Narcissus 'Grand Primo'
tazetta daffodil bulbs
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: March and April, as early as December if forced
- Flower colour: creamy yellow with citron yellow cups
- Other features: excellent cut-flowers
- Hardiness: frost hardy (may need winter protection)
- Bulb size: 14/15
Reputed to be one of the most robust and floriferous of the daffodils, this old cultivar produces clusters of sweetly scented, pale yellow flowers, each with a darker yellow cup. Suitable for naturalising in the lawn or border, they can also be grown in bowls indoors and then planted out after flowering.- Garden care:
Wearing gloves plant bulbs 10-15cm deep and 10cm apart in autumn. After flowering feed with a balanced fertiliser, dead-head the flowers, but do not be tempted to cut back or tidy the foliage after flowering as this will interfere with the bulbs ability to store energy for the following year's flowers. - To force your daffodils: Plant them close together in bowls filled with bulb fibre. Make sure the growing tips are protruding just above the top of the compost. Put them in a cold, dark place, which will encourage the flowering stems and roots to develop before the leaves. Keep the bulb fibre just moist and leave them in the dark for 8 weeks - or until the new shoots are about 4-5cm tall. Once they have reached this height, bring them into a dark room away from bright sunlight. The leaves will gradually turn green and you can slowly increase the light levels as they do. The flowers will soon follow.
- Harmful if eaten/skin irritant
5 litre pot
available to order from autumn 2013
1.5 litre pot
available to order from late summer 2013
Bulb blindness
Symptoms Bulbs produce lovely foliage but no flowers. Either no buds at all appear or those that do are dry and virtually empty of petals. Daffodils (Narcissi) are usually the worst affects, especially multi-headed or double forms. Cause Occasionally this is caused by...
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