Camellia japonica 'Adolphe Audusson'
- Position: partial shade (but not east-facing)
- Soil: moist but well-drained, humus-rich, acid soil (or ericaceous compost for container-grown specimens)
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: March to May
- Hardiness: fully hardy
A lovely camellia with large, semi-double, blood-red flowers offset by deep green, glossy leaves and compact, upright growth. This is arguably the best red camellia, with masses of flowers for many weeks. It's ideal for a mixed or spring border and the foliage provides an excellent foil for spring bulbs.
- Garden care: To prevent damage to the emerging buds and flowers protect from cold, dry winds and early morning sun. Water established plants in dry weather to prevent bud drop. Apply a balanced liquid fertiliser in mid-spring and again in June. Top-dress annually with shredded bark or well-rotted leaf mould. After flowering lightly trim or prune any branches that spoil the appearance of the plant.
Reviewed by 1 customer
Displaying review 1
Comments about Crocus Camellia japonica'Adolphe Audusson':
This is a beautiful Camellia.
It's the first one I've had and its been a real star. I bought it a couple of years ago and it's now matured into a real feature plant.
My patch suffers from cold coastal winds so for the first few years I had it in a pot in a sheltered sunny spot and with a bit of care it was quite happy. Last year I moved it into the garden taking care to find the perfect spot out of the wind and it has really thrived. I did mix in plenty of ericaceous compost when I moved it and I water when its been overly dry.
It's now smothered in flowers and the stunning big blooms will make anyone smile from march onwards.
- Your Gardening Experience:
- Keen but clueless
Do you want to ask a question about this?If so, click on the button and fill in the box below. We will post the question on the website, together with your alias (bunnykins, digger1, plantdotty etc etc) and where you are from (Sunningdale/Glasgow etc). We'll also post the answer to your question!
Q:I have not bought yet this wonderful camellia because I need to have it in a pot. I was thinking about a 10 L one, but I am not sure whether this type of camellia is suitable for it or I better choose another variety. I would be grateful if you could help me. Thank you very much.Asked on 26/3/2016 by Bren from London
Camellias generally tend to do really well in large pots, provided they are kept well fed and watered, however the smaller ones tend to be happiest in the long term.Answered on 29/3/2016 by Helen from crocus
Q:I read on this website that one shouldn't water camelias with tap water. So what kind of water should I use?Asked on 12/3/2015 by camelia72 from Stratford-upon-Avon
Some tap water can be very hard with a high mineral content in particular lime, which acid loving plants like Camellias won't like.
It really depends where you live in the country but ideally rainwater is best for watering your plants.
Hope this helps.Answered on 2/4/2015 by Anonymous from crocus
Q:My Adolphe Audusson camellia, which flowered beautifully as usual, now has what look like fruits where the flowers were. Some fruit have two apparent divisions, others up to five. They are starting to turn red, and I suppose are ripening.
What should I do? Should I remove them, or let them go on burgeoning? None of my other three camellias have anything like them, and I've never seen them before! and nor have any of my friends.Asked on 20/7/2014 by havantaclu from Havant, Hampshire
Yes camellias can have fruits/seeds. You can remove them or leave the on the plant. They will eventually ripen and you can collect the seeds, but growing a camellia from seed can take years before they flower, if they ever do.
Hope this helpsAnswered on 21/7/2014 by Anonymous from crocus
I have what looks like a standard Camillia in my south facing sheltered garden here in Cornwall but it is facing East. It was here when I moved in 7 years ago but it has never grown bigger than just under 3' high or wide. I have never done a soil test but I have planted a Hebe next to it last year that has had rapid growth. It is planted in lawn slightly away from a stone wall hedge. I gets sun for early afternoon. It flowers well, it's just so small! Shall I move it do you think? ThanksAsked on 1/4/2013 by Crenver from West Cornwall
As it has been in the ground for so long, I suspect it will be difficult to move as it will probably have a fairly substantial rootball. If however you want to try to move it, then I would wait until late autumn when it is fully dormant and make sure you get as big a rootball as possible. It should be moved to its new home as soon as possible and will need to be kept really well watered for the first year.Answered on 2/4/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Could you tell me is this just a bare twig or does it have buds.
Kind RegardsAsked on 6/3/2013 by LouiseN
These are evergreen, so will retain their leaves throughout winter. At this time of the year they will be budding up nicely before putting on new growth in spring.Answered on 6/3/2013 by Helen from Crocus
I have a number of Camellias, which are flowering well. But one has developed brown leaves, with shrunken buds. It is West facing and sheltered, so frost bite seems an unlikely cause. It has been very vigorous for about 5 years + What might be the problem? Any cure? MichaelAsked on 7/4/2010 by Michael McAvoy
A:Hello Michael, I'm afraid I have not been able to determine what has happened to your Camellia to cause this browning. A spell of drought may be the cause, but this would normally take several weeks (if not months) to become apparent, so the damage may have occurred weeks ago. Other more serious things to be aware of are Pestalotiopsis, which is caused by a fungus or Phytopthora, a much more serious problem that is untreatable. I'm sorry not to be more help. HelenAnswered on 8/4/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Winter flowering shrubs and climbers to plant with new hedge
Hello, I have newly planted a hedge (made up from Hornbeam, Rosa rugosa, Blackthorn, Cornus, Hawthorn and Hazel) about 50ft long. I have been told that if I was to plant amongst the hedge some winter flowering Clematis such as 'Wisley Cream' it would give some nice colour these bleak winter months when the hedge is bare of foliage. The hedge is south facing and although the ground is ???good??? heavy Cambridgeshire clay the hedge has been planted in a trench back filled with leaf mulch, chipped wood and spent peat. Although I have said about in-planting Clematis in the hedge, I am open to other plant suggestions if you have any. Regards TerryAsked on 31/12/2009 by Terry Allum
A:Hello Terry, If you click on the following link it will take you to all our winter flowering climbers - of which the Jasminum is tougher and more like a shrub. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/climbers/plcid.15/vid.204/ Alternatively, this link will take you to all our winter flowering shrubs. http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/shrubs/plcid.1/vid.204/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 5/1/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Plant help with Camellia pruning, bugs on our Acer, Cornus not growing and our Philadelphus still not flowering!
I have some queries regarding a few plants purchased from Crocus which I'm hoping you can help me with. This year we purchased "Camellia ?? williamsii 'Debbie'" and it seems to be growing nicely already, however it's very straggly, it arrived with two stems tied to a cane. The stems have continues to grow, and it's now tied to a longer cane, but it's showing no signs of bushing out. Will it do this with more time or do we need to start pruning to encourage it? We also bought "Cornus alba 'Sibirica'(red-barked dogwood)" and have it in a nice sunny position. It's lost its leaves for the winter and the stems are lovely, but it hasn't grown at all since we bought it (in June). Is this normal or do I need to do anything specific to help it along? We bought a Japanese Maple "(Acer palmatum var. dissectum Atropurpureum Group)" a few years ago but has recently become infested with some kind of beetle. We didn't notice anything, until we were moving the tub at the weekend and found the tree, soil and side of the pot coated in little grey/brown beetles slightly bigger than aphids. I've sprayed it with a pesticide which seems to have killed them, but I'm wondering what they were and what if anything can be done to ensure they don't come back, preferably without having to keep coating it with pesticides. Finally, we also bought a Mock Orange (Philadelphus Manteau d'Hermine). We originally had it in a tub, where it grew at an enormous rate, but it had no flowers. This year it seemed to be pot-bound, so we transplanted it into the garden, in a nice sunny position. It has continued to grow in both width and height, but to date has still had no flowers. Any suggestions? Thanks MarkAsked on 21/10/2009 by Anonymous
A:Hello Mark, Young Camellias can be very variable in shape, and some pruning is often needed to encourage a balanced, bushy shape. If yours is long and thin, then you can encourage it to bush out by pinching out the growing tips and shorten over-long stems. Ideally this should be done in spring, after it has finished flowering but before the leaf buds break. As for the Cornus, it may simply be concentrating on putting on new root growth rather than top growth, or perhaps you have very heavy soil, which will slow growth down. You should not really be feeding many plants at this time of the year as you can do more harm than good by encouraging new growth at this time of the year. I would however expect to see some signs of growth in spring next year, at which point you can start feeding again. I am not really sure what insects you found on your Acer, but it may have been woodlice. These are completely harmless, but they do eat decaying organic matter such as leaves etc and they do like cool, damp spots to hide out in. Finally, there are a number of reasons why plants don't flower including too much shade, not enough water or nutrients, or pruning at the wrong time of the year. I am not really sure why yours has not produced buds, but you can often give them a bit of a push by feeding with a high potash fertiliser during the growing season. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 22/10/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Hello, I would like to buy my Mum something lovely to plant in her garden as a thank you gesture for putting up with me while I've been doing my degree. I have no idea where to start. I saw in an article about pink daffodils and thought that sounded lovely - is this the right time of year to buy them? Ideally I'd like to get her something that will last a long time, something that she can nurture, and also looks very pretty. Can you help me please? I look forward to hearing your thoughts. Many thanks, KatieAsked on 30/8/2009 by Katie Bowkett
A:Hello Helen, Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. As you open the back door there is a small decked area and she has a few small plants dotted around.The lawn, which is half moon shaped, and has a few different sized conifers and red geraniums. around it She likes planting things in terracota pots, As for the soil type, I really don't know. Best wishes, KatieAnswered on 2/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Hello Katie, There are so many lovely plants it is difficult to know where to start. It would help if you could give me an idea of what type of garden your mum had, if she has a preference for a particular style of planting scheme, how large the garden is, the soil type and aspect etc. I have checked our stock and unfortunately we are not selling the pink daffs this year, but we do have lots of other bulbs, many of which are good for naturalising, so she could leave them in the ground and let them spread over the years. I look forward to hearing from you soon. There Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 1/9/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Hello again Katie, I think the bulbs would be lovely, but they do make it hard to have a perfect lawn as after they have finished flowering, you should not cut them back until they have died right back - there is also the issue of digging them up to plant them. If however
you think she would love it, then you could plant a combination of the following - just click on the links to go straight to them.
snowdrops (flowering Jan-Feb)
Alternatively, perhaps you should opt for a nice pot and a flowering shrub like a Camellia
http://www.crocus.co.uk/search/_/search.rhododendron/ I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 1/9/2009 by Katie Bowkett
Q:When can I prune my Camellia?
I have a Camellia on my west-facing balcony in London. It is huge and laden with flowers but I'd love to know when I can cut it back to ensure I don't damage it.Asked on 17/4/2006 by Susie Dowdall
A:Mature Camellia's generally require very little pruning, but any that is necessary should be tackled after they have finished flowering, but before the growth buds break.Answered on 18/4/2006 by Crocus
Make the most of over 3000 years of gardening tradition by creating an oriental-style garden. Originally designed as a place for intellectual contemplation and meditation, they are an ideal sanctuary from the pressures of modern living. Japanese gardens aRead full article
Dried up buds fail to open then turn hard and brown. They are covered lots of tiny black bristly growths, which are full of spores. The plant is healthy in all other respects. The plants most commonly affected include rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias.Read full article
Buds form, sometimes to their full size and then drop off with no apparent reason. A period of dry weather while the buds are forming usually causes this. Camellia and rhododendrons are more susceptible and a few days of drought at the end of the summer cRead full article
Many shrubs, trees and climbers are showing signs of growth, so it is an ideal time to check them over for winter damage. If you feel they need a little care and attention, here are a few notes to use as a pruning guide. during April.Read full article
Most camellias need acid soil to do well. However the sasanquas, which flower between November and February, will tolerate good garden soil. They are found naturally in Southern Japan and have been grown in Japanese gardens for centuries as ornamentals anRead full article