lemon 'Four Seasons'
lemon
- Position: a sunny patio outside, or bright conservatory in winter
- Soil: moist but well-drained soil. John Innes No2 compost should be used when potting up
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: April to September
- Flower colour: white
- Other features: exceptionally flavoured lemons and deliciously scented flowers.
- Hardiness: tender (needs winter protection)
- Half price was £49.99
A remarkable, heavy-cropping, little tree with glossy, dark green leaves and smooth-skinned, bright golden fruit with exceptional flavour. This clever variety is unique in that it keeps on producing flowers from spring to autumn, so it is possible to have flowers, small, un-ripened fruit as well as ready-to-pick lemons on the plant at the same time. One of the hardiest lemon trees available, it can be grown on a sunny patio in summer, but will need an unheated conservatory or greenhouse to over-winter.
The plants may not arrive with fully developed lemons, but they are top-notch, quality plants. - Garden care: Ideally grow in a pot which is easily moved from terrace to conservatory, in soil-based compost. Feed every two weeks with a special citrus fertiliser (there is one for summer and another for winter), and pot on or top-dress plants in late winter. Move outside after the risk of frost has passed to a sunny, sheltered patio.
3 litre pot
within 2-3 days excludes weekends
8lt pot (60-80cm)
within 2-3 days excludes weekends
3 litre pot (bush)
within 2-3 days excludes weekends
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Q:
I have recently bought a mediterranean lemon tree,and made the mistake of putting the plant in a bowl of water,because it had dried out,now I have noticed there are small holes appearing in the leaves suggesting there might be some sort of mite eating my plant,do you have any suggestions that might help me sort this problem out,yours greatfullyAsked on 4/13/2013 by gamesgirl from south wales1 answer
A:
Hello,
I'm afraid I have not been able to determine what could be causing this from your description. Therefore your best bet would be to have a very close look at it and try to spot the culprits. If you can see them, please get back to me and I can then advise you on your best course of action.Answered on 4/15/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:
Dear Plant doctor
>
I have an orange tree which I have had for some 12 years and which has done really well. When we had the vast amount of rain last year, my plant got waterlogged to the extent that it lost all its leaves. I pruned the plant right back and let it dry out. Once it had dried out I started to feed it with VITAX citrus feed. Eventually new leaves started to shoot and they looked light green and very healthy. When the weather turned cold I took my plant indoors, as I always do. For about 2 months the plant was doing well and I have watered it now and then. Suddenly the little shoots from which spring new leaves turned black and fell off and now the new green leaves which the plant had grown are limp and are falling as well. The soil is damp and I am
worried that if I feed the plant with the liquid feed that I will overwater it again.
> The temperature of the room is about 17 centigrade in the daytime but drops to about 8 degrees at night.
> What should I do?
>
KarinAsked on 2/4/2013 by karin from Stonor, nr. Henley-on-Thames1 answer
A:
Hello,
Many plants die from over-watering, so I would stop watering it until the soil gets reasonably dry. Only then water it moderately, using just a half-strength fertiliser until it gets back on its feet again.
I hope this helps,Answered on 2/5/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:
Citrus problems....
Hi Folks, My Citrus calamondin is having a lot of leaf drop and now I have just discovered webs and small insects in the joins between the stalks and the main stems. Someone said 'red spider mites'. Does this sound likely? What should I treat it with and do you have anything? Best regards JohnAsked on 3/17/2010 by Kenward, John Keith1 answer
A:
Hello John, Citrus plants are prone to Red Spider Mites, especially when grown under glass. We do have a page on our site which lists the treatments, however keep in mind that if you use chemicals, you wont be able to eat the fruits. http://www.crocus.co.uk/pestsanddiseases/_/pests-and-diseases/house-plants/red-spider-mite/articleid.1143/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 3/17/2010 by Kenward, John Keith
Q:
Conservatory plants
Hi, I have a conservatory that is roasting in the summer and very cold, but not freezing in the winter. I would love to have a big plant in there- any ideas gratefully received ? Many thanks AileenAsked on 3/16/2010 by Aileen Jackson1 answer
A:
Hello Aileen, Ideally you should try to put up some blinds, which will keep the temperatures a little lower in summer, but here are a few suggestions, which I hope you will find helpful. Musa basjoo http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/perennials/exotics/musa-basjoo-/classid.1000000746/ Canna Durban http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/perennials/exotics/canna-durban/classid.2000009869/ or any of the citrus plants http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.citrus/ Best regards, Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 3/17/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:
Tuscan lemon tree care
I received today a Tuscan Lemon tree, and it is looking very healthy, but there were no specific instructions on how to care for it, and where and when to place outdoors. Can you help with instructions/care leaflet please? Many thanks. BrendaAsked on 3/13/2010 by Brenda Meliniotis1 answer
A:
Hello Brenda, Citrus are not the easiest plants to grow in the UK as we simply don't have the right climate for them, however if you follow the instructions below, you should be able to keep yours happy. Summer conditions Citrus plants are happy to stand outside after the spring frosts have ended (usually about the end of May). Plants should be placed in a shady spot and gradually crept into full sun over the course of a full week or so to prevent leaf scorch. They should remain in the sun for the rest of the summer. The more sun the better! If they are kept in a conservatory or greenhouse in the summer, they must have ample ventilation. Extreme care must be taken in late spring, before the plants have been moved outside, when the temperatures in conservatories and greenhouses can soar on sunny days, vents must be opened to prevent over heating. Winter conditions Before the first frosts appear plants must be moved into warmer conditions for the winter months. Citrus need as much light as possible. Small plants can be kept within the house on a south facing windowsill or by patio doors, away from radiators and larger plants, in conservatories or greenhouses. Whilst most citrus can withstand temperatures just about freezing, they will fare much better if kept a bit warmer. Try to avoid sudden extremes of temperature as this can stress plants and cause leaf and blossom drop. Temperatures in conservatories can vary considerably between day and night so ventilate them well during sunny days. Whilst indoors we suggest standing citrus in 'pot feet' in a tray so that the pot is never waterlogged. Never allow the plant to stand in water. Watering This is the key to successful Citrus growing. The plants should be watered, from the top, thoroughly. This means flushing plenty of water through the pot so the compost is completely soaked. Then the plant must be left to almost completely dry out between each watering. Gauging when plants need watering can be tricky, when the compost starts to dry the leaves may lack lustre, become dull and even start to droop. At this point you should feel several inches into the pot to check that it is dry. Finally check the weight of the pot which is very light when dry. It is better to under water than over water. Always flush the pot thoroughly with plenty of water and allow to drain away Do not water a little at a time. Do not stand plants in water as this will cause the roots to rot. Feeding Citrus are greedy plants and to get a good crop of fruit they need constant year round feeding every time the plant is watered. Foliar feeding but putting the feed solution through a sprayer once a week can greatly increase the set of fruit as waterings are few and far between in the winter months. It is a good idea to always keep a watering can full of mixed feed in the same room as the plant so that the roots don't get shock from cold water, which can stress the plant. Chempak Summer Citrus Feed http://www.crocus.co.uk/toolsandstuff/results/?ContentType=Product_Card&ClassID=1000000238&CategoryID=82 Chempak Winter Citrus Feed http://www.crocus.co.uk/toolsandstuff/results/?ContentType=Product_Card&ClassID=1000000237&CategoryID=82 I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 3/15/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:
Lemon tree repotting advice please?
Hello, at your open day last year I bought a lemon tree which is doing well and I am using the citrus feed. The tree is now .90cm tall in a 20cm pot which easily tips over so it needs to be put it into a bigger pot. I would like your advice on what size pot to put it in, what kind of soil/peat I should use, and can I do it now in January. Thank you for any help you may be able to give me.Asked on 1/14/2010 by Mary Allen1 answer
A:
Hello There, I am pleased to hear that your lemon is doing so well. Ideally you should wait another couple of weeks before you pot it up and choose a pot that is several sizes larger than the existing one. You can go as large as you like as eventually they will get quite big, but I would choose one that is in balance with the size of the plant and fill it with ericaceous compost. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 1/15/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:
Lemon Tree help please
Good afternoon, I purchased a lemon tree from you 2years ago which has been doing really well until the last month or so. It's planted in a patio pot and as I did the previous winter, I brought it indoors and positioned it in front of the French windows in the kitchen. However, apart from on the two new branches, the leaves have fallen off. The plant is about 5' tall with the two new branches being the top 1' or so of the plant so it looks really bare! I haven't pruned it since I bought it in, - would hard pruning bring it back or kill it off completely? Your advice would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards MaggieAsked on 1/6/2010 by Maggie Fletcher1 answer
A:
Hello Maggie, Citrus can be quite tricky and they do tend to shed all their leaves when they are stressed. This could be caused by a number of things including too much or too little water or temperatures that are too high or too low. I suspect that it may have been affected by the really cold weather we have had recently and pruning won't really help or hinder. I would try to get it through to spring and then see where it starts shooting from as this will give you a better indication of how and where to prune it to get the best shape. I'm sorry not to be more help. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 1/7/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:
Orange tree care help please
Dear Crocus, My order has just arrived -an orange (navelina), but there was no appropriate advice with it. I assume that it will be alright in my rather cold dining room during the winter. Should I repot it into a larger container in ericaceous compost, water with rainwater or melted snow, and feed with a winter citrus food? Any advice greatly appreciated, Thank you, AngelaAsked on 12/18/2009 by Angela Wardle2 answers
A:
Dear Helen, I have removed a couple of what appear to be scale insects from the citrus, plus a couple of curled leaves and will watch out for any more. Presumably removal is the best treatment. Thanks again AngelaAnswered on 12/21/2009 by Angela WardleA:
Hello Angela, I will paste some care tipsfor the Citrus below, which I hope will help. Summer conditions Citrus plants are happy to stand outside after the spring frosts have ended (usually about the end of May). Plants should be placed in a shady spot and gradually crept into full sun over the course of a full week or so to prevent leaf scorch. They should remain in the sun for the rest of the summer. The more sun the better! If they are kept in a conservatory or greenhouse in the summer, they must have ample ventilation. Extreme care must be taken in late spring, before the plants have been moved outside, when the temperatures in conservatories and greenhouses can soar on sunny days, vents must be opened to prevent over heating. Winter conditions Before the first frosts appear plants must be moved into warmer conditions for the winter months. Citrus need as much light as possible. Small plants can be kept within the house on a south facing windowsill or by patio doors, away from radiators and larger plants, in conservatories or greenhouses. Whilst most citrus can withstand temperatures just about freezing, they will fare much better if kept a bit warmer. Try to avoid sudden extremes of temperature as this can stress plants and cause leaf and blossom drop. Temperatures in conservatories can vary considerably between day and night so ventilate them well during sunny days. Whilst indoors we suggest standing citrus in 'pot feet' in a tray so that the pot is never waterlogged. Never allow the plant to stand in water Watering This is the key to successful Citrus growing. The plants should be watered, from the top, thoroughly. This means flushing plenty of water through the pot so the compost is completely soaked. Then the plant must be left to almost completely dry out between each watering. Gauging when plants need watering can be tricky, when the compost starts to dry the leaves may lack lustre, become dull and even start to droop. At this point you should feel several inches into the pot to check that it is dry. Finally check the weight of the pot which is very light when dry. It is better to under water than over water. Always flush the pot thoroughly with plenty of water and allow to drain away Do not water a little at a time. Do not stand plants in water as this will cause the roots to rot Feeding Citrus are greedy plants and to get a good crop of fruit they need constant year round feeding every time the plant is watered. Foliar feeding but putting the feed solution through a sprayer once a week can greatly increase the set of fruit as waterings are few and far between in the winter months. It is a good idea to always keep a watering can full of mixed feed in the same room as the plant so that the roots don't get shock from cold water, which can stress the plant. Chempak Summer Citrus Feed http://www.crocus.co.uk/toolsandstuff/results/?ContentType=Product_Card&ClassID=1000000238&CategoryID=82 Chempak Winter Citrus Feed http://www.crocus.co.uk/toolsandstuff/results/?ContentType=Product_Card&ClassID=1000000237&CategoryID=82 Best regards Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 12/21/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:
White bugs on my Lemon Tree?
We bought a lemon tree in late summer, and I've noticed now that the plant has some sort of bug infestation on the stems and underside of the leaves. These things are light brown and some are white in appearance and seem to be sticky. When I squashed one (they're very very small) there seemed to be some gooey style blood or liquid that came out of it. What are these and how can I get rid of them? Are these aphids, mites? Also, most of the leaves have fallen off the tree. We have kept in indoors for the last three months due to the cold in a good indirect sunlit spot. Is this normal for all the leaves to drop? Any help greatly appreciated.Asked on 12/14/2009 by bjbeau1 answer
A:
Hello There, It is quite normal for these trees to shed all their leaves when they have to adjust to new conditions, but this usually settles down after a few weeks. It is very difficult to keep them happy as indoor plants throughout winter as they dislike the central heating and low light levels. With their defenses down, this means they do become susceptible to all sorts of pests and diseases. I am not sure what insects are affecting yours, but the most likely culprits are either aphids or a type of scale. You can either remove these by hand or use a general purpose insecticide, but if you do the latter then you should not eat any developing fruits. I will also attach a care document for your lemons, which may help.
Summer conditions:- Citrus plants are happy to stand outside after the spring frosts have ended (usually about the end of May). Plants should be placed in a shady spot and gradually crept into full sun over the course of a full week or so to prevent leaf scorch. They should remain in the sun for the rest of the summer. The more sun the better! If they are kept in a conservatory or greenhouse in the summer, they must have ample ventilation. Extreme care must be taken in late spring, before the plants have been moved outside, when the temperatures in conservatories and greenhouses can soar on sunny days, vents must be opened to prevent over heating. Winter conditions:- Before the first frosts appear plants must be moved into warmer conditions for the winter months. Citrus need as much light as possible. Small plants can be kept within the house on a south facing windowsill or by patio doors, away from radiators and larger plants, in conservatories or greenhouses. Whilst most citrus can withstand
temperatures just about freezing, they will fare much better if kept a bit warmer. Try to avoid sudden extremes of temperature as this can stress plants and cause leaf and blossom drop. Temperatures in conservatories can vary considerably between day and night so ventilate them well during sunny days. Whilst indoors we suggest standing citrus in 'pot feet' in a tray so that the pot is never waterlogged. Never allow the plant to stand in water Watering:- This is the key to successful Citrus growing. The plants should be watered, from the top, thoroughly. This means flushing plenty of water through the pot so the compost is completely soaked. Then the plant must be left to almost completely dry out between each watering. Gauging when plants need watering can be tricky, when the compost starts to dry the leaves may lack lustre, become dull and even start to droop. At this point you should feel several inches into the pot to check that it is dry. Finally check the weight of the pot which is very light when dry. It is better to under water than over water. Always flush the pot thoroughly with plenty of water and allow to drain away Do not water a little at a time.Do not stand plants in water as this will cause the roots to rot Feeding:- Citrus are greedy plants and to get a good crop of fruit they need constant year round feeding every
time the plant is watered. Foliar feeding but putting the feed solution through a sprayer once a week can greatly increase the set of fruit as waterings are few and far between in the winter months. It is a good idea to always keep a watering can full of mixed feed in the same room as the plant so that the roots don't get shock from cold water, which
can stress the plant. Chempak Summer Citrus Feed
http://www.crocus.co.uk/toolsandstuff/results/?ContentType=Product_Card&ClassID=1000000238&CategoryID=82 Chempak Winter Citrus Feed
http://www.crocus.co.uk/toolsandstuff/results/?ContentType=Product_Card&ClassID=1000000237&CategoryID=82
I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 12/15/2009 by bjbeau
Q:
When will your Lemon tree produce fruit?
Hi, I was thinking of buying your Lemon tree, but wanted to know how soon it will provide fruit? Thanks in advance, NigelAsked on 12/8/2009 by Yazdabadi, Nigel1 answer
A:
Hello Nigel, These are beautiful plants and they are ready to fruit now, so you may receive one with fruit already set - although unfortunately we cannot guarantee it. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 12/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Displaying questions 1-10Previous | Next »
Mediterranean
Mediterranean gardens can take on various guises from the rustic and rambling to the formal elegance of an Italian courtyard. However, they all have key features in common, including the use of exotic, sometimes tender, drought-tolerant plants in pots and...
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Lemons are the pushovers of the citrus world - twenty times easier to grow than oranges and better in gin and tonic too
Val Bourne - Garden Writer