Hydrangea arborescens Strong Annabelle ('Abetwo')
sevenbark ( syn Incrediball )
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: moist, well-drained, moderately fertile, humus-rich soil
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: July to September
- Hardiness: fully hardy
This recently introduced Hydrangea has tougher branches than many of the other arborescens types, which means that as they mature they will stand up better in more exposed positions and will rarely flop over when laden with flowers. The glorious bundles of white flowers will also get larger as the plant grows older, but even when they are still quite young, they will put on a dazzling and long-lasting display from mid summer.
- Garden care: In hot weather, thoroughly soak the plants roots when watering to prevent it drying out. Remove faded flowerheads in spring after the danger of frosts, cutting back the flowered stems to a strong pair of buds and take out misplaced or diseased shoots. Once established, remove a quarter to a third of the shoots to the base of the plant. Cutting it back in this way will keep it compact and will also result in a branching, bushier shrub. Mulch young plants with a well-rotted manure or compost in spring.
- CAUTION toxic if eaten/skin & eye irritant
Reviewed by 2 customers
Displaying reviews 1-2
- Accurate Instructions
Comments about Crocus Hydrangea arborescensIncrediball('Abetwo'):
ordered product at 10.30 Tues morning product arrived 10.0 Wed less than 24 hrs amazing
product was packaged so it was impossible to be damaged whilst in transit and plant was of a good quality and size Now its for me to wait for nature to give me results
very pleased customer
- Your Gardening Experience:
- Keen but clueless
- Accurate Instructions
Comments about Crocus Hydrangea arborescensIncrediball('Abetwo'):
I counted 14 flowers on my shrub in the first season & will leave these on over winter.
The size of the flowers is impressive.
I bought this as the stems are stronger than the original Annabel, however I found they still benefit from some support which I am happy to provide for a great display.
- Your Gardening Experience:
Do you want to ask a question about this?If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
Q:Hi, I would like to create a row of these at the front of my house. How closely should I plant them and how many years is it usual for them to get to the 1m+ height? Thanks!Asked on 20/4/2015 by newtoallthisgardeningmalarky from Surrey
If you are creating a hedge effect, then I would suggest planting them at 45cm intervals.Answered on 21/4/2015 by Helen from crocus
Q:I have put a hydrangea Annabel in a pot am not sure if it's a strong one or not when would it be best to move it only planted this yearAsked on 8/16/2014 by Flowerpotty from Northamptonshire
Ideally these should be moved when they are fully dormant, so any time between late autumn and early spring, provided the ground is not frozen. As it is now growing in a pot however, it is possible to plant it out at any time of the year provided you keep the root disturbance to a minimum. If you tackle it during the warmer weather, do make sure it is kept well watered.Answered on 8/18/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:Dear Sirs I would like to plant some hydrangea Annabelle in large pots. Are they suitable for pots? Would the new stronger stem variety be better or our these with even bigger flower heads?? I have some in a border which are three years old and still quite weak, and the slugs seem to love them. Thank you so much for your help. Do let me know if they are just not suitable for pots at all. (in a west facing sunny garden)Asked on 6/19/2014 by Lucy Fenwick from Devon
I think 'Annabelle' is too big to comfortably fit into a pot, however Strong Annabelle is more compact and sturdier, so would be a much better option.Answered on 6/26/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:Specimen Ceanothus or another large bushy shrub....
Good afternoon, When I was first looking for a Ceanothus to replace the one we have in our front garden, I looked on your website, but you only had small ones. Our once lovely Ceanothus has been pruned out of all recognition again this year, as I planted it a bit too near our boundary when it was a baby. I know it may come back, but it is getting ridiculous as every time it grows back it has to be cut back again severely and then ooks a mess for most of the year. Have you got a nice, tall, bushy Ceanothus to replace it? I love my Ceanothus but perhaps if you don't have a big one, do you have another large, flowering shrub as an alternative? Hope you can help Regards MargaretAsked on 12/5/2009 by D DRAKETT
A:Hello Margaret, it is rare to find larger sized Ceanothus as they are usually quite short-lived and don't normally live longer than 6 - 8 years. We do have a selection of larger shrubs on our site like Hamamelis, Hydrangeas, Magnolias, Acer, Cornus, Cotinus, Philadelphus, Syringa and Viburnum, so you may find something of interest. They will be listed in this section. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 12/8/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Hydrangea Annabelle with some stems still not flowering?
I have a lovely Hydrangea Annabelle.But this was its second summer with a number of strong stems having no flowers. Shall I cut the stems back to the base? If so at what time of the year? Do I cut the stems with the flowers back to the base? If so at what time of the year? What is the best time to purchase and plant another one? Regards MartinAsked on 10/23/2009 by Martin Finch
A:Hello again Martin, It doesn't matter if they have flowered or not, the same rules apply for all. Best regards, Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 10/26/2009 by Martin Finch
A:Hi Helen, Thanks for your answer. What about the healthy stems but have no flowers shall I cut these back? Regards MartinAnswered on 10/26/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Hello Martin, These shrubs flower on the current seasons growth, but don't really require pruning. If however you feel it is too big, you can cut it back to a woody framework in early spring. Ideally you should cut it to around 25cm if it is in an exposed position, or to 60cm if it is tucked into the back of a border. In each subsequent spring, you can cut it back to the lowest pair of buds just above this framework. To encourage flowers to form, you should make sure it is kept well watered during summer and feed it with Sulphate of Potash following the instructions on the box. As for buying and planting, the best time is autumn or spring. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 10/26/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Hello there, I have a wonderful Hydrangea 'Tricolor' which has just finished flowering for this year. However it is now getting too big for its space and I would like to move it. I am wondering if this is possible and if so if now is the best time to do this or if it would be better to wait till the spring. Hope you can help as it is a lovely plant and I do not want to lose it but it is definitely beginning to look unhappy in its current place, although the aspect is appropriate. Thanking you in advance for your time with this. LizAsked on 10/23/2009 by ldavidson
A:Dear Helen Thank you so much for your prompt and helpful reply to my
email about moving my Hydrangea. I will do as you say as I am very
keen for it to survive! Thanks again LizAnswered on 10/26/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Hello Liz, The best time to move established shrubs is in the autumn when the soil is still warm but the plant isn't in full active growth - so now is perfect. Begin by marking a circle around the shrub, as wide as the widest branch. Dig a trench along the line of this circle. Use a fork to loosen the soil around the root ball as you go to reduce its
size and weight so that it becomes manageable. When the root ball looks about the right size that you can still move it but there are still a lot of roots intact, begin to under cut the root ball with a sharp spade to sever the biggest woody roots. Roll up the root ball in sacking or plastic to protect the roots from damage and drying out. Move the shrub to a pre determined position. It is important to have the site ready so that you can transplant the shrub at once and it isn't left for hours (or worse!) drying out. Remove the sacking and plant the shrub in the new hole, at the depth at which it was previously planted. Firm well, water well and mulch with a good thick layer of well rotted farmyard manure. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 10/26/2009 by ldavidson
Q:Hydrangea not flowering
Hi I have a Hydrangea in my garden. For a few years it was in a pot but for some reason, it only ever seem to flower every other year. The autumn before last, I planted it in the border as it was getting too big to leave in a pot. It didn't flower last year so I was expecting it to bloom this year but it hasn't got a single flower. Around the beginning of the year I noticed the slugs had had a go at it as it was looking poorly. However, I sorted that problem and the foliage is looking really healthy but it still hasn't got a single flower. Any ideas about what could have gone wrong, please? Thanks SylviaAsked on 7/29/2009 by Sylvia Styles
A:Hello Sylvia, There are a number of reasons why plants don't flower, but the most likely cause of your problems are either a late frost killing off the buds, or it could be pruning at the wrong time of the year. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 7/30/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle'
Dear Crocus I bought a Hydrangea arborescens 'Annabelle; from Crocus in May. I have had Hydrangeas before and compared to these the leaves on this plant were thin, papery and yellowish, not the usual strong and dark green leaf. The stems seemed thin and fragile but there were budding blooms so I planted it and hoped it would improve. It has bloomed and the flowers are beautiful, but the plant itself still seems weak and the stems don't seem able to support the flowers. Any ideas why and what can I do to save it apart from feeding it, which I have been doing? Help! It's too nice to loose! Regards NoreenAsked on 7/26/2009 by Noreen McGowan
A:Hello Noreen, These Hydrangeas are quite different to the mopeheads or lacecaps and it is quite normal for their stems to be thin and their foliage to be lighter in colour. Until they become better established, the flowerheads do weigh the stems down and they do need to be staked with bamboo canes to keep them upright. I would not be too concerned, but you should continue to feed it (according to the instructions on the packet of fertiliser you are using, and make sure it gets plenty of water throughout the summer. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 7/27/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Rabbit proof shrubs
Dear Sirs We are planning to plant a 30mt long border with flowering shrubs and have assorted colours of Rhododendrons in mind. Our main concern is that the shrubs must be rabbit proof as the border is adjacent to woods and a large grassed area. Also, where possible we would like to have 'flowers' on the shrubs throughout the summer. Would you be able to provide a picking list of suitable shrubs? Thank you for your prompt attention AndyAsked on 6/15/2009 by Clark, Andy (buying)
A:Hello there, These are really troublesome pests, and there are no effective deterrents available (apart from getting a guard dog) which will be any help to you. They tend to prefer leaves and soft stems rather than flowers and woody stems, and they seem to prefer feeding in exposed positions and often nibble plants at the edge of borders. This habit can be used to the gardener's advantage by planting more valuable subjects in the centre of beds. In winter, when food is scarce, deciduous plants at the edge of beds will not interest rabbits, and will help protect winter flowers in the centre. Below is a list of flowering shrubs which they usually tend to leave alone. Buddleia davidii, Ceanothus Cistus Cotoneaster dammeri Deutzia Hebe Hypericum Hydrangea Mahonia aquifolium Potentilla fructicosa Rhododendron spp. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 6/17/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Dear Crocus, I bought a white Hydrangea arborescens last year and planted it in a very large planter. It has plenty of drainage, and I have been feeding and watering it regularly, but it now seems to be dying. The leaves are crisping and dropping, and some of the flowers, even though they are not really blooming yet, appear floppy and on the way out. Please help - I was so looking forward to those lovely white mopheads later on in the year. The only thing I can think is that it's in a bit of a windy spot, but I don't see why that would have killed it. Look forward to hearing from you, thanks very much UrsulaAsked on 6/12/2009 by Ursula Doyle
A:Hello Ursula, Hydrangeas love lots of water, especially if they are in a sunny spot. Their leaves can also become scorched if they are subjected to strong winds. The best thing you can do is to make sure the drainage holes are not blocked in the bottom of the pot, and keep it really well watered - and if possible, move it to a more sheltered position. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 6/15/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
The following notes can be used as a guide when pruning trees, shrubs and climbers in your garden during the month of March. It's timely advice if you have any of the following in your garden. Abeliophyllum, Artemesia, Brachyglottis, Brunfelsia, BuddlejaRead full article
Hydrangeas come in many guises, but the blue and pink mopheads and lacecaps that flower in summer are generally forms of Hydrangea macrophylla, an Asian species that prefers lots of summer rainfall and drier winters. This can be tricky in drier gardens, bRead full article