roses have previously been grown as Rose Rootgrow is said to combat rose sickness (aka. replant disease). Before planting you will also need to make sure that there is adequate support for the rose to grow onto.
Remove the plants from their pots and gently spread out the roots before placing them in the centre of the hole. Try to ensure that the 'bud union' (the point where the cultivated rose has been grafted onto the rootstock, and from where the shoots emerge) is at soil level. You can judge this quite easily by laying something flat, like a spade handle or bamboo cane, across the top of the hole. When they are at the right height, back-fill the hole, firming the soil down gently before watering the plant well. Tie the stems to the support in and open fan shape and as new shoots emerge, tie these in horizontally, as this will encourage flowering shoots to form nearer the base.
When planting against a large tree, dig a hole about a metre away from the trunk and angle the rose towards the trunk. The tree must be mature and strong enough to take the weight of the rose. Or you can train the rose up to the crown of branches, using wooden supports. In this case the rose should be planted on the outer reaches of the tree's canopy. Allow it to scramble up the supports and then into your chosen tree.
Water generously until well established, and apply a specialist rose fertiliser (following the manufacturers instructions) each spring. They will also benefit from a generous mulch of composted farmyard manure in spring, but make sure this is kept away from the stems.
From late autumn to late winter, pop on a pair of tough gloves and remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems. Tie in new stems and and shorten the side-shoots of any flowered stems by up to two thirds. When the plants become congested, remove one or two of the oldest stems, cutting them right back to their base. Climbing roses usually respond well to hard pruning, so those that have become very overgrown can be renovated from late autumn to late winter. First remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems completely. Keeping from four to six young stems, cut all the others right back to their base. Shorten the side shoots on the remaining stems by up to a half and tie these onto the support.
Reviewed by 1 customer
Displaying review 1
Comments about Rosa 'New Dawn':
It was a bit more delicate than I expected, flowers were quite small but it was very pretty
- Your Gardening Experience:
- Keen but clueless
Do you want to ask a question about this?If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
Q:I have been given climbing rose new dawn & pot to put it in. I'm worried it won't do well in the pot because I have read roses are deep routed. I have also seen comments saying you can trim the tap route to encourage shorter wider & more fibrous route system.
Should I plant it in the ground or trim the roots & get a large pot?Asked on 31/3/2016 by fair weather pottering from surrey
I'm afraid climbing roses never do well in pots in the long term, so if it is at all possible, I would definitely recommend planting it in the ground.Answered on 1/4/2016 by Helen from crocus
Q:Is it a good idea to prune New Dawn? Mine flowers once only in June and I wonder if pruning might help? It's three years old and rampant!Asked on 22/8/2014 by Rosemum from London
Yes we do recommend pruning this rose - and this is how you should go about it.
From late autumn to late winter, pop on a pair of tough gloves and remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems. Tie in new stems and and shorten the side-shoots of any flowered stems by up to two thirds. When the plants become congested, remove one or two of the oldest stems, cutting them right back to their base. Climbing roses usually respond well to hard pruning, so those that have become very overgrown can be renovated from late autumn to late winter. First remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems completely. Keeping from four to six young stems, cut all the others right back to their base. Shorten the side shoots on the remaining stems by up to a half and tie these onto the support.Answered on 27/8/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:Climbers for North East facing wall
Hi I was just wondering if you could give me some advice please. Our house is a Victorian end of terrace - the side of the house faces North-East. The side of the house is very bare (only two tiny windows on ground floor) and we would like to grow something up the wall. We have had trouble with graffiti in the past and want to paint the side of the house and then put trellis to about 7ft. Can you suggest something that would grow quite quickly please. Kind Regards JoannaAsked on 6/11/2009 by Joanna Swainson
A:Hello Joanna, If you click on the link below it will take you to our fast growing climbers, which will cope with low light levels. If you click into each card you can then see the eventual height and spread of each plant - some of them are pretty big. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/plcid.15/vid.186/vid.237/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 9/11/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Thank you so much Helen, this helps a lot.Answered on 9/11/2009 by Joanna Swainson
Q:Climbing Plant on a North-Facing Trellis
Dear Sir/Madam, Could you recommend a climbing plant for a trellis? The trellis in question is set against my neighbour's wall, and faces northward. So, I'm looking for a plant to provide maximum, attractive, fast-growing coverage. Yours faithfully, PeterAsked on 18/8/2009 by Peter Lawson
A:Hello Peter, I have done a search on our Plant Finder and if you click on the following link it will take you to all the climbers which will grow on a north facing aspect and are fast growing (although keep in mind most plants are going into their dormant period now) http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/plcid.15/vid.186/vid.237/ I hope this helps.Answered on 19/8/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:What scented, climbing rose would you recommend?
I'm looking for a heavily scented, fast growing rose to grow next to and around my front door, which gets sun most of the day. I would be happy with any colour other than white, but prefer pink. Nothing too big please.Asked on 10/7/2005 by Charmaine Johns
A:There are some lovely heavily scented, climbing roses that don't get too big - here are some of my favourites:- Alchymist http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/roses/climber-rose/climbers/climbing-roses/rosa-alchymist/classid.2350/ Nahema http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/roses/climber-rose/climbers/climbing-roses/rosa-nah%C3%A9ma-=-del%C3%A9ri/classid.2000005330/ The New Dawn http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/roses/climber-rose/climbers/climbing-roses/rosa-the-new-dawn/classid.77913/Answered on 11/7/2005 by Crocus
It is difficult not to get excited about this fabulous group of plants. Their big, bold, brightly coloured flowers, coupled with their versatile growth habits, make this one of the most popular plant groups of all time. There is no secret to their successRead full article
Many flowering plants can be encouraged to produce better and longer-lasting displays with the minimum of effort. A plant produces flowers in order to reproduce and ensure the survival of the species. Once a plant has flowered and fertilisation has takenRead full article
Wildlife-friendly gardens are not only more interesting as you can watch all the comings and goings, but they are often more productive as many creatures will help increase pollination. Garden ponds act as a magnet to dragonflies and damsel flies, along wRead full article
The traditional cottage garden was an intensive, yet carefree mixture of fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers all crowded into a tiny space. Today, this informal charm can be recreated using modern varieties that largely take care of themselves around anRead full article
Early spring is a good time to start pruning roses The exact time will depend on where in the country you are and how cold it is. Pruning time is between mid-March through to early April, watch for when the buds start to swell, but before any leaves appeRead full article
Hybrid Musks mingle well with English honeysuckle and they are amongst the most fragrant and healthy. They perform from July onwards, after the main flush of most roses, so they are useful to the gardener. Hybrid Musks are still in the top drawer, despiteRead full article
At some stage in June, your garden will be a glorious affair full of scent and soft flower. Placing a posy from the garden, close to a family hub like the kitchen table, unites your home and garden as effectively as having a huge picture window. You don’tRead full article
The rose has been the nation’s favourite flower for centuries, prized for their fragrant blooms that make June the dreamiest month of the year. However late-autumn and winter, when these sleeping beauties are having their long rest, is the best time to pRead full article
Modern roses are generally bred to be repeat-flowering with a main flush in June, followed by further flowers throughout the season. These roses ration their flowers with five to six weeks between flushes, finishing with a late flourish in October, or eRead full article
Many climbing roses have over-large flowers on leggy stems, due to their old-fashioned Hybrid Tea blood. Their pliable stems are ideal for winding around a pillar before the new growth hardens, usually in October and November. This slows the sap and helpsRead full article
Roses get away extremely well when planted in their dormant season, between November and early March. Although they will be delivered potted up (to help keep the roots moist), the compost will fall away from the roots as you remove the rose from the pot aRead full article
Mature roses are generally pruned in early February, after the worst of the winter is over, using good secateurs like Felco no 2's or 6's. Pruning, just like planting, must only be done in good weather. Generally floribundas are cut back to 45cm.Read full article
Tidy up any fallen rose leaves now, especially if they look spotty because this is almost certainly a result of a fungal disease called black spot (Diplocarpon rosae). This debilitating disease leads to poor flowering and defoliation, but not all roses arRead full article
Early flowering roses tend to come in shades of white, pink or purple-pink and most forms of the biennial foxglove, Digitalis purpurea, have toning flowers in similar colours. These appear in rose time, but carry on after the first rose flush has finishedRead full article