Liriope muscari 'Monroe White'


9cm pot
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£7.99 Buy
2 + 1 FREE 9cm pots
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£23.97 £15.98 Buy
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  • Position: partial to full shade, but will tolerate a sunnier spot if the soil is reliably moist.
  • Soil: well-drained, neutral to acid soil
  • Rate of growth: average
  • Flowering period: August to November
  • Hardiness: fully hardy

    A low maintenance plant that works equally well in containers or borders. It looks very effective when used to line the edges of a partially shaded pathway, or when planted throughout a woodland floor where it will add year-round interest. The larger than average, pure white flowers appear in short racemes at the top of green stalks and create a vibrant contrast to the rich green foliage.

  • Garden care: To encourage new growth, cut off tired-looking leaves down to the ground in spring. This is also the time to lift and divide large clumps.

Vinca minor f. alba 'Gertrude Jekyll'

lesser periwinkle

Abundance of small white flowers

£9.99 Buy

Epimedium × youngianum 'Niveum'


Heavenly pure white flowers

£6.99 Buy

Asarum europaeum

wild ginger

Lustrous foliage for a shady corner

£5.99 Buy

Blechnum spicant

hard fern , deer fern

Evergreen fern for acid soil

£9.99 Buy


by PowerReviews
CrocusLiriope muscari 'Monroe White'

(based on 1 review)

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Reviewed by 1 customer

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(1 of 1 customers found this review helpful)


Reliable, easy to grow

By barkleysmum

from merseyside

Verified Buyer


  • Accurate Instructions
  • Attractive
  • Fragrant
  • Hardy


    Best Uses

    • Garden

    Comments about Liriope muscari 'Monroe White':

    Great flowers with a light fragrance very at home in my heavy clay soil, with a bit of muck. Bought the white version to grow in shade so that the colour can pop.

    • Your Gardening Experience:
    • Experienced

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    Do you want to ask a question about this?

    If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
    10 Questions | 18 Answers
    Displaying questions 1-10
    • Q:

      Advice on Bamboo and Liriope

      Hi, I have a typically small back yard at my London Victorian terrace house. I have my heart set on bamboo and would like your advice on the best variety to buy. The width of the area I am looking to plant is just over 4 metres. I don't want it to spread and I don't want it to intrude too much in terms of depth and bushiness as it's a small garden. The one I'm looking at from your website is... Phyllostachys aureosulcata f. spectabilis - showy yellow-grove bamboo. Is this the right sort of thing? Or any other suggestions? How many plants would I need to buy to fit in the 4m width? Thanks Regards, Gabrielle
      Asked on 12/3/2010 by Gabrielle Kilpatrick

      3 answers

      • A:

        Hello again Gabrielle, Liriope will grow just about anywhere so they will be a good choice - although they will need more water in the sunnier position. As for spacing, I would plant them at around 20cm intervals. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

        Answered on 22/3/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
      • A:

        Hello, Many thanks for this advice. I think I will go with the Phyllostachys nigra. Now for another question........ I have 2 garden beds - both are 5 metres long and 50cm deep. One has a width of 30cm and is mostly shade. The other has a width of 15cm and has partial sun. Do you think Liriope would go well in both of these? How far apart do you space Liriope? Regards, Gabrielle

        Answered on 21/3/2010 by Gabrielle Kilpatrick
      • A:

        Hello Gabrielle, The Phyllostachys aureosulcata f. spectabilis is a spreading bamboo and has an eventual spread of 6m, so it is not ideal. A better option would be either Fargesia murieliae or Phyllostachys nigra Both of these are clump-forming, however even these will need to be dug up or 'managed' if you want them not to spread, as even the smallest one will get 1.5m cross. If you are trying to create a hedge effect, then I would recommend planting them at 50cm intervals. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

        Answered on 15/3/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
    • Q:

      Suggestions for dry shade under a tree

      Hello, I have a raised bed around the base of a twisted willow about 1.5metres diameter. Currently I have foxgloves, tulips and day lilies growing, which cope, but all flower early in the year. I've yet to find anything that will cope with these conditions that will flower later and keep the bed looking interesting. It gets a little morning sun on one side but is otherwise in the shade all day and is very dry. We live in France and that is not helping as we get very little rain in the summer and it is often very hot. Please can you help? Pauline
      Asked on 24/9/2009 by Eric and Pauline

      1 answer

    • Q:

      Plants for under a tree

      Hi, I am looking for plants that will survive under a tree with soil that is fairly dry, any recommendations? I would quite like to put grasses or hostas there but not sure if there are any varieties which would suit that environment! Regards Sue
      Asked on 22/9/2009 by sue cooper

      1 answer

    • Q:

      Growing plants under Apple Trees?

      Could you please let me know if there are any plants that can be grown under a small Apple tree. Kind Regards Pamela
      Asked on 18/8/2009 by Pamela Spiers

      5 answers

      • A:

        Dear Helen, I also have a Cherry Tree. I believe it is of the Stella variety, which has been in the ground for about 4 years. I need to take it out as it is growing far too large for my small garden. Could you please give
        me advice on how to cut the tree down, without doing damage to surrounding plants. I plan to
        replace the Cherry Tree with a small, bush variety of Pear, suitable for our climate, probably a Conference Pear. I look forward to your advice on removal of the Cherry Tree. Many thanks Pamela

        Answered on 11/7/2011 by Crocus Helpdesk
      • A:

        Hello Pamela, There is an excellent page on the RHS website about how to deal with Couch Grass. As for
        moving plants, autumn or early spring are the best times to do all this,so wait until the plants have become dormant and then you can start. Just make sure you have the new planting hole ready for them to go straight into - with a sprinkling of bonemeal, as this will help them get settled back in. I'm afraid there are no apples that are going to be better suited to your climate in Scotland as they all need
        the same conditions. You could also consider Cherries, Pears and Plums as these should be fine in Scotland, but make sure you choose a self fertile variety if you are only planting one. I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

        Answered on 9/7/2011 by Pamela Spiers
      • A:

        Hello Pamela, If the surrounding plants are very close to the tree, then it may be better to tackle this in the autumn when the plants are dormant and they can be temporarily lifted and moved. Failing that,the only way to tackle it is carefully, cutting it back in manageable chunks bit by bit. Once you get the branches and most of the stem down, then you may want to grind out the stump (you can hire a stump grinder), but this is a hefty bit of kit that will damage the surrounding plants unless they are moved. If you decide to keep the stump, then I would treat the fresh cut with a strong herbicide to make sure it is killed off. I hope this helps, Helen

        Answered on 18/10/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
      • A:

        Hello Pamela, There are loads of plants that would be suitable, here are some of my favorites Bergenia Pachysandra terminalis
        Ferns Liriope muscari I hope this helps. Helen Plant Doctor

        Answered on 16/10/2010 by Pamela Spiers
      • A:

        Dear Crocus Customer Helpdesk, Could you give me some further advice please. I have identified what I think is Couch Grass amongst a border with lots of other plants. Should I try to get rid of it now and can I isolate it without damaging other precious plants? I can't lift out all the other plants. I am also planning to make changes to the same border, to limit the number of plants for next Spring. I want to move some now and wonder if it is safe to do that now? I
        Also, I would like to plant one more fruit tree in what is a small garden in Scotland. I have had problems during two growing seasons with a James Grieve Apple Tree. I believe the apples have scab. I would like to know what other small Apple or Pear Trees would suit the climate here. I would be really grateful for advice on all these matters. I look forward to hearing from you. Kind Regards Pamela

        Answered on 19/8/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
    • Q:

      Difficult corner...

      Hi We have a problem area in our front garden. It is a triangular bed with two sides bounded by low walls, which form part of the boundaries to our property. The soil is more alkaline than acid, and has been described as silt, with quite a lot of flinty pebbles. Most of the front garden is lawn, with one rectangular bed below our kitchen window. Unfortunately for us the whole corner area is overshadowed from the south by our next door neighbour's tree. This is a walnut, which during the summer months cuts off most of the sunlight from the bed and which also throws a rain shadow over it. The tree is protected by a preservation order but it has had the crown lifted and thinned. It is now filling in downwards with flowers, leaves, nuts etc all falling into the triangular bed at regular intervals. It seems to dislike any neighbouring trees - we lost a rather lovely white-flowering prunus from our front lawn two years ago, the crown of which grew just high enough to touch a branch of the walnut. I have read that walnuts exude a toxic substance, to keep rivals at bay! We have one Camellia japonica (about 2.5 metres high) and one Fuchsia magellanica which apparently are reasonably happy in their situation ina corner. We planted a small Pittosporum tenuifolium (which is surviving but not at all happy) and two Ceanothus thyrsiflorus var. repens, both of which have died. We also planted six Vinca minor, three of which failed to survive. (The survivors have been moved to another bed). Are there any evergreen shrubs or perennials that might survive in this bed? We do want something that will at least partially block the view of a small block of flats on the opposite side of the road, but are finding it difficult to work out a solution to our present problem. So could you please suggest something that we could successfully plant, other than laurels or aucuba, both of which my wife dislikes. Kind regards Michael
      Asked on 19/7/2009 by Anonymous

      1 answer

    • Q:

      What can I plant on a shady grave please?

      Hi, I just wondered if you could offer me some advice. I want to put some plants around a grave which is right next to a tall hedge and is north facing, so it is quite shady spot for most of the day. The plants must be fairly low maintainace and hardy. Could you offer me a couple of good choices? I was hoping for something with a nice bit of colour on it for the warmer months (when people are more likely to visit). Obviously the size should be small to medium and not very fast growing so they dont take over too much. The soil is fairly well drained not sure of its pH.Thank you very much for your help. John
      Asked on 12/7/2009 by false

      1 answer

    • Q:

      Help with a Japanese-style corner please?

      Hello, I was wondering if you could please advise me with a planting related matter. We have a small area in front of our kitchen which has the (grotesque) wheelie bin next to it and then the front door. We thought a minimalist (fuss-free) Japanese scheme would work best. Because it is partially shaded, we decided that three Japanese Acers of different foliages (tall, medium, and small heights) placed in planters would brighten up that corner. However, before doing so, we wanted to know if the three Acers ought to have barriers between them or not and what plants would complement the Japanese look for ground cover, perhaps an ornamental grass. If so which varieties would work best for year round interest? Should we use a multipurpose compost for all these plants? We'd appreciate any other helpful tips you can give. Many thanks, Muna
      Asked on 10/7/2009 by Muna Hai

      3 answers

      • A:

        Hello Muna, My initial thought is that 1 Acer would probably be enough as most of them will get quite large as they grow. I am not really sure what you mean by needing barriers (roots or foliage screen?), as I have never heard of this with an Acer. Japanese Acers are beautiful plants and generally colour up well in autumn, but they will need a good amount of sun for this to happen, and then they lose all their leaves in winter, so you are left with bare twigs. Therefore your best option may be to have evergreen groundcover such as Liriope which looks a little like a grass, Pachysandra or Luzula to provide interest until the Acers puts on new growth again in the spring. Helen Plant Doctor

        Answered on 13/7/2009 by Muna Hai
      • A:

        Many thanks for the early reply, Helen as I do need to sort it all out soon. The barrier I was referring to was for the roots as I've been told Acers don't like to be fussed about with, which is why I was thinking Ishouldn't plant anything else around it in the same planter, other Acers,or even ground cover plants? Also, bearing in mind they're slow-growing, these are the Acers I've ordered. Please would let me know if I'm still mistaken in ordering so many? If there was one or two to keep and complement each other, which one(s) would they be? I probably still have time to change my order. Acer pseudoplatanus 'Brilliantissimum', Acer japonicum 'Aconitifolium', Acer palmatum 'Sango-kaku'. Thanks for the Liriope suggestion. Is Aureum (the one without flowers) similar? Regards, Muna

        Answered on 13/7/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
      • A:

        Hello again Muna, While it is true that Acers will not like disturbance to their roots, I have never heard of them needing a barrier, or that you cannot underplant them. When choosing what to plant it is
        worthwhile looking at the eventual height and spread of a plant. For example the Acer pseudoplatanus 'Brilliantissimum' will eventually grow to 6m tall x 8m wide, the Acer japonicum 'Aconitifolium' will grow to 5mtall x 6m wide and Acer palmatum 'Sango-Kaku' will grow to 6m tall x 5m wide. Therefore, the choice will be dependant on how much room you need to fill, and the effect you want to create. As for the Liriope, I have never heard of one called Aureum, so I am not sure which one you are
        referring to. Best regards, Helen Plant Doctor

        Answered on 13/7/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
    • Q:

      What can I grow under my neighbour's tree?

      Hi, We have a large Willow next door, which shades our garden and I can't seem to get anything to grow underneath it. We would like plants that do not require too much tendering.Can you help? Sam
      Asked on 3/7/2009 by Sam Whybrow

      1 answer

      • A:

        Hello Sam, I'm afraid the Willow tree will have a big influence on what you will be able to plant as the soil underneath it is likely to be very dry. Dry shade is one of the most inhospitable positions for plants so the best plants will be the toughest. Even these will need to be kept really well fed and watered if they are to survive. Here are your best options - Euonymus fortunei varieties, Alchemilla mollis, Pachysandra terminalis, Bergenias, Iris foetidissima, Lamiums, Liriope muscari and Cotoneaster dammeri.

        Answered on 8/7/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
    • Q:

      What will grow in heavy shade?

      Hoping I can get some hints from you. I have just had some improvements done to a pathway outside my house and want to do it justice by putting some nice plants to cheer it up. It is quite shady and would need to be plants that don't grow tall or spread wide. Thanks for any help. Ray.
      Asked on 25/6/2009 by raymond gee

      1 answer

      • A:

        Hello Ray, Very few plants will grow in deep shade, however it may be worthwhile considering the following. Bergenia, Cotoneaster dammeri, Liriope muscari, Pachysandra and Euonymus fortunei. I hope this gives you a few ideas, Helen Plant Doctor

        Answered on 4/7/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
    • Q:

      What can I plant in stony, shady soil

      Hi there, I really like the way inexperienced gardeners like myself can choose plants based on colour, location etc on your website. However I have a long stretch of border that is very shady and the soil is very stony (lots of little stones, not big ones). Would you be able to recommend some plants and shrubs that I could put here? I couldn't find this criteria on the website. With many thanks, Sally
      Asked on 15/6/2009 by Anonymous

      1 answer

      • A:

        Hello Sally, Dry shady areas are very difficult for plants as there will be very little moisture and nutrients in the soil. The best plants will be the toughest, however even these will need to be kept really well fed and watered if they are to survive. Here are some of your best options :- Euonymus fortunei varieties, Alchemilla mollis, Pachysandra terminalis, Bergenias, Iris foetidissima, Lamiums, Liriope muscari and Cotoneaster dammeri. I hope this gives you a few ideas. Helen Plant Doctor

        Answered on 16/6/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
    Displaying questions 1-10

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