Biscuit-orange heads fade to cream echoing late summer - perfect with bleached-canvas grasses like Stipa tenuissima and Hordeum jubatum
- Position: full sun
- Soil: moist, well-drained
- Rate of growth: average
- Flowering period: June to September
- Hardiness: fully hardy
Achilleas are in vogue again, thanks in part to the many different colours and cultivars that have become available in recent years. Achillea was named by Linnaeus, the modern father of horticulture, in honour of the Greek hero Achilles. They are generally short-lived perennials, with flat, plate-like flowerheads held high on tall stems, and ferny foliage beneath. This one has has masses of rich, terracotta flowers that fade to soft yellow in autumn. It is long flowering and drought-tolerant. Try it in a sunny spot towards the back of an herbaceous border, in a border of hot colours or among grasses. The flowerheads contrast well with the spire-like and spiky flowers of salvia, veronicastrum and eryngium (sea holly). It makes an excellent cut flower, too.
- Garden care: Achilleas do not like wet soil. Stake using bamboo canes or brushwood before the flowers appear. Cut down to the ground in late winter, but resist the urge to do this earlier, as the seed heads look lovely in the winter light. Pull out seedlings as they appear, as they rarely match the parent plant. Lift and divide large clumps in late autumn or early spring.
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Q:Advice re numbers please!
Hello I have an L shaped area of about 2 square metres to fill and would like colour. The area is sunny and well drained. The plants I am thinking of are Coreopsis verticillata 'Moonbeam', Hemerocallis 'Stella De Oro' and Achillea 'Terracotta'. I have often read that when planting you should plant in groups of 3 but also see that some of these plants should spread to 45 cm. Given the space I have to fill, should I choose 3 of each of these to ensure I have a good show of colour, or start off with one each in the knowledge they will eventually spread? All advice very much appreciated. BevAsked on 7/6/2009 by Bev Rawson
A:Hello There, It really depends on how patient you are! I would plant 3 of each as this will ensure a reasonably full display quite quickly and it will also make sure there are no gaps when they all grow together.Answered on 7/8/2009 by Crocus Helpdesk
Q:Which plants are Deer proof?
I want a list of Deer proof plants please. It`s either a change in habitat or environment, but I get total devastation now and in the last two years they come up the drive.Asked on 2/3/2006 by david
A:Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful, but it is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual tastes which might like the bitter taste! Below is a list of good plants that generally are quite successful though. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Elaeagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally, fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer eat roses and some thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly will exclude them. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.Answered on 2/6/2006 by Crocus
Q:What can we grow in our dry, sunny border?
I have a sunny and very dry border up against the front of the house. It is about 14 inches wide but protected by the house from receiving hardly any rain. Because of the window any plants must be less than 1m high. We have considered lavender but would really appreciate any other suggestions.Asked on 5/8/2005 by Carl and Deirdre Leaman
A:There are some lovely plants (including the lavenders) that will thrive in a dry, sunny spot, but it will be important that they are kept really well watered for the first year or so until they have had a chance to become established. Below are some of the ones we sell, just click on the link below each plant name to find out more about that particular one. Convolvulus cneorum http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?ContentType=Plant_Card&ClassID=940&CategoryID= Cistus http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?CommonName=Cistus&x=5&y=8 Santolina chamaecyparissus Nana http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?ContentType=Plant_Card&ClassID=4359&CategoryID= Lavender http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?CommonName=Lavandula&x=10&y=9 Achillea http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?CommonName=Achillea&x=11&y=7 Echinops http://www.crocus.co.uk/findplant/results/?CommonName=echinops+ritroAnswered on 5/9/2005 by Crocus
Q:What can I plant that the deers won't eat?
What types of plants do deer not like? If you could help me out I could greatly appreciate it.Asked on 3/18/2005 by Kelly L. Sliker
A:Deer can be a real problem and deer proof plants are usually thorny, poisonous or simply taste awful. It is hard to give a definitive list as you might get the odd deer with unusual taste which might like a bitter taste, but the following is a list of plants that generally are quite successful. Cornus varieties, Rhus, Sophora, Solanum, Berberis, Rosemary, Buxus, Cotoneaster, Ilex, Pyracantha, Garrya, Juniperus, Nandina, Eleagnus, Aralia, Aucuba, Cortaderia, Yucca, Santolina, Hypericum, Myrtle, Vinca, Achillea, Digitalis, Echinacea and Dryopteris. Finally fencing is one method to protect garden crops from deer. Since deer jump, you need an 8-foot fence for best results or stout chicken-wire fencing securely around smaller garden plots. Alternatively, fence the area with a thorny shrub, preferably something that will grow to at least 6 feet. Deer do eat roses and some other thorns but hawthorn, boxwood and holly tend to keep them out. Deer are also deterred by dogs, hanging aluminum foil, mirrors, wood that hits objects in the wind and other noise-makers. Some old-fashioned repellents are human hair and blood and bonemeal. Hanging bars of fragrant deodorant soap from branches may work. Other well-known deer repellents are mothballs or moth flakes spread on the ground or put in mesh bags for hanging in a tree. Unfortunately though, no repellent is 100 percent effective, especially if the deer population is high and deer are starving.Answered on 3/21/2005 by Crocus
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