- Position: full sun
- Soil: will tolerate most soils, except very chalky or badly drained
- Rate of growth: slow growing
- Ultimate size on pixy rootstock: 3 x 3m (10x10ft)
- Flowering period: April to May
- Flower colour: white
- Other features: top quality culinary or dessert plum (late September)
- Hardiness: fully hardy
A reliable, self-fertile plum which produces a heavy crop of large, pale red fruit with golden-yellow flesh, which can be used for cooking, canning, bottling or just eating fresh. The single, white flowers are produced in spring and fruiting picking can start in late August. It is one of the most popular plum trees available but does need the fruit to be thinned to avoid biennial fruiting. It is difficult to predict accurately when these trees will start to produce fruit, but as a general rule the potted ones usually start to produce a little after 2 - 3 years, but need between 3 - 5 years before they yield a good crop. The bare root plants may take a year or two longer.
Bare root plants will be supplied on Pixie rootstock and will be approximately 1.4m tall (including roots). The 10lt potted plants are currently approximately 1.5 - 1.8m tall (including pot).Bare root plants will be supplied on Pixie rootstock.
- Garden care: When planting incorporate lots of well-rotted garden compost in the planting hole and stake firmly. Prune in summer to reduce the risk of silver leaf and bacterial canker.
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6 Questions | 6 Answers
Displaying questions 1-6
Q:I bought a Victoria plum from you about three years ago and planted it in the autumn. The following year it had a few plums and was doing nicely. The second year it cropped quite heavily for a v young tree. This year it shot up to about seven feet but on the wrong stem and the wrong leaves and no flowers or plums. Obviously some graft stock has tqken over completely. I have now cut out all th v abundant and vigorous growth with the small leaves and left the plum leaves. Why did this happen? Was it a rogue tree? Will it survive? The non plum stem seems much more vigorous than the plum stem.Asked on 7/8/2013 by Eirin(welsh for plums) from Aberystwyth. Mid Wales
These plants are grafted, which effectively is joining two different plants together. This produces a plant that has the delicious fruit up top, but the vigour of the rootstock. With all grafted plants, you do need to keep an look out for any shoots coming from below the graft union as part of their overall maintenance, and these should be removed as soon as they appear. If you have removed this shoot in time, then the health and vigour of the scion (top part of the plant) wont be affected, but if you leave it, then it will eventually take over.Answered on 8/8/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Difference between your Victoria Plum trees...
Hi, I want to buy a Victoria Plum tree, but the varieties you have on offer are confusing me. What are the difference between them? Many Thanks, GeorginaAsked on 28/9/2009 by Georgina Leigh
A:Hello Georgina, We sell half standards, which are very small and have been trained like topiary to have a clear, straight stem around 50cm tall with a small ball of foliage on top. Then there are the feathered trees, that are grafted onto different rootstocks. The one on St Julian rootstock will produce a tree around 4 x 4m, while the one grafted onto Pixie will produce a tree that grows to 3 x 3m. Then finally the fan shaped on St Julian rootstock. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 28/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Help with Plum tree disease?
I have two Victoria plum trees. For several years now the fruit has been blighted with what I think is 'brown spot'. The fruit that isn't blighted is delicious, but each year I have more diseased fruit than good. Is there anything I do to combat the problem? I have recently wondered whether to take the drastic step of chopping them down. Regards JoanAsked on 27/9/2009 by Anonymous
A:Hello Joan, Plums are prone to loads of different pests and diseases, and unfortunately I have not been able to diagnose what is troubling yours from your description. If however you go on to a specialist fruit suppliers website like Ken Muir which has an excellent section on common pests and diseases. Then click on Ask Ken, select Plums in Ken's Clinic and then from the descriptions and photos he has on the site you may be able to find out more. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 28/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Victoria Plum Tree growing in a pot
Hello I have a new Victoria Plum tree that's in a tub that I bought it earlier this year. It got a bit waterlogged so I drained it and repotted it. I had a couple of white flowers and leaves on a centre spar but that's all. Does this mean that I have effectively killed it off, or should I wait until spring to see if I get any new growth? Regards LetitiaAsked on 20/9/2009 by Anonymous
A:Hello Letitia, I'm afraid it is difficult to know how badly damaged the tree is from your description, but I would wait until next spring to see if it puts on new growth. I'm sorry not to be more help. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 21/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:What is wrong with my Plum?
I have a Victoria plum tree (fan trained) and this year there is quite a good crop of plums, but many have turned into something more like prunes - rather sticky and purple coloured, with off-white coloured spots all over. Is there anything that I can do about this, perhaps for next year?Asked on 28/8/2006 by David Ellis
A:It sounds like your plum may have Brown Rot. The Brown Rot fungi affects almost all top fruits, particularly apples, pears, plums, peaches and nectarines. The fungi Sclerotinia fructigen (on apples) and Sclerotinia laxa (on other host plants) gains entry through injured skin. This initial injury can be caused by pecking birds, cracking due to frost or irregular growth and scab infections. The fungus can spread to adjacent healthy fruit by direct contact, or by insects, birds or rain splash that has come in to contact with the source of infection. Fruit can also contract the disease in storage. DAMAGE Brown Rot occurs as brown decaying patches (which later bear white concentric rings of spores) on ripening fruits. Infected fruits usually drop off, but sometimes remain attached to the tree and become mummified. CONTROL There are no chemicals available to control this disease. However, preventative measures can be taken. All overwintering sources of infection should be removed and destroyed by the early spring. Fallen fruits, mummified fruits and the short section of the spur to which the fruit was attached should be removed and burned immediately. From May onwards the crop should be examined at regular intervals and any infected fruits should be destroyed. Avoid or minimise possible causes of injury to fruits by taking appropriate measures of pest control. Codling Moth is one of the major factors causing injury. The fungus gains easy entry into fruits through bird pecks and wasp bites. Netting will keep birds of the fruit and jam jars hung from trees can be used to trap wasps. Smear a small amount of jam inside the jar and fill it with soapy water. The fungus may also enter the fruit at the site of scab infection so control measures should be implemented against this disease. Fruit thinning will also reduce the spread of Brown Rot from one fruit to the other by contact. Fruit that is put in to storage should be unblemished and checked at regular intervals.Answered on 29/8/2006 by Crocus
Q:Can I grow a Plum in a large pot ?
Can I grow a plum in a large pot - and if so what variety is best?Asked on 19/6/2006 by Tom Hill
A:Most plum trees are grafted, and what rootstock they are grafted onto will determine their eventual height and spread. As the name suggests, plum trees grafted onto Pixie rootstock will produce a dwarfing tree, with an eventual height and spread of just 3 x 3m, so these are the best options for pots. These tend to do very well in large pots, provided they are kept well fed and watered.Answered on 20/6/2006 by Crocus
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