apple 'Cox's Orange Pippin'
apple Cox's Orange Pippin
- Position: full sun
- Soil: fertile, well-drained soil
- Rate of growth: average to fast-growing
- Ultimate size (M26): 2.7x2.7m (9x9ft)
- Flowering period: April and May
- Hardiness: frost hardy (may need winter protection, particularly in colder parts of the country)
- Pollination Group: Partially self fertile - but for a bumper crop use a apple from group C - flowering mid season
This upright, spreading tree is covered in pure white, cup-shaped flowers in mid- and late spring, followed by first class, juicy dessert apples for harvesting in early to mid-October. A moderately vigorous variety producing arguably the best British eating apple, it prefers a sheltered spot so is not best suited to colder parts of the country.
- Garden care: Keep the base of the tree weed free, fertilise at the beginning of each year and water regularly during hot, dry spells.
The main prune should be done in the winter as long as it isn't frosty or freezing. Take out the 3D’s (dead, dying and diseased wood) and create an open shape. Then reduce the leaders back by a third. Aim to create an airy structure without any crisscrossing branches.
Summer prune in August by shortening any side shoots (or laterals) which are longer than 20cm back to three leaves. This will allow the sun to ripen the fruit and encourage more fruit buds. Make sure that the growth you’re cutting away feels firm to the touch.
- Pollination Information: This apple belongs to pollination group C, so you will need to plant one other different variety of apple to guarantee cross pollination, and a subsequent bumper crop. Ideally this should come from the same pollination group, however it is possible to use one from group B or D as well.
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3 Questions | 3 Answers
Displaying questions 1-3
The little bunnies have got through my rabbit wire mesh surrounding three, three-year-old fruit trees and nibbled every scrap of bark off the trunk from the base to standing on back legs height (about two feet up). I put some vaseline over and covered with black plastic. Do you think the trees will survive or should I remove now and replace? thank you.Asked on 6/3/2013 by Gransden Blue from Gransden, Sandy, Bedfordshire
It is difficult to say without seeing them, but if the trees have been ring-barked (ie. all the bark removed around the circumference of the trunk right back to the woody tissue), then they will probably die. If however the damage is not too deep, then there is a chance the trees will survive. I think the best course of action now would be to give the trees a chance to rally, but if there are no signs of life by late April, then I'm afraid you may need to replace them.Answered on 7/3/2013 by Helen from Crocus
Q:Small fruit tree for pot
Hi there, I have some tokens for Crocus which I would like to put towards a fruit tree. The main requirement is finding a species which can grow in a large pot, at least until I move to a bigger location. Can you advise as to which would be best suited for this situation? I am most interested in an apple or pear, but if there is something else you can suggest, I???m keen to hear your ideas. Many thanks DianeAsked on 29/12/2009 by Diane Thistlethwaite
A:Hello Diane, Generally apples and pears will need a pollinating partner to guarantee a good crop of fruit, however there are a couple of self fertile varieties. The eventual height (and therefore their suitability for a pot) is determined by the rootstock that they are grafted onto. If you click on the following links it will take you to the self fertile apples, which if you select the M26 or M27 rootstock, these should be happy in a really large pot for several years provided they are kept well fed and watered.
http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/fruit/bush/deciduous/orchard-fruit/apple/kitchengarden/fruit/fruit-trees/apple-coxs-orange-pippin/classid.2000016222 http://www.crocus.co.uk/plants/_/fruit/bush/deciduous/orchard-fruit/apple/kitchengarden/fruit/fruit-trees/apple-scrumptious/classid.2000013050 I hope this helps. Helen Plant DoctorAnswered on 30/12/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:My apple tree is being choked by ivy
I have just moved house and now have an old apple tree that is covered in very thick ivy. What is the best treatment if any?Asked on 31/7/2005 by val gray
A:Your apple tree will get a new lease on life if you can get rid of the ivy. The best way to tackle it is up a ladder. As gently as you can you should peel off the ivy, cutting it back as you go. Once it is cut right back, treat the stump and any remaining foliage with a heavy duty tough weedkiller that contains glysophate. Be warned though that this weedkiller will kill off everything it comes in contact with, so you have to be very careful not to get it onto anything you want to keep. After the ivy has been killed off, you can give the apple a feed with a good general purpose plant food to give it a boost.Answered on 1/8/2005 by Crocus
Displaying questions 1-3
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