Rosa Gertrude Jekyll ('Ausbord') (PBR)
rose Gertrude Jekyll (shrub)
- Standard £4.99
- Click & collect FREE
Exceptionally splendid, fully petalled repeat-flowering bright-pink English rose that lights up a wall, a pergola, or stands and flows as a shrub - glowing handsomely
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: fertile, humus-rich, moist, well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: July and September
- Other features: excellent cut-flowers
- Hardiness: fully hardy
Beautiful, fragrant, double, deep pink flowers from July to September and greyish-green leaves. The flowers of this popular, repeat-flowering bush rose have a characteristic, old-fashioned fragrance. Performing best on fertile, moist, well-drained soil, it's best grown towards the back of the border in sun or partial shade. This rose was voted as the nations favourite in the BBC Gardeners' World poll in 2006 - so it is definitely worth finding a spot for it in the garden. More tolerant of shade than many other roses, it should still flower well with around 4 - 5 hours of direct sun every day.
All our roses are grown in an open field and then dug up when the weather conditions are right in October or November. Some suppliers send out their roses as 'bare root' plants (ie without pots or compost), but we pot ours up as it helps to keep the roots hydrated and in good condition. As they are dormant throughout the winter, they will not produce any new roots until spring, so don't be surprised if the compost falls away from the roots when you take them out of their pots. The roses can be kept in their pots throughout the winter provided they are kept well fed and watered, however ideally they should planted out as soon as possible. They will already have been cut back so no further pruning will be required, apart from snipping off any tips that have died back. Routine pruning can begin in late winter the year after planting.
- Garden care: If planting in winter, choose a frost-free spell when the soil is not frozen. Roses are quite deep-rooted plants so dig a deep hole roughly twice as wide as the plants roots and mix in a generous amount of composted organic matter. A top-dressing of a general purpose fertiliser can be worked into the surrounding soil and we also recommend using Rose Rootgrow at this stage to encourage better root development. This is particularly important when planting into a bed where roses have previously been grown as Rose Rootgrow is said to combat rose sickness (aka. replant disease).
Remove the plants from their pots and gently spread out the roots before placing them in the centre of the hole. Try to ensure that the 'bud union' (the point where the cultivated rose has been grafted onto the rootstock, and from where the shoots emerge) is at soil level. You can judge this quite easily by laying something flat, like a spade handle or bamboo cane, across the top of the hole. When they are at the right height, back-fill the hole, firming the soil down gently before watering the plant well.
Water generously until well established, and apply a specialist rose fertiliser (following the manufacturers instructions) each spring. They will also benefit from a generous mulch of composted farmyard manure in spring, but make sure this is kept away from the stems.
In late winter, pop on a pair of tough gloves and remove dead, damaged, diseased or congested branches completely. Then cut back vigorous new shoots by up to a third, and shorten strong side-shoots to within two or three buds of the main stems. If the centre of the shrub is becoming congested, remove one or two of the older stems to their base. After the first flush of flowers has faded, prompt dead-heading will encourage more flowers to form.
Do you want to ask a question about this?If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
Q:What types of plants are best grown under roses. I have a planted a Gertrude last autumn and it has flowered well this year. I had cleared a big space around the rose so it would have a good chance of establishing this year. But the ground does look bare now that it has finished flowering. What can I use to under plant it to complement or extend flowering interest. But not over take or harm the rose. I appreciate that it will get bigger and fill the space but the bare soil and weeds unattractive.Asked on 6/8/2016 by Hamble from Herts
I am not sure what a Gertrude is, however most geraniums do well, as do nepetas and lower-growing salvias, alliums and lavenders.Answered on 8/8/2016 by Helen from crocus
Q:If grown as a climber what would be its eventual spread?Asked on 8/5/2016 by Terry from Leeds
If tied into a support and grown as a climber, you could expect this rose to reach around 2m in height.Answered on 31/5/2016 by Helen from crocus
Q:If grown as a climber what would be its eventual spread?Asked on 7/5/2016 by Terry from Leeds
It really depends on how much you fan it out onto the support, but I would allow around 1m.Answered on 9/5/2016 by Helen from crocus
Q:When is the best time to move roses thank youAsked on 14/9/2014 by glo2014 from essex
The best time to transplant roses is when they are dormant through the winter, but not when the ground is frozen. Hope this helpsAnswered on 17/9/2014 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:I've read that this rose can be trained up a wall to about 8 feet. Is this correct or is there a different climber variety? Your eventual height says 1.25 metres. Many thanks!Asked on 26/7/2014 by Rosylea from London
This plant can be trained against a wall and if it is, it does tend to get taller than when grown as a free-standing shrub.Answered on 28/7/2014 by helen from crocus
It is difficult not to get excited about this fabulous group of plants. Their big, bold, brightly coloured flowers, coupled with their versatile growth habits, make this one of the most popular plant groups of all time. There is no secret to their successRead full article
Many flowering plants can be encouraged to produce better and longer-lasting displays with the minimum of effort. A plant produces flowers in order to reproduce and ensure the survival of the species. Once a plant has flowered and fertilisation has takenRead full article
Wildlife-friendly gardens are not only more interesting as you can watch all the comings and goings, but they are often more productive as many creatures will help increase pollination. Garden ponds act as a magnet to dragonflies and damsel flies, along wRead full article
Early-summer- flowering shrubs can be pruned this month to keep them vigorous and flowering well. It is also the ideal time to prune several trees that are prone to bleeding if pruned at other times, and it’s not too late to complete the pruning jobs forRead full article
The traditional cottage garden was an intensive, yet carefree mixture of fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers all crowded into a tiny space. Today, this informal charm can be recreated using modern varieties that largely take care of themselves around anRead full article
Early spring is a good time to start pruning roses The exact time will depend on where in the country you are and how cold it is. Pruning time is between mid-March through to early April, watch for when the buds start to swell, but before any leaves appeRead full article
Hybrid Musks mingle well with English honeysuckle and they are amongst the most fragrant and healthy. They perform from July onwards, after the main flush of most roses, so they are useful to the gardener. Hybrid Musks are still in the top drawer, despiteRead full article
At some stage in June, your garden will be a glorious affair full of scent and soft flower. Placing a posy from the garden, close to a family hub like the kitchen table, unites your home and garden as effectively as having a huge picture window. You don’tRead full article
The rose has been the nation’s favourite flower for centuries, prized for their fragrant blooms that make June the dreamiest month of the year. However late-autumn and winter, when these sleeping beauties are having their long rest, is the best time to pRead full article
Modern roses are generally bred to be repeat-flowering with a main flush in June, followed by further flowers throughout the season. These roses ration their flowers with five to six weeks between flushes, finishing with a late flourish in October, or eRead full article
Many climbing roses have over-large flowers on leggy stems, due to their old-fashioned Hybrid Tea blood. Their pliable stems are ideal for winding around a pillar before the new growth hardens, usually in October and November. This slows the sap and helpsRead full article
Roses get away extremely well when planted in their dormant season, between November and early March. Although they will be delivered potted up (to help keep the roots moist), the compost will fall away from the roots as you remove the rose from the pot aRead full article
Mature roses are generally pruned in early February, after the worst of the winter is over, using good secateurs like Felco no 2's or 6's. Pruning, just like planting, must only be done in good weather. Generally floribundas are cut back to 45cm.Read full article
Tidy up any fallen rose leaves now, especially if they look spotty because this is almost certainly a result of a fungal disease called black spot (Diplocarpon rosae). This debilitating disease leads to poor flowering and defoliation, but not all roses arRead full article
Early flowering roses tend to come in shades of white, pink or purple-pink and most forms of the biennial foxglove, Digitalis purpurea, have toning flowers in similar colours. These appear in rose time, but carry on after the first rose flush has finishedRead full article