Hydrangea macrophylla 'Hot Red Violet'
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: moist, well-drained, moderately fertile, humus-rich soil
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: July and August
- Flower colour: deep pinkish red
- Other features: The flower-heads make excellent dried flower arrangements
- Hardiness: fully hardy
Recently introduced, this deciduous shrub produces unusually dark pinkish red flowerheads in mid- to late summer when grown on soils with a neutral pH. Compact and bushy, it is well suited to pots and containers.
- Garden care:To enhance flowering prune in spring, cutting back the flowered stems to a strong pair of buds below each flower-head. Once established, remove a quarter to a third of the old shoots to the base of the plant.
- CAUTION toxic if eaten/skin & eye irritant
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I bought a mophead hydrangea last year, planting it in October from a 2L pot. It still had a couple of pink mopheads, and was planted in the South East corner of our garden which is walled all around. Over winter the mopheads obviously fell off, as did all the foliage, leaving just 7-8 dead-looking woody stems protruding 5-6 inches up from the ground. Despite trying feeding, and being careful not to prune, I've only just recently (last 4 weeks) had any sign of growth, with new stems growing with a small amount of foliage, only reaching 3 inches from the ground. Is this normal for a newly planted hydrangea, or is there a problem with its position/pruning etc?
Many thanksAsked on 6/30/2013 by GingerPaulo from Ripon, N Yorks
Sorry to hear you are having a problem with your Hydrangea, I not sure exactly why yours is struggling,- many plants were slow coming into leaf this year because of the cold winter, but your hydrangea does seem rather late.
It was a young plant when it was planted so it could still be getting its roots down into the soil. But also hydrangeas do not like to dry out - they need well-drained or moist/ well-drained soil, so firstly make sure that it isn't a watering issue. Is it planted under or very close to a tree, - as trees roots are very aggressive and will take a lot of the moisture out of the soil. Otherwise I would continue with a multi purpose feed to encourage growth. Hope this helpsAnswered on 7/1/2013 by Georgina from Crocus
Q:What shade of blue will my Hydrangea be?
I have just looked at your blue Hydrangeas on the website, and I am curious to know, which picture shows the true likeness of colour for these plant? Thank you.Asked on 4/9/2010 by PATRICK BARRETT
A:Hello There, The flower colour of the Hydrangea flower will vary depending on the pH of your soil, so they are more blue in acidic soils and take on pink tones when planted in alkaline soils. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 4/12/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:What colour flower will a Hydrangea produce in a lime soil?
Hi, I like the Hydrangea macrophylla 'Endless Summer Blue' ('Bailmer') in a 5 litre pot. On the website it doesn't mention any specific soil requirements. What colour will the flowers be in lime soil? Thank you StephanieAsked on 3/8/2010 by Stephanie Thorne
A:Hello Stephanie Like all the other Hydrangeas, the flower colour of this cultivar will become pinker in alkaline soils, so ideally should be grown in neutral to acidic soils to keep the colour. I'm sorry for any confusion and will amend the details on our site to make this clearer. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 3/9/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Specimen Ceanothus or another large bushy shrub....
Good afternoon, When I was first looking for a Ceanothus to replace the one we have in our front garden, I looked on your website, but you only had small ones. Our once lovely Ceanothus has been pruned out of all recognition again this year, as I planted it a bit too near our boundary when it was a baby. I know it may come back, but it is getting ridiculous as every time it grows back it has to be cut back again severely and then ooks a mess for most of the year. Have you got a nice, tall, bushy Ceanothus to replace it? I love my Ceanothus but perhaps if you don't have a big one, do you have another large, flowering shrub as an alternative? Hope you can help Regards MargaretAsked on 12/5/2009 by D DRAKETT
A:Hello Margaret, it is rare to find larger sized Ceanothus as they are usually quite short-lived and don't normally live longer than 6 - 8 years. We do have a selection of larger shrubs on our site like Hamamelis, Hydrangeas, Magnolias, Acer, Cornus, Cotinus, Philadelphus, Syringa and Viburnum, so you may find something of interest. They will be listed in this section. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 12/8/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Hello there, I have a wonderful Hydrangea 'Tricolor' which has just finished flowering for this year. However it is now getting too big for its space and I would like to move it. I am wondering if this is possible and if so if now is the best time to do this or if it would be better to wait till the spring. Hope you can help as it is a lovely plant and I do not want to lose it but it is definitely beginning to look unhappy in its current place, although the aspect is appropriate. Thanking you in advance for your time with this. LizAsked on 10/23/2009 by ldavidson
A:Dear Helen Thank you so much for your prompt and helpful reply to my
email about moving my Hydrangea. I will do as you say as I am very
keen for it to survive! Thanks again LizAnswered on 10/26/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Hello Liz, The best time to move established shrubs is in the autumn when the soil is still warm but the plant isn't in full active growth - so now is perfect. Begin by marking a circle around the shrub, as wide as the widest branch. Dig a trench along the line of this circle. Use a fork to loosen the soil around the root ball as you go to reduce its
size and weight so that it becomes manageable. When the root ball looks about the right size that you can still move it but there are still a lot of roots intact, begin to under cut the root ball with a sharp spade to sever the biggest woody roots. Roll up the root ball in sacking or plastic to protect the roots from damage and drying out. Move the shrub to a pre determined position. It is important to have the site ready so that you can transplant the shrub at once and it isn't left for hours (or worse!) drying out. Remove the sacking and plant the shrub in the new hole, at the depth at which it was previously planted. Firm well, water well and mulch with a good thick layer of well rotted farmyard manure. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 10/26/2009 by ldavidson
Q:Hydrangea not flowering
Hi I have a Hydrangea in my garden. For a few years it was in a pot but for some reason, it only ever seem to flower every other year. The autumn before last, I planted it in the border as it was getting too big to leave in a pot. It didn't flower last year so I was expecting it to bloom this year but it hasn't got a single flower. Around the beginning of the year I noticed the slugs had had a go at it as it was looking poorly. However, I sorted that problem and the foliage is looking really healthy but it still hasn't got a single flower. Any ideas about what could have gone wrong, please? Thanks SylviaAsked on 7/29/2009 by Sylvia Styles
A:Hello Sylvia, There are a number of reasons why plants don't flower, but the most likely cause of your problems are either a late frost killing off the buds, or it could be pruning at the wrong time of the year. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 7/30/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Lacecap Hydrangea is not flowering?
Hi, I have a lacecap Hydragea which I planted in a pot. It has grown quite well this year, the leaves are very healthy, but I have no flowers on it. Can you help please? Kind Regards KimAsked on 7/7/2009 by Kim Nutbean
A:Hello Kim, There are a number of reasons why plants don't flower including too much shade, not enough water or nutrients, or pruning at the wrong time of the year. It can also be caused by the plant putting on new root growth instead of focusing its energies on producing flowers. I am not really sure why yours has not produced buds, but you can often give them a bit of a push by feeding with a high potash fertiliser such as Tomorite.Answered on 7/8/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Rabbit proof shrubs
Dear Sirs We are planning to plant a 30mt long border with flowering shrubs and have assorted colours of Rhododendrons in mind. Our main concern is that the shrubs must be rabbit proof as the border is adjacent to woods and a large grassed area. Also, where possible we would like to have 'flowers' on the shrubs throughout the summer. Would you be able to provide a picking list of suitable shrubs? Thank you for your prompt attention AndyAsked on 6/15/2009 by Clark, Andy (buying)
A:Hello there, These are really troublesome pests, and there are no effective deterrents available (apart from getting a guard dog) which will be any help to you. They tend to prefer leaves and soft stems rather than flowers and woody stems, and they seem to prefer feeding in exposed positions and often nibble plants at the edge of borders. This habit can be used to the gardener's advantage by planting more valuable subjects in the centre of beds. In winter, when food is scarce, deciduous plants at the edge of beds will not interest rabbits, and will help protect winter flowers in the centre. Below is a list of flowering shrubs which they usually tend to leave alone. Buddleia davidii, Ceanothus Cistus Cotoneaster dammeri Deutzia Hebe Hypericum Hydrangea Mahonia aquifolium Potentilla fructicosa Rhododendron spp. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 6/17/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
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