Cotoneaster 'Hybridus Pendulus'
- Standard £4.99
- Next / named day £6.99
- Click & collect FREE
- Position: full sun or partial shade
- Soil: moderately fertile, well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: June
- Flower colour: white
- Hardiness: fully hardy
Pretty, small white flowers in June followed by showy, bright red, autumn berries. This upright evergreen or semi-evergreen shrub forms a lovely tree with weeping branches when grown as a standard. Like most Cotoneasters, it can tolerant a wide range of conditions including dry soil.
- Garden care: In late spring or early summer after flowering lightly cut back any branches that spoil the symmetry of the plant and apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or manure around the base of the plant. In autumn trim back lightly any branches that obscure the display of fruit.
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Q:My standard cotoneaster tree was planted 10 yrs ago looks like it is dying. Normally this time of year its starting to produce flowers and looking a lot healthier. Help!Asked on 26/3/2015 by Fern from Edinburgh
It is difficult to know why this might be happening without a bit more information. Has there been any changes to its surroundings, or are there any signs of pests and diseases? Perhaps you could have a look for these and then send us some photos so we can have a look.Answered on 2/4/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:Can you please tell me how tall are these plants when supplied?Asked on 30/8/2014 by Amherst from Somerset
These plants are currently around 1.5 - 1.8m tall.Answered on 1/9/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:Hi I bought this from you a few years ago, this year I have noticed two shoots from the base, the leaves on these shoots are a lot larger than those on the main tree - Are these suckers which should be removed? If they are suckers does this mean the tree may be under stress or is this natural? Thank you for your time.Asked on 21/7/2014 by G. from Cambridge, UK
These plants are top grafted (ie the top part of the plant is grafted to the top of the stem), so anything coming from the base should be removed as soon as it appears. It is not unusual for this to happen, but if you do not remove them as they appear, they will take over.Answered on 22/7/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:Just moved house and we we have a small wildlife pond underneath a cotoneaster Hybridus Pendulus. The berries keep falling into the pond - will they poison the wildlife, or am I okay to try and scoop out as many as I can each year? Worst case scenario, do I need to chop down the tree? Also, could I put fish into the pond, or is that a huge no-no?Asked on 19/3/2014 by Jmm31jan from Cambridgeshire
The berries are not poisonous to wildlife, in fact the birds love them but I don't know whether they are poisonous to fish. I would recommend that you speak to an aquatic specialist before you stock your pond with fish.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 20/3/2014 by Anonymous from Crocus
Q:can cotoneaster hybridus pendulus be grown permanently in a potAsked on 4/10/2013 by amatuer from Dublin
Yes, you could grow this is a container, although it might not reach it's full size. I would plant it in a really big pot, in John Innes No3, but it will need to fed and watered regularly.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 7/10/2013 by Anonymous from Crocus
Q:Specimen plant/tree for centre of lawn
Hello, I'm planning on having a specimen plant/tree to go into the centre of the lawn in our garden, but I'm unsure of what the best choice would be. The area isn't very large so ideally I'm looking for something that will not grow very big, no more than 5 feet in height would be ideal. I really like Cherry trees and Magnolias, but I'm unsure if there are any varieties that would be suitable. I would like it to flower, but I don't mind if it is deciduous or evergreen. Also, the position would be in full sun. Any suggestions would be really appreciated, Many thanks, Kindest regards, NickAsked on 14/4/2010 by Gleaming Gem
A:Hello Nick, I suspect these might be too big (5' is really extremely small for a tree), but there are a couple of very compact plants that may be suitable. Here are some of the best. Prunus mume Ben-chidori http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/trees/small-garden-trees/prunus-mume-beni-chidori/classid.2000011175/ Prunus Kiku-shidare-zakura http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/trees/other-trees/deciduous/small-garden-trees/ok-for-small-gardens/prunus-kiku-shidare-zakura/classid.4643/ Magnolia stellata http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/magnolia-stellata-/classid.4139/ Cotoneaster Hybridus Pendulous http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/trees/small-garden-trees/ok-for-small-gardens/cotoneaster-hybridus-pendulus/classid.2000003017/ I hope this gives you a few ideas. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 15/4/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Evergreen trees for screening please
Hello I hope you can help me. A client of mine wants to order 2 evergreen trees. They want them at the bottom of their garden for screening the house behind them. Thanks and regardsAsked on 17/3/2010 by Lisa
A:Hello There. There are really very few evergreen trees here in the UK, but the following link will take you to the ones we sell. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/trees/plcid.7/vid.228/ Best regards, Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 17/3/2010 by Lisa
Q:Suggestions for planting low maintenance border please
Hello, I recently had my garden extended by a piece of land measuring 34 metres by 14 metres, and my son purchased 23 Phormiums from you in last August on my behalf. I was delighted with the service I received, and the plants appear to be thriving well especially considering the dreadful weather we have suffered this winter. We also bought Rootgrow from you to assist with their development ,and also for use when we moved mature Acers and other shrubs. I still need more shrubs or other types of plants and would appreciate some advice as to what to use. Along one of the 14 metre lengths there is a "hedge" of bamboo plants, and adjacent to these on the return (long) length there is a small rise of earth, tapering down to ground level, with a specimen black bamboo at the end of the mound. There is also a mature acer, which we had to move, situated at the edge of the dividing path (between the lawn) on the field side of the garden. Would it be possible for you to suggest the names of suitable plants which I could purchase from you and which would compliment the existing ones. I am in my eighties and therefore need a very low maintenance garden. I would also like to introduce a little colour if possible. My garden is very exposed and is on quite a windy site. I look forward to your reply.Asked on 15/2/2010 by Marian Burgess
A:Hello there, There are many plants that might tempt you - here are some of my favourites:- Fatsia japonica http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/fatsia-japonica/classid.3840/ Rodgersia http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.rodgersia/cat.plants/ Heuchera http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.heuchera/cat.plants/ Hydrangea paniculata http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.hydrangea-paniculata/ Aucuba japonica http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/aucuba-japonica/classid.277/ Rosa rugosa Alba http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/roses/shrub-rose/hedging/bush-rose/hedging-rose/other-shrub-rose/rosa-rugosa-alba/classid.1148/ Cotoneaster http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.cotoneaster/ Buddleja http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.buddleja/ I hope this helps, Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 16/2/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Why hasn't my Cotoneaster produced fruit?
I bought a Cotoneaster shrub from you approx 18 months ago and it has not produced any berries. It did not even flower in the spring. Can you please tell me why?Asked on 27/9/2006 by email@example.com
A:It is relatively common for newly planted shrubs to direct all their attention into producing a good root system rather than flowers or fruit so it may just need time to settle in. There are however several other reasons why plants don't produce flowers (and later fruit). These include too much shade, not enough water during the summer months or it may just be the type of fertilizer you are using. Fertilizers that contain high amounts of nitrogen will promote lots of healthy leaf growth, while potash encourages fruit and flowers. Therefore, to give your Cotoneaster a bit of a push, you should feed it with Sulphate of Potash throughout the growing season.Answered on 28/9/2006 by Crocus
Q:Which plants are Deer proof?
I want a list of Deer proof plants please. It`s either a change in habitat or environment, but I get total devastation now and in the last two years they come up the drive.Asked on 3/2/2006 by david
A:Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful, but it is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual tastes which might like the bitter taste! Below is a list of good plants that generally are quite successful though. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Elaeagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally, fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer eat roses and some thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly will exclude them. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.Answered on 6/2/2006 by Crocus
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