Rosa 'Madame Alfred Carrière'
rose Madame Alfred Carrière (climbing noisette)
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A large climber to light up a north wall, or span a pergola with good healthy mid-green foliage and pale-pink noisette roses that go on until almost Christmas!
- Position: full sun or partial shade (it's one of the best roses for a north facing aspect)
- Soil: fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: July to September
- Flower colour: white to pale pink
- Other features: scented flowers
- Hardiness: fully hardy
Fragrant, fully double, white to pale pink flowers from July to September and light green leaves. This reliable, repeat-flowering, old climbing rose is ideal for a north-facing site. A popular and hardy climber since Victorian times, its slender, pliable stems are particularly suitable for training over a rose-arch, fence or wall.
All our roses are grown in an open field and then dug up when the weather conditions are right in October or November. Some suppliers send out their roses as 'bare root' plants (ie without pots or compost), but we pot ours up as it helps to keep the roots hydrated and in good condition. As they are dormant throughout the winter, they will not produce any new roots until spring, so don't be surprised if the compost falls away from the roots when you take them out of their pots. The roses can be kept in their pots throughout the winter provided they are kept well fed and watered, however ideally they should planted out as soon as possible. They will already have been cut back so no further pruning will be required, apart from snipping off any tips that have died back. Routine pruning can begin in late winter the year after planting.
- Garden care: If planting in winter, choose a frost-free spell when the soil is not frozen. Roses are quite deep-rooted plants so dig a deep hole roughly twice as wide as the plants roots and mix in a generous amount of composted organic matter. A top-dressing of a general purpose fertiliser can be worked into the surrounding soil and we also recommend using Rose Rootgrow at this stage to encourage better root development. This is particularly important when planting into a bed where roses have previously been grown as Rose Rootgrow is said to combat rose sickness (aka. replant disease). Before planting you will also need to make sure that there is adequate support for the rose to grow onto.
Remove the plants from their pots and gently spread out the roots before placing them in the centre of the hole. Try to ensure that the 'bud union' (the point where the cultivated rose has been grafted onto the rootstock, and from where the shoots emerge) is at soil level. You can judge this quite easily by laying something flat, like a spade handle or bamboo cane, across the top of the hole. When they are at the right height, back-fill the hole, firming the soil down gently before watering the plant well. Tie the stems to the support in and open fan shape and as new shhots emerge, tie these in horizontally, as this will encourage flowering shoots to form nearer the base.
When planting against a large tree, dig a hole about a metre away from the trunk and angle the rose towards the trunk. The tree must be mature and strong enough to take the weight of the rose. Or you can train the rose up to the crown of branches, using wooden supports. In this case the rose should be planted on the outer reaches of the tree's canopy. Allow it to scramble up the supports and then into your chosen tree.
Water generously until well established, and apply a specialist rose fertiliser (following the manufacturers instructions) each spring. They will also benefit from a generous mulch of composted farmyard manure in spring, but make sure this is kept away from the stems.
From late autumn to late winter, pop on a pair of tough gloves and remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems. Tie in new stems and and shorten the side-shoots of any flowered stems by up to two thirds. When the plants become congested, remove one or two of the oldest stems, cutting them right back to their base. Climbing roses usually respond well to hard pruning, so those that have become very overgrown can be renovated from late autumn to late winter. First remove any dead, damaged or weak-looking stems completely. Keeping from four to six young stems, cut all the others right back to their base. Shorten the side shoots on the remaining stems by up to a half and tie these onto the support.
Reviewed by 1 customer
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I have had a Mme Alfred Carriere rose from crocus for ten years. It has been exceptionally healthy and bug resistant. It flowers almost constantly, even in the winter, is tolerant of neglect, frost and heavy pruning. It is a strong grower but not so rapid as to be overwhelming. I have planted it in a sunny south facing spot in our garden in south Devon and it is regularly admired, The branches can be made to arch over very attractively to create a bower or similar. just about to order my third even though the first is going strong as they re such a great gift.
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Q:I would like to grow this rose in a container against a balcony wall that doesn't get direct sun and is always shaded - I would say light shade. Does the colour of the wall matter? Am considering painting it a dark colour (currently white) and wondering if by absorbing light it would have effect on the growth of the plant. Many thanks.Asked on 26/7/2015 by Fiona from London
The colour of the wall will not have a significant impact on the roses growth, however this rose (like all the climbing roses), will not be happy in a pot for more than about a year. If you want a longer term climber, then I would opt for one of the smaller Clematis.Answered on 27/7/2015 by Helen from crocus
I planted this rose which was a gift in late March and it is growing very well. Only thing is it has not flowered and doesn't even have any buds yet. I have placed it against a fence panel and it gets all the afternoon sun. The other rose that came at the same time (Albertine) has flowered beautifully and my other roses are in full flower. Is this a late flowering variety?Asked on 6/7/2015 by plantcrazy from Romsey, Hampshire
These generally start flowering in midsummer, so you should start to see some flowers soon. You can also give it a bit of a push by feeding with a high potash fertiliser such as Tomorite or Sulphate of Potash.Answered on 10/7/2015 by Helen from crocus
This is my first year having some of these roses - I just wondered when to prune or cut dead flowers?
Basically some of the flowers have bloomed and now died away, I am quite new to roses so wondered whether I should dead-head or snip them off as each flower finishes blooming and dies away?
Also generally up to when should they continue flowering - around August or later?
All help much appreciated :)Asked on 20/6/2015 by gardeningNewbie from London
This rose will often bloom from July to September, and it will usually produce more if the spent flowers are removed as soon as they have faded - ideally cutting back the stem to the first leaf.Answered on 24/6/2015 by Helen from crocus
I bought one of these in a 4l pot and have just planted out. I just wondered how long after planting we can expect flowers? I am planning to put some feed in to help it (high potash) as we don't get much sun in this spot. I know all plants will vary but just looking for a rough estimate on how long they take to flower.
- thanks!Asked on 9/4/2015 by gardeningNewbie from United Kingdom
Unfortunately as you say it is really difficult to say how long it will take for any plant to flower as so many external factors can affect this, such as water, nutrients, sun etc. but it is generally a fast grower.
Although this rose will tolerate partial shade, it does need some sun to produce flowers.
Sorry we can't be more specific for you.
Hope this helps.
SorryAnswered on 14/4/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:Hi I need to replace a climbing Rose that has been plagued with mildew and black spot, have done everything to try to prevent it to not avail. Would this Rose work? It would be against a fense in a south west facing city garden in Glasgow?Asked on 6/4/2015 by Sunshine from Glasgow
Rosa 'Madame Alfred Carrière' is one of the healthier roses, so should be a good choice - as would Compassion http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/rosa-compassion/classid.1170/
or New Dawn http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/rosa-new-dawn/classid.77913/Answered on 8/4/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:Hi, I have a north facing fence that I need to cover. I need a plant that will grow well in a container so soil type isn't an issue as this area is decked, but it must be safe for dogs - mine have a tendency to chew my plants. I was hoping for a highly scented plant. It will be meeting up with a purple clematis viticella that is netted off in a border. Have you any suggestions please?Asked on 2/8/2013 by Whiskers from Leeds
There are a number of different climbers that you could use, but probably the option is for you to use our plant search facility, which is at the top of each page. There you can select the climbers etc by clicking on the images or text. This will take you to a more in depth search facility where you can select the aspect, plants suitable for containers, eventual size of plant, flower colour, main season of interest, etc. From this you will see our full range of plants that fit this criteria - all you need to do is choose the one you like for the area.
Regarding which plants are safe for your dog, we would recommend that you check with your vets, who should be able to advise you.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 5/8/2013 by Georgina from Crocus
Q:Madame 'Alfred Carriere' Rose- does it have thorns?
Hi there, the above rose would seem perfect for my garden, but I need to know one thing, ....is it thorny? I particularly want a thorny rose as I am planting it as a security aspect as well as for its looks. Many thanks, SharonAsked on 14/4/2010 by Sharon Boothroyde
A:Hello Sharon, These are beautiful roses and they do have thorns, but not masses of them. If you want as particularly thorny rose, then the Rosa rugosa species are the best - but they are large shrubs rather than climbers. http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.rugosa/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 14/4/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Disease resistant roses for a coastal area
Hi, Before I order some roses I need some information on which ones would grow well in our local conditions. I live in the far west of Cornwall, the soil is fairly acid,- Camellias grow well here. It's windy and the air is quite salt laden since we're not far from the sea. I'd like disease resistant plants if possilbe since the climbing roses by the cottage door do get black spot. At the moment, even here, where we hardly ever have a frost, there is 4 inches of snow on the ground and the temperature has been 0 to minus 1 for the past five days.... the postman hasn't reached us for four days! ...So, I won't be ordering the roses right now. Thanks, TrudiAsked on 9/1/2010 by Trudi Gurling
A:Hello Trudi, All roses need similar growing conditions, although a couple are slightly more tolerant of shade than others. If you click on the following link it will take you to all our roses that show some resistance to diseases. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/roses/plcid.8/vid.243/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 11/1/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Climbers for North East facing wall
Hi I was just wondering if you could give me some advice please. Our house is a Victorian end of terrace - the side of the house faces North-East. The side of the house is very bare (only two tiny windows on ground floor) and we would like to grow something up the wall. We have had trouble with graffiti in the past and want to paint the side of the house and then put trellis to about 7ft. Can you suggest something that would grow quite quickly please. Kind Regards JoannaAsked on 6/11/2009 by Joanna Swainson
A:Hello Joanna, If you click on the link below it will take you to our fast growing climbers, which will cope with low light levels. If you click into each card you can then see the eventual height and spread of each plant - some of them are pretty big. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/plcid.15/vid.186/vid.237/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 9/11/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Thank you so much Helen, this helps a lot.Answered on 9/11/2009 by Joanna Swainson
Q:How shouild I plant my rose?
Dear Sir/ Madam, Four years ago I bought a Rose 'Madame Alfred Carriere' from you. It has always lived in a large pot, and pruned back to keep small. I have now moved house, and have a garden in which to plant the rose. It has not taken well to the move, so wish to plant it out as soon as possible. What is the best method for doing this? Do I need to prune back first, or leave it as it is (about 3 feet)? What sort of hole should I make, etc.? I really do not wish to kill my rose as it has sentimental value. Yours HefinaAsked on 27/9/2009 by Hefina Sunderland
A:Hello There, These climbers do not like to be cut back, so you should just plant it out and in spring it should romp away. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 28/9/2009 by Hefina Sunderland
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