Hydrangea paniculata 'Bombshell' (PBR)
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: moist, well-drained, moderately fertile, humus-rich soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: July to October
- Flower colour: creamy-white fading to pink
- Other features: the flower-heads are excellent in dried flower arrangements
- Hardiness: fully hardy
A recently introduced cultivar of Hydrangea paniculata, which is currently making a big splash 'on the scene'. It is unique because it has a compact habit, and almost rounded flowerheads, which appear prolifically for a long period from mid summer. It also tends to form a more branching shrub, than many of the other varieties currently available. A wonderful new plant, its creamy-white flowers often emerge with a pale pink eye, and this becomes more pronounced as the flowers mature during the summer.
- Garden care:To enhance flowering prune hard in early spring, cutting back the previous season's shoots to within a few buds of the permanent, woody framework of the plant.
- CAUTION toxic if eaten/skin & eye irritant
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Comments about Crocus Hydrangea paniculata'Bombshell':
The Hydrangea paniculata Bombshell is an excellent plant in this cat of Paniculata's as it is more compact than the rest and ideal to fit into boarders with not much space or containers on patios.
The plant sent in my opinion has been the best I have received while ordering plants online healthy and well packaged, first rate service from Crocus.
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Q:I bought a hydrangea paniculate 'bombshell' from crocus in October and planted it immediately in my rather heavy london soil.
It had lovely Autumn colour before the leaves fell.
Now it appears to have no shoots and in early April is not showing any sign of growth or leaves?
Is this normal for this plant?Asked on 3/4/2015 by Tim from Walthamstow -North East London
paniculata hydrangeas are much later into leaf than the macrophylla types, so I suspect you will just need to give it another 4 - 6 weeks.Answered on 8/4/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:I am looking to plant this hydrangea in front of my house. I chose this variety because of the colour as I am looking for Green/white also because of its low growth habit. I was wondering about the fading to pink. How Pink?? Many thanksAsked on 1/31/2014 by annie
It's not a bright pink, but the green/white flowers will gradually change colour as they mature to a definite pink.
Kind regardsAnswered on 2/3/2014 by Anonymous from Crocus
Q:You mention this hydrangea tends to form a more branching shrub. Forgive my ignorance but does this mean it sends out horizontal branches?Asked on 6/14/2013 by Hopeless from Surrey
Rather that 'horizontal' branches, this hydrangea is a more rounded 'open' shrub, not as dense as some other hydrangeas.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 6/17/2013 by Georgina from Crocus
Q:Can you tell me if this hydrangea will stay whit no matter what the soil type and if not could you tell me a variety that definitely will, many thanksAsked on 4/25/2013 by Sam
The flowers of this Hydrangea are initially greenish cream before turning pinkish white and then pink as they age - no matter what soil pH you have.Answered on 4/26/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Suggestions for planting low maintenance border please
Hello, I recently had my garden extended by a piece of land measuring 34 metres by 14 metres, and my son purchased 23 Phormiums from you in last August on my behalf. I was delighted with the service I received, and the plants appear to be thriving well especially considering the dreadful weather we have suffered this winter. We also bought Rootgrow from you to assist with their development ,and also for use when we moved mature Acers and other shrubs. I still need more shrubs or other types of plants and would appreciate some advice as to what to use. Along one of the 14 metre lengths there is a "hedge" of bamboo plants, and adjacent to these on the return (long) length there is a small rise of earth, tapering down to ground level, with a specimen black bamboo at the end of the mound. There is also a mature acer, which we had to move, situated at the edge of the dividing path (between the lawn) on the field side of the garden. Would it be possible for you to suggest the names of suitable plants which I could purchase from you and which would compliment the existing ones. I am in my eighties and therefore need a very low maintenance garden. I would also like to introduce a little colour if possible. My garden is very exposed and is on quite a windy site. I look forward to your reply.Asked on 2/15/2010 by Marian Burgess
A:Hello there, There are many plants that might tempt you - here are some of my favourites:- Fatsia japonica http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/fatsia-japonica/classid.3840/ Rodgersia http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.rodgersia/cat.plants/ Heuchera http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.heuchera/cat.plants/ Hydrangea paniculata http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.hydrangea-paniculata/ Aucuba japonica http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/aucuba-japonica/classid.277/ Rosa rugosa Alba http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/roses/shrub-rose/hedging/bush-rose/hedging-rose/other-shrub-rose/rosa-rugosa-alba/classid.1148/ Cotoneaster http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.cotoneaster/ Buddleja http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.buddleja/ I hope this helps, Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 2/16/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Specimen Ceanothus or another large bushy shrub....
Good afternoon, When I was first looking for a Ceanothus to replace the one we have in our front garden, I looked on your website, but you only had small ones. Our once lovely Ceanothus has been pruned out of all recognition again this year, as I planted it a bit too near our boundary when it was a baby. I know it may come back, but it is getting ridiculous as every time it grows back it has to be cut back again severely and then ooks a mess for most of the year. Have you got a nice, tall, bushy Ceanothus to replace it? I love my Ceanothus but perhaps if you don't have a big one, do you have another large, flowering shrub as an alternative? Hope you can help Regards MargaretAsked on 12/5/2009 by D DRAKETT
A:Hello Margaret, it is rare to find larger sized Ceanothus as they are usually quite short-lived and don't normally live longer than 6 - 8 years. We do have a selection of larger shrubs on our site like Hamamelis, Hydrangeas, Magnolias, Acer, Cornus, Cotinus, Philadelphus, Syringa and Viburnum, so you may find something of interest. They will be listed in this section. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 12/8/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Hello there, I have a wonderful Hydrangea 'Tricolor' which has just finished flowering for this year. However it is now getting too big for its space and I would like to move it. I am wondering if this is possible and if so if now is the best time to do this or if it would be better to wait till the spring. Hope you can help as it is a lovely plant and I do not want to lose it but it is definitely beginning to look unhappy in its current place, although the aspect is appropriate. Thanking you in advance for your time with this. LizAsked on 10/23/2009 by ldavidson
A:Dear Helen Thank you so much for your prompt and helpful reply to my
email about moving my Hydrangea. I will do as you say as I am very
keen for it to survive! Thanks again LizAnswered on 10/26/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Hello Liz, The best time to move established shrubs is in the autumn when the soil is still warm but the plant isn't in full active growth - so now is perfect. Begin by marking a circle around the shrub, as wide as the widest branch. Dig a trench along the line of this circle. Use a fork to loosen the soil around the root ball as you go to reduce its
size and weight so that it becomes manageable. When the root ball looks about the right size that you can still move it but there are still a lot of roots intact, begin to under cut the root ball with a sharp spade to sever the biggest woody roots. Roll up the root ball in sacking or plastic to protect the roots from damage and drying out. Move the shrub to a pre determined position. It is important to have the site ready so that you can transplant the shrub at once and it isn't left for hours (or worse!) drying out. Remove the sacking and plant the shrub in the new hole, at the depth at which it was previously planted. Firm well, water well and mulch with a good thick layer of well rotted farmyard manure. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 10/26/2009 by ldavidson
Q:Hydrangea not flowering
Hi I have a Hydrangea in my garden. For a few years it was in a pot but for some reason, it only ever seem to flower every other year. The autumn before last, I planted it in the border as it was getting too big to leave in a pot. It didn't flower last year so I was expecting it to bloom this year but it hasn't got a single flower. Around the beginning of the year I noticed the slugs had had a go at it as it was looking poorly. However, I sorted that problem and the foliage is looking really healthy but it still hasn't got a single flower. Any ideas about what could have gone wrong, please? Thanks SylviaAsked on 7/29/2009 by Sylvia Styles
A:Hello Sylvia, There are a number of reasons why plants don't flower, but the most likely cause of your problems are either a late frost killing off the buds, or it could be pruning at the wrong time of the year. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 7/30/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Rabbit proof shrubs
Dear Sirs We are planning to plant a 30mt long border with flowering shrubs and have assorted colours of Rhododendrons in mind. Our main concern is that the shrubs must be rabbit proof as the border is adjacent to woods and a large grassed area. Also, where possible we would like to have 'flowers' on the shrubs throughout the summer. Would you be able to provide a picking list of suitable shrubs? Thank you for your prompt attention AndyAsked on 6/15/2009 by Clark, Andy (buying)
A:Hello there, These are really troublesome pests, and there are no effective deterrents available (apart from getting a guard dog) which will be any help to you. They tend to prefer leaves and soft stems rather than flowers and woody stems, and they seem to prefer feeding in exposed positions and often nibble plants at the edge of borders. This habit can be used to the gardener's advantage by planting more valuable subjects in the centre of beds. In winter, when food is scarce, deciduous plants at the edge of beds will not interest rabbits, and will help protect winter flowers in the centre. Below is a list of flowering shrubs which they usually tend to leave alone. Buddleia davidii, Ceanothus Cistus Cotoneaster dammeri Deutzia Hebe Hypericum Hydrangea Mahonia aquifolium Potentilla fructicosa Rhododendron spp. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 6/17/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
The following notes can be used as a guide when pruning trees, shrubs and climbers in your garden during the month of March. It's timely advice if you have any of the following in your garden. Abeliophyllum, Artemesia, Brachyglottis, Brunfelsia, BuddlejaRead full article
Hydrangeas come in many guises, but the blue and pink mopheads and lacecaps that flower in summer are generally forms of Hydrangea macrophylla, an Asian species that prefers lots of summer rainfall and drier winters. This can be tricky in drier gardens, bRead full article