baby new potato collection
baby new potato collection
- Position: sun-partial shade
- Soil: fertile, well drained
- Rate of growth: fast-growing
- Harvesting period: June to July
- Hardiness: protect tubers from frost
Great for gardeners who want to try different varieties, or have limited space and want to grow their potatoes on the patio, the 5 tubers in each pack are the perfect number to plant in our specialist planters.
This collection contains five tubers of each of the following six varieties.
- 'Casablanca': a new, multi-purpose first early potato with a smooth white skin, shallow eyes and a creamy flesh. A handsome potato, that is rapidly becoming the exhibitors (and chefs) favourite.
- 'Charlotte': a very popular salad variety, which produces pear-shaped, yellow skinned waxy potatoes with creamy-yellow flesh. They are full of flavour and delicious either hot or cold. This variety also has high resistance to foliage and tuber blight.
- 'International Kidney':This famous main crop potato International Kidney has been made famous by being grown and sold in supermarkets as a new potato. This kidney shaped Heritage potato has a delicious buttery flavour - excellent boiled or as a salad potato.
- 'Rocket': a very heavy cropping variety with pure white flesh, which is waxy and soft at first digging. Easy to grow, it produces a bumper, early crop. It also has good all round disease resistance .
- 'Swift': hailed as one of the earliest croppers, with white-skinned, oval potatoes that have a creamy coloured flesh that is ideal for boiling. Their compact habit makes them ideal for containers.
- 'Pink Fir Apple': This late maincrop potato has knobbly pink skinned tubers of butter yellow, waxy flesh. An unusual potato that's great as a salad potato but can also be used to make delicious chips - with a single tuber for each chip! It has been given an Award of Garden Merit (AGM) by the Royal Horticultural Society.
- Garden care: As soon as the potato tubers have been delivered you should unpack them and start the chitting (sprouting) process. Place them in single layer in a seed tray without compost and leave in a light, cool area protected from frost. This can be started about six weeks before you intend to plant them. Early varieties can be planted out under frost fleece protection, but the later varieties should be planted after the worst frosts have passed in your area - this is generally mid March to mid April. Dig a trench 8 - 13cm (3 - 5in) deep adding a general purpose fertiliser to the bottom of the trench. Plant the potato tubers in the trenches about 30cm (12in) apart, being careful not to knock the shoots off the tubers, and keeping the shoots facing upwards. Then lightly cover with soil. As the plants get to around 20cm (8in) tall you need to bank up the soil around the plant, so the soil covers the bottom two thirds of the plant. Watering your plants well will help improve crop yield and discourage potato scab.
These come in 6 'taster' packs, each containing 5 tubers (so you will receive 30 tubers in total)
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4 Questions | 5 Answers
Displaying questions 1-4
Q:Potato plants,- how much fertiliser should I apply?
Hi Crocus!! For some reason best known to the Almighty and the weather, my attempt at growing veg last season was a complete flop!!!!!!! Nothing came to maturity - - carrots germinated poorly and disappeared, onion sets sulked and refused to grow and leeks ended up looking like anemic grasses! This year I'm having a go at maincrop tatties. BUT -- I have bought potato fertiliser which does not tell me how much to use PER LINEAR yard. There is enough room for 5 rows each about 6 feet long. Could you please advise me how much fertiliser to use? Also, am I being daft trying potatoes when nothing else seemed to grow in the patch I'm using?? Thanks for any ENCOURAGING advice you can offer!!! Regards, IanAsked on 3/9/2010 by Ian Milne
A:Hello Ian, I am not really sure why you had such a dismal crop last year, but I would try to dig in as much composted organic matter as possible before you plant the potatoes to try to enrich the soil, and it may also be worthwhile doing a simple pH test. As for the fertiliser, they will all vary in strength and application rates, however if you bought ours:- http://www.crocus.co.uk/product/_/organic-potato-fertiliser/classid.2000008337/ then the application instructions are as follows. Use before planting between February and April. Apply 135 g/sq. m ( 4oz per sq. yd ) over the vacant plot and fork into soil. This is equivalent for typical pot sizes to: 30cm. ( 12 in.) diameter pot - 10g. 38cm. ( 15 in.) diameter pot - 15g. 50cm. ( 20 in.) diameter pot - 30g. I'm afraid though that you need to dig it in around the whole bed rather than just along the row - hence the instructions for sq.m. I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 3/11/2010 by Crocus Helpdesk
A:Many thanks for your advice. The quantities are just what I need., and I'll certainly try to enrich the soil in the hope of a decent crop of tatties!!!!!! Regards, IanAnswered on 3/14/2010 by Ian Milne
Q:Should I have more potatoes?
Hi there, I have just turned out a couple of my potato planters and don't get me wrong, I am really pleased with what has been produced in terms of quality, but quantity is an issue. All the potatoes seem to be in the bottom quarter of the sack with no potatoes in any of the soil above. I feel my interpretation of earthing up may have caused this. I started off with my potatoes being planted in the first part of the planter which was about 1/4 of the the total height and the seeds covered with compost etc. I then waited for them to start shooting and growing stems and leaves, at this stage they actually grew a further 2 quarters of the height of the planter out of the soil. I then back filled so the tops of the stems were just showing and then did this again when at the top, which now left me with a full planter. I used potato fertilizer and kept watered well. 13 weeks later I have harvested them and got about 40 potatoes from 3 seeds, but like I said before only in the bottom section. The question is when earthing up, should I constantly be fully covering over the new growth until it reaches the top. The quality of the harvest is very good and I am very pleased, but next year want to make sure I do it correctly and get a bigger crop. DarrenAsked on 18/6/2009 by Darren Sainsbury
A:xAnswered on 2/6/2015 by Anonymous
Q:When do I plant potatoes and other veg?
When is the best time to plants potatoes? Also can you advise me what veg I could grow now until March with poly tunnels?Asked on 10/4/2006 by Bets Ingram
A:You can start chitting your early and maincrop seed potatoes in February, but the best time to plant is in early to mid spring. As for growing vegetables in your polytunnels, you have lots of options. Spinach, kale, and some varieties of lettuce will live through the winter in a polytunnel. Certain kinds of onion work well from an autumn sowing, and you'll get a much earlier crop than if you'd waited until spring. Other possibilities are cabbage, Pak Choy, Chinese cabbage, and most root crops. Leeks, beets, carrots, turnips, parsnips and radishes, can be sown for winter harvestAnswered on 10/5/2006 by Crocus
Q:Am I too late to grow vegetables?
I'd love to grow my own potatoes, onions and carrots, which I use a lot in the kitchen, but don't know where to start or if I'm too late. Please can you advise me?Asked on 1/24/2006 by Debora Everard
A:Now is the perfect time to start thinking about growing potatoes, as they need to be chitted before planting. Chitting just encourages shoots to grow before you pop them in the soil in early spring. The onion sets can be planted in March or April, while carrot seeds can be sown from late February as long as they are protected.Answered on 1/25/2006 by Crocus
Displaying questions 1-4