Cornus sanguinea 'Midwinter Fire'
- Standard £4.99
- Next / named day £6.99
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A twiggy ‘bonfire’ with winter stems in shades of orange and red at the upper tips to mustard-yellow down below
- Position: full sun to part shade
- Soil: any moderately fertile soil
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Flowering period: June
- Hardiness: fully hardy
This deciduous shrub has oval, mid-green leaves and produces small, creamy-white flowers in May and June. But it's really grown for the brilliant, flame-coloured stems that are revealed when the leaves, which turn orange-yellow in autumn, fall. This fabulous dogwood looks best planted in groups in damp areas of the garden, beside water, or in a winter border. One of our recommended plants, it's best in full sun, and works particularly well with red or purple-stemmed varieties of dogwood.
- Garden care: For best stem colour, cut the stems back hard to within 5-7cm (2-3in) from the ground in March and apply a generous 5-7cm (2-3in) mulch of well-rotted garden compost or horse manure around the base of the plant.
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Q:I am moving house and I want to take my Cornus sanguinea 'Midwinter Fire' with me. It is about 3 years old. What is the best way to transplant it? I will be moving in November.Asked on 4/9/2016 by sweetpea from United Kingdom
The best time to lift it is when it is completely dormant, and you will need to dig up as much of the rootball as you possibly can. You can then pot it up into a large pot to move it to its new home, but do make sure it is kept well watered until it is happily re-established.Answered on 28/9/2016 by Helen from crocus
Q:I have just purchased a midwinter fire, 2 litre pot. The pruning advise suggests cutting back hard to within 2-3 ins. The plant doesn't look very big at the moment lots of thin twigs coming at all angles. So can you tell me if I should prune this first year of receiving the plant and if so do I prune all branches even the ones below 2/3 ins in height that come out of the side of the plant. There were no instructions in with the plant and I don't want to do the wrong thing. Thank you.Asked on 5/3/2015 by sweetpea from kent
No I wouldn't prune for a couple of years. I would let it get established before you prune it back hard.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 6/3/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:When please is the best time to plant? I should like to buy some now late December but do not want to spoil their chances of survival by doing so at the wrong time of year.
Many thanks. Michael SmithAsked on 24/12/2014 by Master from Reading
These plants are fully hardy, so they can be planted at any time of the year provided the ground is not frozen.Answered on 29/12/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:can I move a large 3year old mid winter fire cornus, and can it be divided? Cornus grow well in our Wealden clay.Asked on 21/9/2014 by plantaholic from East Sussex
It is possible to move any plant successfully, provide you dig up a good-sized rootball, but this plant cannot be divided.Answered on 22/9/2014 by helen from crocus
Q:Can the cornus snaguinea midwinter fire be planted in pots as i am looking for a varity of plants to grow in pots in my patio garden.Asked on 4/7/2014 by Novice gardener from Nottingham
Provided the pot is large enough and you make sure the plants are kept well fed and watered, then yes, they will grow quite well in pots.Answered on 8/7/2014 by helen from crocus
I've just recently bought a Cornus Saguinea 'Midwinter Fire' (2 litre pot) and wondered how fast and how big the plant will grow? The growing chart indicates a growth of 0.8m*1.5m which is fine but I wondered if it would grow like wild grass or bamboo and take over the surrounding area. If there is a chance that it would, would it be an idea to plant it in the pot, in the ground. Would this be successful and how would I go about doing it if it was to be done?
RoyAsked on 6/9/2013 by Roy from Edinburgh
It is very difficult to say how fast a particular plant will grow as this will be determined by a number of external factors such as the available water, light and nutrients as well as aspect and soil type. They are often grown in damp areas of the garden or alongside water where if the soil is damp it can grow to approx 1.5 x .80cm. It is a robust shrub and it can spread by suckering, but you can control the growth by pruning, infact you will get the best stem colour by cutting it back hard ,within 5-7cm (2-3in) from the ground in March and growing in full sun.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 9/9/2013 by Georgina from Crocus
Q:Creating a Winter Garden
Dear Crocus I am wanting to create a " winter garden " area and fancy an Acer griseum as the central feature. I had thought of planting a Cornus Midwinter Fire and Bergenia 'Bressingham Ruby' to complement the scheme but I would welcome any other suggestions please. Many thanks ClaireAsked on 26/2/2010 by CLAIRE LAWTON
A:Hello Claire, If you click on the following link it will take you to all our winter flowering plants. I would definitely recommend hellebores and snowdrops, perhaps some Cyclamen and and Euonymus fortunei for foliage colour. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/vid.204/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 1/3/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Specimen Ceanothus or another large bushy shrub....
Good afternoon, When I was first looking for a Ceanothus to replace the one we have in our front garden, I looked on your website, but you only had small ones. Our once lovely Ceanothus has been pruned out of all recognition again this year, as I planted it a bit too near our boundary when it was a baby. I know it may come back, but it is getting ridiculous as every time it grows back it has to be cut back again severely and then ooks a mess for most of the year. Have you got a nice, tall, bushy Ceanothus to replace it? I love my Ceanothus but perhaps if you don't have a big one, do you have another large, flowering shrub as an alternative? Hope you can help Regards MargaretAsked on 5/12/2009 by D DRAKETT
A:Hello Margaret, it is rare to find larger sized Ceanothus as they are usually quite short-lived and don't normally live longer than 6 - 8 years. We do have a selection of larger shrubs on our site like Hamamelis, Hydrangeas, Magnolias, Acer, Cornus, Cotinus, Philadelphus, Syringa and Viburnum, so you may find something of interest. They will be listed in this section. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 8/12/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Which plants are Deer proof?
I want a list of Deer proof plants please. It`s either a change in habitat or environment, but I get total devastation now and in the last two years they come up the drive.Asked on 3/2/2006 by david
A:Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful, but it is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual tastes which might like the bitter taste! Below is a list of good plants that generally are quite successful though. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Elaeagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally, fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer eat roses and some thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly will exclude them. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.Answered on 6/2/2006 by Crocus
Q:What can I plant that the deers won't eat?
What types of plants do deer not like? If you could help me out I could greatly appreciate it.Asked on 18/3/2005 by Kelly L. Sliker
A:Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful. It is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual taste which might like a bitter taste, but the following is a list of plants that generally are quite successful. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Eleagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer do eat roses and some other thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly tend to keep them out. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.Answered on 21/3/2005 by Crocus
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