- Standard £4.99
- Click & collect FREE
The best white double beyond a doubt - with a mixture of lemon and vanilla scent on a medium-shrub - adored by bees and very good with old-fashioned roses
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: fertile, well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: June and July
- Hardiness: fully hardy
In June and July this lovely deciduous shrub is smothered with highly fragrant, double, pure white flowers among dark green leaves that turn yellow in autumn. This tall, vigorous variety of mock orange looks wonderful towards the back of a mixed or shrub border, where on warm summer evenings, the delicate, orange-blossom fragrance floats on the breeze. It is a magnet for bees and can also cope with urban pollution and salt-laden air.
- Garden care: Mulch around the roots in spring with a deep layer of well-rotted garden compost or manure. Prune in late summer, immediately after flowering, removing one in four of the older stems to ground level.
Do you want to ask a question about this?If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
Q:Our Philadelphus has turned brown all over in the last 2 months and looks dead. Have you got any advice?Asked on 10/10/2015 by Curiousgardener from Derbyshire
This could be caused by a number of things and it is difficult to pinpoint a cause from your description. Keep in mind they are deciduous, so will lose their leaves in autumn naturally, but you can check to see if the plant is still alive by gently scraping your fingernail along a couple of the stems. If it is green just below the bark, then the plant is still alive and you should expect to see lots of new growth in spring next year.Answered on 12/10/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:Hi,are thinking of getting a Philadelphus,but wondering if this is a good time to be planting in our garden.Many thanks JaneAsked on 4/8/2014 by blossom from hertfordshire
As a general rule plants that are grown in containers can be planted at any time of the year as long as the soil isn't frozen solid. The best times are in the autumn when the soil is still warm enough to encourage root growth but the plant isn't in active growth, or the spring before the temperatures start to rise. You can also plant in mid summer as long as you make sure the plants are kept well watered.Answered on 5/8/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:Dear Crocus, Please could you tell me whether this mock orange could be grown in a large pot.Asked on 24/7/2014 by Novicegardener from Kingston
This will be happiest in the ground, but if you can find a really large pot (say at least 75 x 75cm and make sure you keep the plant well fed and watered then it should be OK. A better option would be to use Philadelphus 'Manteau d'Hermine' in the pot though as it is much more compact.Answered on 28/7/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:Dear Crocus. Last year i hard pruned an old Philadelphus after flowering and the new leaves which appeared were looking very healthy. After inspecting my garden this month i have noticed the leaves are browning and curling. I was wondering if the problem could be something to do with fire blight which resulted in us having to cut down an old cherry tree last year? Could it have been passed on through pruning? How can i help the Philadelphus? Thank youAsked on 13/3/2013 by honeybee13 from Birmingham
Philadelphus are not prone to fireblight, so I suspect the newly emerging foliage is getting cut back by a hard frost. This should stop as soon as the weather improves and then you should have lots of fresh new foliage emerging. I would however check for aphids and if the symptoms persist after the frosts have passed, then your plant may have picked up a virus. If that is the case, then it would be bad news I'm afraid there is no cure and the plant would need to be removed.Answered on 13/3/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Dear Crocus. Last year i hard pruned an old Philadelphus after it had finished flowering. The fresh new leaves looked healthy when they emerged but this year after inspecting my garden i noticed the leaves were brown and curling. We had a problem last year with fire blight on an old cherry tree and was wondering if this could have passed on by pruning? Is there anything i can do? Thank you.Asked on 6/3/2013 by honeybee from Birmingham
Philadelphus are not prone to fireblight, so I suspect the new growth is being knocked back by frost. As the weather improves, the new foliage will stop being affected in this way and you should have lots of fresh, green leaves.Answered on 7/3/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Specimen Ceanothus or another large bushy shrub....
Good afternoon, When I was first looking for a Ceanothus to replace the one we have in our front garden, I looked on your website, but you only had small ones. Our once lovely Ceanothus has been pruned out of all recognition again this year, as I planted it a bit too near our boundary when it was a baby. I know it may come back, but it is getting ridiculous as every time it grows back it has to be cut back again severely and then ooks a mess for most of the year. Have you got a nice, tall, bushy Ceanothus to replace it? I love my Ceanothus but perhaps if you don't have a big one, do you have another large, flowering shrub as an alternative? Hope you can help Regards MargaretAsked on 5/12/2009 by D DRAKETT
A:Hello Margaret, it is rare to find larger sized Ceanothus as they are usually quite short-lived and don't normally live longer than 6 - 8 years. We do have a selection of larger shrubs on our site like Hamamelis, Hydrangeas, Magnolias, Acer, Cornus, Cotinus, Philadelphus, Syringa and Viburnum, so you may find something of interest. They will be listed in this section. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 8/12/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Plant help with Camellia pruning, bugs on our Acer, Cornus not growing and our Philadelphus still not flowering!
I have some queries regarding a few plants purchased from Crocus which I'm hoping you can help me with. This year we purchased "Camellia ?? williamsii 'Debbie'" and it seems to be growing nicely already, however it's very straggly, it arrived with two stems tied to a cane. The stems have continues to grow, and it's now tied to a longer cane, but it's showing no signs of bushing out. Will it do this with more time or do we need to start pruning to encourage it? We also bought "Cornus alba 'Sibirica'(red-barked dogwood)" and have it in a nice sunny position. It's lost its leaves for the winter and the stems are lovely, but it hasn't grown at all since we bought it (in June). Is this normal or do I need to do anything specific to help it along? We bought a Japanese Maple "(Acer palmatum var. dissectum Atropurpureum Group)" a few years ago but has recently become infested with some kind of beetle. We didn't notice anything, until we were moving the tub at the weekend and found the tree, soil and side of the pot coated in little grey/brown beetles slightly bigger than aphids. I've sprayed it with a pesticide which seems to have killed them, but I'm wondering what they were and what if anything can be done to ensure they don't come back, preferably without having to keep coating it with pesticides. Finally, we also bought a Mock Orange (Philadelphus Manteau d'Hermine). We originally had it in a tub, where it grew at an enormous rate, but it had no flowers. This year it seemed to be pot-bound, so we transplanted it into the garden, in a nice sunny position. It has continued to grow in both width and height, but to date has still had no flowers. Any suggestions? Thanks MarkAsked on 21/10/2009 by Anonymous
A:Hello Mark, Young Camellias can be very variable in shape, and some pruning is often needed to encourage a balanced, bushy shape. If yours is long and thin, then you can encourage it to bush out by pinching out the growing tips and shorten over-long stems. Ideally this should be done in spring, after it has finished flowering but before the leaf buds break. As for the Cornus, it may simply be concentrating on putting on new root growth rather than top growth, or perhaps you have very heavy soil, which will slow growth down. You should not really be feeding many plants at this time of the year as you can do more harm than good by encouraging new growth at this time of the year. I would however expect to see some signs of growth in spring next year, at which point you can start feeding again. I am not really sure what insects you found on your Acer, but it may have been woodlice. These are completely harmless, but they do eat decaying organic matter such as leaves etc and they do like cool, damp spots to hide out in. Finally, there are a number of reasons why plants don't flower including too much shade, not enough water or nutrients, or pruning at the wrong time of the year. I am not really sure why yours has not produced buds, but you can often give them a bit of a push by feeding with a high potash fertiliser during the growing season. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 22/10/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:My Philadelphus doesn't flower
Please could you offer some advice. Last year we bought two Philadelphus plants. We planted one in the tiny back garden and one in the front garden and both have grown quite vigorously. Our problem is that they have not flowered and still show no signs of doing so. Is there anything I can do to encourage flowering? Lynda and ArthurAsked on 22/6/2009 by Lynda Styles
A:Hello there, There are a number of reasons why plants don't flower including too much shade, not enough water or nutrients, or pruning at the wrong time of the year. It can also be caused by the plant putting on new root growth instead of focusing its energies on producing flowers, which is quite common for things that have recenlty been planted. I am not really sure why yours has not produced buds, but you can often give them a bit of a push by feeding with a high potash fertiliser. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 22/6/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Late summer is the best time to prune many midsummer-flowering shrubs to keep them vigorous and flowering well. It is also the ideal time to prune several trees that are prone to bleeding if pruned at other times, and it’s not too late to complete the pruRead full article
Early-summer- flowering shrubs can be pruned this month to keep them vigorous and flowering well. It is also the ideal time to prune several trees that are prone to bleeding if pruned at other times, and it’s not too late to complete the pruning jobs forRead full article
Certain shrubs flower with the roses and Philadelphus 'Belle Etoile' has a citrus scent. The white flowers have a subtle maroon splash that picks up the colour of pink and purple-pink roses and this compact shrub will only reach man-height. The hint ofRead full article
Mock oranges vary greatly from huge leggy monsters, to compact twiggy bushes so it’s essential to choose the correct one. The smallest and slowest growing is ‘Manteau d’Hermine’ a double-white form, which rarely gets above one metre in height. This isRead full article